1
FE Technical Forum / Re: Speedmaster latest theft of property video
« on: April 12, 2024, 08:59:36 AM »
Wow. Great share.....hope this gets seen far and wide.
Dedicated to Building and Racing the Ford FE Engine
News:
SMF - Just Installed!
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
2
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 F250 Highboy 460 Engine Swap from FE
« on: April 02, 2024, 08:31:01 AM »
That was then....circa 2015. You are correct though, you will not find them that cheap anymore.....maybe I should adjust my number for inflation....double all of it LOL.
3
FE Technical Forum / Re: 69 F250 Highboy 460 Engine Swap from FE
« on: April 01, 2024, 09:02:12 AM »
I would really lay it out on paper unless you simply want the 460 combo. Parts and machine work are not vastly different but the 460 parts will be cheaper in the end. Machine work, no. However, what is saved will be spent with more labor and money to do a conversion. L and L is the go to for this one. Fender exit headers, mounts, and likely a crossmember, and drive shaft changes...one or all three depending on the combo. Do what makes you happy but trust me on putting all options down on paper.
To give you and idea on my 75 F250 4x4 I have about $9,000 in going to a 445 FE. That is me doing all the assembly. Now it is a nice 445, BBM heads, roller, etc. I also have about a grand in doing the C6 rebuild. I am ok with it now, but for a long time I had wished I had done an LS swap.....go ahead, burn away, but $1,000 for a motor and transmission, about another $1,500 for the rest, and get likely another 75K out of that used motor, have overdrive, and fuel injection.........staying Ford loyal was not too wise money speaking.....but it is "original". Enjoy the project!
To give you and idea on my 75 F250 4x4 I have about $9,000 in going to a 445 FE. That is me doing all the assembly. Now it is a nice 445, BBM heads, roller, etc. I also have about a grand in doing the C6 rebuild. I am ok with it now, but for a long time I had wished I had done an LS swap.....go ahead, burn away, but $1,000 for a motor and transmission, about another $1,500 for the rest, and get likely another 75K out of that used motor, have overdrive, and fuel injection.........staying Ford loyal was not too wise money speaking.....but it is "original". Enjoy the project!
4
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: welding helmet mod
« on: February 27, 2024, 09:53:38 AM »
That is smart. Go ahead and mount a headlamp and earbuds in there and you will be in high cotton! Saw a tictok that had a new design with the light built in the helmet...Blue Demon brand helmet I believe. Getting smart and making moves on technology.
5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Time for a new starter - recommendations?
« on: September 12, 2023, 05:08:19 PM »
Rob Mc starter has been good to me.
6
FE Technical Forum / Re: Duraspark, need a resistor or not?
« on: July 20, 2023, 11:07:24 AM »
Chuck is right and so is BigBlueIron.
The module does not care. The box and coil does normally. The D2 does use a resistor wire, and a 12v wire for cranking only, and a different coil. Most aftermarket boxes, HEI, or stand alone(Pertronix) require a 12V coil and 12V full switched power to operate correctly. Good grounds are a must too.
The module does not care. The box and coil does normally. The D2 does use a resistor wire, and a 12v wire for cranking only, and a different coil. Most aftermarket boxes, HEI, or stand alone(Pertronix) require a 12V coil and 12V full switched power to operate correctly. Good grounds are a must too.
7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Accessory Spacing Issue
« on: May 16, 2023, 11:02:28 AM »
Sorry for the slow response, it has been a hectic week or so. The power steering pump is the same that has always been with the truck. Same bracket as well. None of that has changed.
I did get a new water pump during the build.....supposed to be for the truck. Same pump pulley that came with the truck. Alt spacing etc. is good...i.e. how it is "supposed" to be.
I will try to snap a picture. It is hard to see in a pic I am sure, but stands out bad in person. I had only run the motor on the dyno. Noticed belt interference when I put the ALT on. Did some grinding on the H20 pump body for some clearance.....which I knew I should not have to do. It seems in line, just an issue with hitting the pump body.
The PS Pump you can easily see it is not inline pulley groove wise, but nothing has changed with it. Bracket is right, all is right unless my thinking is wrong. I definitely don't recall any spacer for it....direct mount to H20 Pump and block with AC Bracket on. I did delete the AC for now but the Compressor bracket is there as it should be. Only the tensioner is removed.
I did get a new water pump during the build.....supposed to be for the truck. Same pump pulley that came with the truck. Alt spacing etc. is good...i.e. how it is "supposed" to be.
I will try to snap a picture. It is hard to see in a pic I am sure, but stands out bad in person. I had only run the motor on the dyno. Noticed belt interference when I put the ALT on. Did some grinding on the H20 pump body for some clearance.....which I knew I should not have to do. It seems in line, just an issue with hitting the pump body.
The PS Pump you can easily see it is not inline pulley groove wise, but nothing has changed with it. Bracket is right, all is right unless my thinking is wrong. I definitely don't recall any spacer for it....direct mount to H20 Pump and block with AC Bracket on. I did delete the AC for now but the Compressor bracket is there as it should be. Only the tensioner is removed.
8
FE Technical Forum / Accessory Spacing Issue
« on: May 05, 2023, 11:33:00 AM »
Am I missing something? Were there different water pumps offered for FE's? I am seeing a pulley spacing issue and I do not suspect it is the BBM heads....that would not cause what I am seeing. 75 Ford F250. ALT belt is rubbing on the water pump, and the PS pump/pulley is forward from where it should be. I ask because the only impacting changes has been the water pump and heads. Rest is original to the truck prior to build and it was perfect......it is all together right and where it is supposed to be.....except it aint.
