I run an NTK unit in my Comet. It has worked well even though I was running leaded race gas. I would recalibrate it each spring and was good to go. I did put a new sensor in 2 years ago when I switched to E85. The only downfall is this is a digital readout and the display can be hard to read on bright days.  It also has a 0-5v output so I can tie it into my data logger. Jim

So as discussed in a prior thread, I am running a lot of spring pressure. About 650 open. This 416ci motor goes through the traps at 6900rpms. The motor has been running very well. This fall when I put it away for the winter, I was wondering if I should pull the T&D rockers and Crower lifters and send them in for inspection. They will have about 80 passes on them at that point. How often should I have them inspected if I am not having any issues? Thanks Jim

I run Amsoil Dominator and have not seen that but, I do run a pair of Jays clear valve covers and was shocked at the amount of moisture in the motor after start up after is sits for a week. I am now installing an evap system to pull vacuum out and hopefully avoid the milk in the valve covers. Just to reiterate the oil on the dipstick has always been clear and looks moisture free. Jim

I have about $2000 dollars in the complete setup. That includes the carb, fuel pump, regulator and new 10an fittings and lines front to rear. That is about 2 years worth of fuel if I was buying race gas here in Minnesota. I can buy E85 anywhere in Minnesota for $2.50 a gallon. It is a long term investment but now I don't have to buy and store barrels of race gas. As far as maintenance goes, I add Lucas oil E85 stabilizer to the tank if the car will sit. If the car is going to sit for more than a couple weeks I drain my carb bowls. I have a plastic fuel cell and use aluminum lines with Aeroquip Starlite hose and have had no issues so far. As I understand, E85 isn't corrosive like Methanol but does hold moisture hence the E85 stabilizer when the car is going to sit. Time will tell. Jim

A year and a half ago my 416FE dropped a valve forcing a rebuild and 3 sleeves. Up to that time my best ET was 10.70 @125mph. To do this I had been spinning the motor to 7500rpm's or more through the traps running 4.71 gears and a rollerized C6 trans and aluminum driveshaft. When I did the rebuild I found the distributor drive gear on the cam was trashed most likely due to me installing my distributor gear wrong. I decided to lower my rpm's through the traps after the rebuild in hopes of not breaking any more tool steel retainers (which I had broken 2) and dropping more valves. First I switched to 4.10 gears. I then was able to purchase a Powerglide trans with a brake to replace the C6. The Powerglide is shorter than the C6 so in talking with PST drivetrain they said to avoid driveshaft issues, I should switch to a carbon fiber shaft. I had Neal Chance do a converter to fit the swap. I had Lykins spec a cam which peaked at 6300 rpms which has me shifting at 6500 and I now go through the traps at 6900 rpms. Previous hp with on the original build was 605hp. With the new cam the motor came in at 540hp. So with all these changes I ended up running 10.70's at 126mph last weekend. I did go from 1.45 60ft times with the original set up to 1.58 60ft with the new. The new lighter drivetrain is allowing the car to make up the difference on the top end. Jim

If it has sat for a long period, I have seen gasket shrinkage cause issues. I would pull the bowls and blocks and look for anything obvious. Cheapest and easiest place to start along with fresh gas. Jim

This is what happened when I had too much lash. I now lash on the tight side. Jim

I don't have an extra distributor. I do have a new MSD pickup I could change in if needed. With 13 to 1 compression I am surprised my stock starter has never struggled. Must be the good battery and 0/1 cables. Jim