I bought a motor/trans combo in hopes of good block/rotating parts etc...most of it I do not need.

Transmission seems to be all there, dirty, but not too bad at all considering the age.  Code is PFB-A with short tail shaft, flange style yoke. Aluminum case and bell, cast center section for an FE. Has cover, and TQ converter, all parts seem to be there, even the funky side cooler or what ever that is.  Kind of neat as I have not seen one of these.  Sold as core, as is where is, $150 o.b.o you tell me?

Will likely have a set of 68 FE heads, 2v cast intake, carb, and other odds and ends that was bolted to it. I have to tear into it to confirm exactly what it is, it was rebuilt at some point as it has tag on the side stating as such....loving the boat plug type freeze plugs HAHA....odds are it is a 352 from the era as all of it fits the story, came out of an old truck, said it was a 390, info points to a 352 yada yada you all know the story.  It is all there though which is not common around here and it was cheap so I made the gamble.

Also, I still have a like new Canton FE 4x4 oil pan with pickup. Someone buy this thing. Has 8 dyno pulls on it. Black in color.  Otherwise it will end up getting customized....hate to butcher a new pan but will if it does not sell.

Anyway, before scrapping things out and knowing things are hard to find, I wanted to give the opportunity out here. If you are interested in anything let me know. Open to offers/trades, ship on your dime if you want it, but definitely prefer local pick up. Central, Arkansas.
You can PM and we can work off text for pics etc.  I will likely start the motor tear down next week.

Will consider trades: Interested in Streetmaster, Victor, or RPM intake, ....aftermarket rocker stands/end supports, new rocker shafts or if anyone has some Morel rollers they want to part with...plus boot money on my end if needed. Just throwing that out there.

Thanks for looking.

Yes this waaaay off topic but I know there are some pretty smart folks on here, and maybe this will be a thread with a lot of info/learning. Or it may die in the interwebs hahaha.

Motor: Suzuki Outboard DT25 Horse Power circa 1990 (3 cylinders) 3 Carburetors
Ignition: CDi with Rev Limiter and electronic Throttle Position Sensor to control timing

I am wanting to build a hot little two stroke out of this outboard, assuming I can.  However, I am going to hit a wall with the rev. limiter.  The rev limiter is built into the cdi unit and is around 5700-6000 rpm.  Porting and modifications really predict the need to turn the motor to a higher RPM beyond this to get max gains and meet my goal(6,500-7,000).  There used to be a company that could "crack" the rev limiter but many times it resulted in killing the CDI unit....it is potted and I suspect that removing the potting was the risky part. That company no longer exists and cdi units are obsolete.  In short, the rev. limiter is the wall and will negate any port work.  I can make it faster, but not as fast as wanted due to this.

As I am told(some I know) the design is 3 points under the flywheel(triggers), a TPS on the center carb that shows reduced voltage.  The cdi handles the charge, but the voltage from the TPS handles the timing, to a point. TPS spec is .47-.5 volts at idle and above 2.7 at full throttle.  Since bypassing the rev limiter is a risky ordeal, if even possible, I am wondering IF, or HOW one may could build a system around what is in place.  Online there are plenty of cdi units, but very few operate on a 3 cylinder design.

Just curious as to how to approach eliminating the OEM and building something that would work.  I estimate timing needs to be 2.5/5 degrees at idle and 27 ish at top end.  Since it seems much like a car, and I know many have done things for FI etc. on this forum, why not ask. 
I did have the thought to take a design from say a Yamaha and see if I could adapt it, and eliminate the TPS all together and use manual timing events. Limitations on that route would be the crank end, flywheel differences, fab work, and most likely not possible. Ideally an electron bolt, or possibly programable solution would be best.  The items are in place, but I have no clue on what is available.  Cost is somewhat a factor as it would be irrational to sink $1000 into it. A few hundred however is easily doable.

On one hand it makes for a performance modification, on the other it opens the window to fill a gap in an obsolete part. Plenty of these motors running around and they are sought after due to restrictions on state owned lands etc. As always, we like to go faster and push limits.

Open to ideas and opinions.....something different for the forum but in my opinion a good test/project.

It pertains to an FE, and others as well. Just pondering....