9
Member Projects / Re: 75 4x4
« on: September 13, 2022, 10:46:23 AM »
Not that I am Johnny on the spot for keeping up on the forum, but I made those mistakes when I built mine and it cost me a good bit of time, and some $$. You live you learn but if I can help prevent something like that for someone else, I will. All in all it cut my dyno day short via a sticking lifter....found out later all the mistakes that I made. I own it. Could have been much much worse and all it cost me was a re-bearing really. Good luck and if you have a question ask it...the forum is good!
10
Member Projects / Re: 75 4x4
« on: September 06, 2022, 11:17:17 AM »
Check the cam bolt size and use the correct cam gear/dizzy gear depth spacing. If you went with a custom roller cam, the cores will sometimes have a different thread pitch on the timing gear bolt. If memory serves 7/16-14 vs 7/16-20. Dizzy gear has to be for the billet core and set at proper depth...don't trust your eyes/the holes..measure it. Just one of the many checks on the list before the first fire.
I took mine to a dyno and I feel it was worth it....definitely fun.
I took mine to a dyno and I feel it was worth it....definitely fun.
11
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Thread repair in aluminum
« on: July 19, 2022, 11:15:54 AM »
I like that guys channel. That was good video. Thanks for sharing.
12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Dana 44 front axle
« on: July 12, 2022, 04:44:58 PM »
One thing to keep in mind as you may know there were many different Ford Dana 44 variations. You may wish to stick with 78 or up as you noted for Ford stuff. The breakover year for Highboys had an open knuckle HD 44 but I highly doubt those parts will fit your 1/2 ton knuckles. I know none of the closed knuckle parts will...at least most likely. The HD 44 had larger spindles, hubs etc. I sourced one from an older GM for my highboy and it was pricey! Point being you may find the parts for the open knuckle, but you may need the knuckle out, not just stubs, spindles, hubs. You also may have issues with spline count on the carrier...
However, if the newer open knuckle designs of GM/Dodge are like some of the older closed knuckle stuff you likely can source from there. Finding info is your friend as spindles and hubs get pricey fast. I seem to remember there were old articles of doing this conversion and the parts needed back years ago. It was not uncommon. I don't have info on that since I did not need it. Just recall seeing it.
Some things to consider:
It may be easier to source an entire front end. 2005 Super Duty's come to mind, but then you have metric vs. standard wheel patterns.
It may be cheaper to get custom axles with your half ton pattern for the rear, and upgrade axle shafts for the front and just run it.
This may help....the chebby is about the big hubs, but that forum may have more info.
https://torqueking.com/
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=22710.0
http://www.stangerssite.com/steeringsysteminfo.html
Dana/Spicer at one time had parts breakdowns, instructions, i.d. info etc. on the web but it seems that link I have is no longer valid. It would have helped a lot.
However, if the newer open knuckle designs of GM/Dodge are like some of the older closed knuckle stuff you likely can source from there. Finding info is your friend as spindles and hubs get pricey fast. I seem to remember there were old articles of doing this conversion and the parts needed back years ago. It was not uncommon. I don't have info on that since I did not need it. Just recall seeing it.
Some things to consider:
It may be easier to source an entire front end. 2005 Super Duty's come to mind, but then you have metric vs. standard wheel patterns.
It may be cheaper to get custom axles with your half ton pattern for the rear, and upgrade axle shafts for the front and just run it.
This may help....the chebby is about the big hubs, but that forum may have more info.
https://torqueking.com/
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=22710.0
http://www.stangerssite.com/steeringsysteminfo.html
Dana/Spicer at one time had parts breakdowns, instructions, i.d. info etc. on the web but it seems that link I have is no longer valid. It would have helped a lot.
13
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 been sitting
« on: June 30, 2022, 03:56:51 PM »
If you are getting power to the dizzy and coil, and it is correct....meaning somehow the power simply is not traveling to the plug, then I would verify the rotor and cap are correct for the application, and eliminate that rotating "switch" of power. as the cause. I would also verify the timing of the rotor related to the cap, or the trigger to the rotor. Anything that would make power move, but not at the correct point in time and hence not making it to the plugs. You may even verify the the rotor turns when the starter is keyed(making sure the cam and dizzy gears are doing their thing). Easy enough to make sure the engine ground to frame is good while you are there as well. I doubt all 8 plugs and/or wires are bad.
You are getting there, just step back and pause and don't get frustrated.
You are getting there, just step back and pause and don't get frustrated.
14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: repaint over clear/base coat
« on: June 07, 2022, 01:31:53 PM »
Thanks Greg.
15
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: repaint over clear/base coat
« on: June 07, 2022, 11:24:51 AM »
Not to hijack a thread but it is not often paint work comes up. My '03 Super Duty has a clear coat problem. All of the hood/roof has lifted and gone, and now a bed side is starting.
Would sanding the clear off/back to clear that is still "stuck", then seal, prime, paint/clear work? I have just wondered how to approach this issue....lifting due to age, and sun.
Would sanding the clear off/back to clear that is still "stuck", then seal, prime, paint/clear work? I have just wondered how to approach this issue....lifting due to age, and sun.