How to remove Cam retaining plate screws?

[Skeeter65]

How to remove Cam retaining plate screws? I’m tearing down the 390 and I’ve come to the cam retaining plate and need to know what to remove the screws with. They appear to be a large Phillips head screw but I don’t have a Phillips large enough to fit. Can anyone tell me what size bit I would need to take them out? I believe they are original to the motor and don’t believe they have ever been out so they are tight.

Any help would be great.

Thanks,

Jody “SKEETER65”

[Joe-JDC]

#4 Phillips should work.   I put my bit holder in an extension, and gently tap it with a brass hammer.  Should come loose with a normal 3/8" drive ratchet.  Joe-JDC

[C8OZ]

And if you end up tool shopping anyway, most hand impact driver sets come with a #4 and will come in handy for door latch screws, all things motorcycle, etc. (or maybe not...looks like #3 is the standard "large" in those sets)

[Skeeter65]

Thanks guys. I’ll grab a bit this week.

[351crules]

once out .throw them away and get arp replacements

[Skeeter65]

once out .throw them away and get arp replacements

That’s the plan. Thanks

[AlanCasida]

Not pretty but I have used vice grips on them.

[427John]

X2 on the hand impact driver I've used them and it never fails,the hammer smack seats the bit in the screw head and turns it at the same time,genius.I've seen them with both phillips and allen heads,the 64 I was working on today had allen head and they came right out.

[Rory428]

As mentioned, most impact drivers have the correct sized Phillips screw bit, although I have also seen some chewed up screws from Vice Grip removal. I bought the proper sized Phillips socket decades ago, and have never encountered one of the cam retaining screws that would not come out with the proper tool. I use the same tool to torque the factory screws back in. I doubt buying the correct Phillips socket would be as expensive as buying the ARP bolts, plus then you would never have to worry about struggling to remove these screws on the next FE.

[blykins]

I get rid of the phillips head screws pretty quick.  I don't use ARP, but I do use a hex head fastener.  I've found that most aftermarket bolts that go into the lower right hand bolt hole are too long and block off the feed hole to the distributor.  I have bolts that have been shortened for that side. 

I torque them at 55 lb-ft.  Not 100% sure why Ford put a 7/16" fastener there.  Maybe it was because it's at the end of two galleries that are that size, but I don't feel comfortable tightening those bolts to Ford's 8-10 lb-ft spec with the roller cam stuff I use.

[Henrysnephew]

Brent, I'd wager that the thrust plates you're torqueing to 55ft/lbs are steel and not OE iron?  I too overtorque my cam thrust bolts (25ft/lbs) but worry that too much could crack the iron plate at some point.  JMO.  Randy M 

[HarleyJack17]

I have a sack full of Allen head cap  to replace these.....only needed 2 but wound up with a sack in the off chance some one needs a few.

[blykins]

Brent, I'd wager that the thrust plates you're torqueing to 55ft/lbs are steel and not OE iron?  I too overtorque my cam thrust bolts (25ft/lbs) but worry that too much could crack the iron plate at some point.  JMO.  Randy M

I do use steel plates for my roller cams, but I torque the cast ones to the same spec. 

[Skeeter65]

Good to go now. I just ran to my local Napa at lunch and picked up one of their Impact Screwdrivers and I got both screws loosened up. I'll have to pull the cam later this week and hopefully get the rest of it torn apart so I can get the block cleaned and checked for cracks.

Thanks for all the help!

[Gaugster]

Some heat from a propane torch might help. Any chance it would hurt?