The engine compartment on my old truck is "busy" to say the least.  Looking at vacuum lines, I had the hypothetical thought of running one line from the intake and running a distribution block to feed all the items requiring vacuum.   In my instance, we have the C6 modulator line, heater controls, a low vacuum switch.  The intake has a standard OEM large bore T with ports off of it.  Does not make sense to do for only eliminating 2 lines but just thinking on the subject. 
I searched for info on the subject and found nothing.
If doing something such as this what should be taken into account: What effects could be had, and what about line size.  I would assume no effect if you fed the block with the same size line, and kept the sizes the same but found 0 info on the effects of line size on vacuum.
Maybe I am missing something.....I know the "pull" does not change but changes in line size effect volume and wonder the effects of that.  Just seems that there is not much info on it, at least that I found.


Certainly wish there was a way to clean up the wiring and vacuum lines and get them "away" from the motor so you see a nice clean intake/carb and no wiring. Be nice to see some pics as to what others have done in the engine bays to clean it up.  Most all of them run the same...temp, oil, coil, wiring....

I have never had to do this, so all new.  Large brass OEM style radiator for my F-250. Has been out and drained for a few years, was new when it went in. Piecing the truck back together and ready to install the radiator but noticed there are white "growths" inside it. Not typical build up, I am guessing it may be like calcium.  Looks almost like tiny little plants growing inside it, multiple "strings" at the top that work their way up in the air. Obvious they would break off if I shot water in there. Just seems odd but I guess that is what happens. Should have ran water through it before storing it.

What is a good, or best, way to clean it prior to install?

Running Morel rollers and OEM non-Adjustables. Was sent some push rods that are set up for oiling(hole in the ball ends). Heads are not restricted (BBM). How big of an over oiling issue is this? Is there a "fix" besides new pushrods that will be easy/reliable. Tia.

Few questions as I am preparing to finally drop the 445 back in the old truck.

Anyone running BBM heads(or similar) and headers in a 3/4 Ton 73-77 F250 4x4? Wondering if I am going to run into issue for certain. It was tight in stock form and just wondering if with the change to modern heads if I will have any surprises.  Looking at it, I do not see a major problem at the point(engine stand), but we know how things can change.

Header and Port mismatch. In a perfect world I know the match would be precise and if any mismatch it would be with the exhaust port being smaller than the header tube/flange opening.
So, what negative effects would one see if there was a minor mismatch with the head port being larger than the header? Is minor mismatch, 1/16 per side acceptable, 3/32 on the top..etc.??
What would be the limit...would like some feed back/input.  Again, I know it is perfect but is this a common reality and not a huge problem? I feel this is one thing that does not get checked by the majority and so many variables that there is a lot of this but we just do "see" it.   

Looking at the Heddmans I have and they are close but not perfect and there will be a "wall" the exhaust will hit. Concern is constantly fighting leaks or burning up a surface.  Really not wanting to drop the coin on custom headers or hit more delays on cutting/welding flanges unless it is a must.   

The truck has an stout FE on the stand...does that count? 

I am going to be converting my 4x4 to a more modern steering. Before doing so I want to sell the parts.  If there is any interest, please PM me.

I figure one of your guys/gals may have a project in the works.  Will likely post it on some other Ford sites but wanted to put it here first if allowed.

What it is:

1975 F250 Factory Power Steering-Bendix Type.

Both major hydraulic parts came from Red Head Steering-6 years old but less than 2,000 miles. 

Bendix Control Valve: Little Surface rust from the clip being off for two months....easy to clean-touch up paint. Like new otherwise.

Hoses as shown-Included.

Ford Hydraulic Ram-for above application.

These should be bolt on and go....no work needed other than to purge the air, clean and maybe touch up paint to your liking.
All the mechanical parts were ordered and installed at one time. The truck has set for the past 3 years but no signs of leaks or issues. They just need the road grime knocked off and painted. 

Refurbished from Red Head the control valve is $496 plus core, the Ram $346 plus core.  Would prefer to sell all parts as one, but may split if need be.  The steering box and pitman arm can be added to the equation to sweeten the deal but the box could use some tlc.

Make an offer, may be open to trades in streetmaster, rpm intake, heads, for another project, equal value or plus boot.

Sorry it took so long to get the pics added.