Thanks everyone. I do have some EZloks. I think I will do like you said on an old post and use an old shaft and pedestals to make jig to accurately drill the new larger holes. I found some 3/4 inch long inserts so they will have thread engagement the whole length of the hole in the head. Thanks, Jim

Hey guys, what's the max spring pressure you would run with T&D street rocker set up in aluminum Edelbrock heads. I am set up for 650lbs over the nose. Should I consider putting in time-serts while the heads are off? T&D said it would be no problem, but I worry about pulling a stud out of the head. That's the problem with machining taking too long, it gives a guy time to worry about stuff instead of slapping it together and just running it!!!! Jim

I have Edelbrock's with 56cc chambers. I am going to run E85, so running the .045 Cometic MLS head gasket would give me a little more compression. If you suspect I would see piston to head contact with .036-.037 clearance I would just get the .051. I wish they made a .048. Jim

Thats what R&R suggested also. Thanks, Jim

Thanks for the responses.  I'm going to move forward with it. Now hopefully my 2 Molnar rods  rods I am getting are close to the same weight as the old molnar rods so I don't have to rebalance.

Hey guys, as I get closer to 60 I am getting a propensity to create more humidity (sweaty). I was having a problem with my mask fogging in both summer and winter as my shop is kept at 50deg. I didn't want to run a fan as that interferes with my shielding gas. So I drilled a hole in the top of my mask and mounted a low voltage computer fan in it. I run it off a 9v battery which lasts quite a while. I put some ducting in to direct the air flow over the inside screen. There is an on off switch on the outside of the mask. It is quiet and effective and really helps me see my puddle without stopping to clear out the fog inside my mask. Just thought I would share. Jim

I called Molnar to get some specs for when I reassemble my short block. In the conversation I asked about what lube to use on the ARP 2000 rod bolts that are in their rods I have. He stated that while working at Oliver they discovered that the ARP lube had a lower and lower release torque after torqueing, unbolting and then retorqueing the bolts. He state bolt stretch was always consistent but the ARP lube caused a lower release torque number. He recommended I use an EP#3 grease as it will dissolve and maintain a higher release torque. He said with ARP lube the bolts kind of smoothly glided loose when taking them apart and with the EP#3 grease they would "snap" at first when loosening them. I don't mean the bolt would snap/break, but they found they would have a much more consistent release torque. Remember, I am just a knucklehead hobbyist trying to paraphrase and pass on what I think may be good info to help others. I have built a number of motors in the past using ARP lube on their bolts and never had a failure so I assume the info I got from Molnar is geared for high end severe use race motors. If any of you use EP#3 lube for your rod bolts, do you have a recommendation? Thank, Jim