Thanks for the responses. Oddly I got one off Ebay, it was too cheap to be true, and it is a bad China copy. I knew better but thought since it was in Jersey, and not Cali, maybe it was someone clearing stock. The studs for the electrical were not even threaded. New one is now on order direct from Carter.  The knock off stuff has been bad, but seems to be at all new levels recently.

My manual fuel pump, with less than 5 hours, decided to crap out on my 445. I used one of the Carter P4600HP pumps on a GM 383 build I recently did. While I have not put that motor through its paces, the pump seems to be ok at steady speed or quick zips. It is a little loud but not once the motor fires you can't hear it. Overall, I have had no complaints on that one.

My question, assuming 3/8 lines, should this be enough to feed a solid 500Hp/550Tq FE? Running a single 750 Vacuum secondary.  This FE is a bit more healthy than the 383.
Anyone run one, good, bad, ugly? Based on the specs I think I am fine. I deadheaded the GM, and likely will do the same on this one for now.
   

You sure there is not a resistor down stream you are bypassing in your testing? Seems I remember old Fords did things like this.....if bench testing all parts I could see that being an issue.

I have the book(great stuff) but for this purpose would still recommend the RPM over the Perf. 390. I ran both on my Highboy. D2 heads, long tubes, Comp Cam Xtreme Energy 218/224 Hydraulic Flat Tappet. I ran both 650 and 750 carbs on that rig, with both intakes. At initial tip in throttle, yes the smaller intake did better, the smaller carb...maybe even so marginally.  However, it fell flat quickly vs. comparing to the RPM intake. Granted those trucks run 4:10 gear and most of the time you are never under 2,000 RPM. Plus, more was done than stock engine.
My point being that drivability encompasses the whole set up and performance will vary depending on the entire picture. In this case I would say the gear ratio/operating range favor the RPM Intake. Pretty easy to tell and feel when we did our little 0-60 shoot outs.  Based on all of that it was RPM and 750VS.
Sad that a 1975  FE pulled a camper and ATV notably better than a 2003 F250 V10. Stopping, well that was a win to the 2003 model 

I am late to the party but here is my guess:

Transmission- $2,500 if a shop $1,000 if you do it and no crazy issues involved.
T-Case- $750-$1000 Shop, $400 you do it
Motor- $7,800 stockish rebuild add $800 if you go roller set up. At a shop. At home maybe shave $2,000 off that. Depends on parts, and head work, etc. A lot of variables.

I can tell you I just build a 383 SBC with Aluminum upper end with roller cam and lifters and I am +$7,500 in it with me doing the work. That was late 2023 early 2024.  That is Carb to oil pan.

Sent you a PM

Is the block plate installed? There should not be any shimming needed and Rob Mc Stuff fits good and as the FE Block plate is what aligns the starter.

Holley 750 Vacuum Second. List 80508S. I converted it from a meter plate to screw in jets. Stock 72 in front, rear is 77.
445 Stroker, RPM intake, custom Lykins Roller Cam and BBM heads.

I have not ran the truck down the road at speed but I have ran it a lot moving it, letting it run etc. It runs fine as far the how.....however, the emissions are obnoxious! Very very strong which indicates to me it is lean at idle. Again, runs fine, wraps up fine(no load), in temp range, no issues but terrible eye burning smell.
Adjusted with in specs etc.....think I am at 1.75 turns out maybe 2. Secondaries are closed as they should be.

Question: Is there any reason it would be running so lean? Without checking with 02 it is a guess but when I say she will burn your eyes, I mean it. Seems I remember something about these not being the best out of the box and needed some help. Anyway, just want to ask in case others have ran into similar.