Hey guys, what's the max spring pressure you would run with T&D street rocker set up in aluminum Edelbrock heads. I am set up for 650lbs over the nose. Should I consider putting in time-serts while the heads are off? T&D said it would be no problem, but I worry about pulling a stud out of the head. That's the problem with machining taking too long, it gives a guy time to worry about stuff instead of slapping it together and just running it!!!! Jim

Just got a call from my machinist and he said I have a small crack in my mirror 105 390 block. As the picture shows it runs from the head bolt hole to the water passage. This is a block that has been very meticulously machined and I would hate to have to start over. I am using head studs and MLS Cometic gaskets if that makes a difference. I am expecting the motor to make near 600hp so the block will live a harsh life. Thoughts on running it, or start over? Jim

I have both Jays aluminum and clear valve covers. I had issues adding oil, especially on the aluminum ones as it took forever to get past the baffle. Anyway, I use Amsoil Dominator oil and found that if you cut the bottom off an empty it screws perfectly into the valve cover as a funnel making it really easy to fill oil.  Jim

Last summer my 416 dropped a valve. So I am having 2 sleeves installed and getting 2 new pistons. Here is my question? I ordered 2 new Mahle pistons of the exact same part number as what is/was in the motor. Do I need to rebalance the motor? This motor was going through the traps at 7400rmps. I am going to limit it to 7000 now with the new rebuild. I can weight match 1 of the pistons, but due to the other having a hole in it, I cannot weight match that one. Thanks for your thought. Jim

I would be willing to take $3000 for this. I need the room in my shop. A lot of good parts here for the money. Jim

This is my old bracket 390 that ran high 12's w/full exhaust and low 12's w/open headers in my 1966 Comet. I pulled the motor in 2006 when I switched to my 416FE. This is a non ribbed block but has been zero decked, align honed mains, ARP main studs Motorsports windage tray and 7qt Milodon oil pan. The rods are factory resized with ARP bolts. It has .030 forged 2291 pistons and the rotating assembly has been balanced. It has a new 9 position timing set, Melling hv oil pump with Motorsports HD pump drive shaft. I installed new Sealed power main bearings and King rod bearings along with Sealed power moly rings on the pistons. The machine work was done by Jax Specialty engines in Hamel MN. The cam is an Erson Hi flow solid flat tappet with 242/246 duration @.050 with .595 lift. I have the matching lifters boxed in order as I took them out so there should be no issue with cam failures. The top end is C8AE-H heads ported by me. They have 2.09/1.65 stainless valves, Isky springs (130lb seat/340lb open) Comp spring cups, retainers and keepers. Valve seals are pc style. Jax cut the heads to have 58cc chambers so this combo works out to have 12 to 1 compression. The valve train consists of Comp rockers, Harland Sharp hd shafts, pump builders stands, ARP shaft studs and Smith Brothers push rods. I have new Felpro 1020 head gaskets, ARP head bolts and SCE intake gaskets to bolt the top end on. The intake is an Edelbrock Performer RPM that is port matched to the heads and the plenum is cut down 1 inch. I would like $3500.00 for everything. This top end would be perfect to bolt onto a 70's low compression 390 motor to wake it up. I am in the Twin Cities area and would be willing to meet in the 5 state area. Thanks, Jim

Unfortunately I broke another valve spring retainer, this time on number 8 intake and dropped a valve on my 390 block. The block has been zero decked. Will they be able to install the sleeve and trim it to zero without taking material off the whole deck? or will they have to take some and I will then have the pistons out of the bore?  Here is before photo.

Hey guys, I am seeing wear on my distributor gear after about 150 passes. The cam in the motor is a Bullit steel solid roller cam and I don't see wear on the cam gears, which is good. But my distributor gear does have quite a bit of wear. This gear is an MSD steel gear on an MSD distributor. I do have a Crane steel gear on the shelf, would you continue to run the MSD for a while or would you switch out to the Crane. My other option would be to get a bronze gear. I appreciate your thoughts. Jim

How timing effects my engine or more importantly doesn't effect the cars performance. As many know I have a BP built 416 with his pro port heads, 850 dp, 12.2 to one compression and his baby roller solid cam (265/272@.050 .540/.525 lift) that made 600hp on Jays dyno. My car is a 3500lb 66 Comet with 4.11 gear, 5000 stall and 28 inch slicks. The car runs great 10.75-10.90 @122 in the quarter. My question is, I have changed the timing from 26deg to 32deg trying to either get closer to 10.50 or 11.0 for index racing at my local track. No matter where the timing is, the ET doesn't change. At least until I tried 25deg and had a bog off the line. What are your opinions on why the timing changes do not move the ET? Could it be the efficient combustion chamber? I think my next try will be a throttle stop. Next year I am going to try 29 inch slicks and see what happens. Also no matter what the timing, my 60 FT times are 1.47-1.49. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim