Getting ready to pull the trigger on buying G Force 101A

[6667fan]

This decision could have been reached last year prior to face plating my top loader but the price tag scared me. Now having had difficulties at track with the toploader I have to wonder is it worth it to keep trying with it? I know many guys flog ‘em and have no problems but I feel like I’m gambling with it in a way that would not be the case with the 101A.
Anyone here have some experience with them in a street car? Obviously, I’m willing to put up with quite a bit to go quicker at track having already taking a perfectly good toploader and made it less friendly for street use.

Thanks

[gregaba]

I know a guy with 6 or 7 good Jericos. He might sell one of them.
Greg

[machoneman]

Six or seven? What, a former Pro Stock racer?

[6667fan]

I have not ruled out Jericos but it would have to be a DR4-4.

Thanks

[Posi67]

If you go with a G-Force you will most likely need a new driveshaft and possibly other modifications like mount etc.  I'm a Jerico fan in a Ford because it's very similar to a Top Loader and basically a bolt it. I think I had to turn my trans mount backwards or something minor. Also, a DR 4-4 would be nice but nothing wrong with a DR 4 if you can find a good one. Try find one with Road Race sliders and you'll be able to downshift.

Not sure if G-Force does this but if you call Jerico with a serial number they can usually tell you a lot about te trans you're looking at and possibly history. You'll love either though at least at the track. 

[Rory428]

I ran the older style Jerico DR4s in my Fairmont and 85 Mustang for 20 years , and I would still have the same Jericos, had Jerico made the wise (?) decision to deem the DR4 "obsolete", and chose to not supply replacement parts for them. I broke a mainshaft in the Fairmonts Jerico, and when I called Jerico to order a new one, thats when they said they were no longer going to make any parts for them. I was lucky that a buddy had an extra mainshaft, but Jericos decision to turn their back on all the racers who were using their products, I figured I would buy a G Force G101A, rather than reward Jerico by buying a DR4-4. Naturally, shortly after selling both Jericos, they changed their mind, and started making DR4 parts again!  I did have to make a few changes to the car when I installed the G101A, like Dale said, I needed a new driveshaft, as the GForce was about 2 inches shorter than the Jerico (same 32 spline output spline though). Also, unlike the Jerico, the G101A has just the GM trans mount pattern and position, so I had to modify my trans crossmember, as well, unlike the Jerico, which had multiple shifter bolt holes to move the shifter position, the G101A has a single MoPar style shifter mounting provision. So to locate the shifter where I wanted it, I had to order a different shifter mounting plate and rods from Long shifters, which is part of G Force.  Both my Jericos and the G Force had similar gear ratios, so performance didn`t change, the G Force seems easier to shift, but that may be due to my G Force has the later "Pistol Grip" shifter, where both the Jericos had the older style Verti Gate shifters. The G Force is a bit heavier than the Jerico, as well as having a slightly taller main case. I do like the fact that the G 101A has a "handcuff" to help keep the main and cluster shafts from spreading apart, especially in 3rd gear. I am very happy with the G Force, but if the parts problem never happened, I would have kept the Jericos.

[JERICOGTX]

Rory, Jerico is now making parts for the older DR4's. I broke first gear in mine this last year, and had no problem getting a new gear. My DR4 is 20 years old now, and is the old style TOP/Bottom loader.

[6667fan]

Rory, the comparisons between the two transmissions is very helpful. The handcuff on the G101A is what drew me to it. Some of the “make it work” items are a concern however. I don’t plunk down 5K on anything so need to get this right the first time,(hopefully). It is good to hear for all the DR-4 guys that Jerico is making parts.
Dale, thanks also.

[cjshaker]

If you go with a G-Force you will most likely need a new driveshaft and possibly other modifications like mount etc.  I'm a Jerico fan in a Ford because it's very similar to a Top Loader and basically a bolt it. I think I had to turn my trans mount backwards or something minor. Also, a DR 4-4 would be nice but nothing wrong with a DR 4 if you can find a good one. Try find one with Road Race sliders and you'll be able to downshift.

Not sure if G-Force does this but if you call Jerico with a serial number they can usually tell you a lot about te trans you're looking at and possibly history. You'll love either though at least at the track.

Same here on going with the Jerico over the G-Force. I wanted something that could retain all the parts I had (Mark Williams driveshaft and stock crossmember). My Jerico has the clutch assisted sliders (not road race) and Vertigate shifter, and I can downshift on the street. It's not the smoothest downshift, but it goes into gear solidly if you rev match. I think the pistol grip would be easier to downshift because you don't have to reach over the shifter to pull up on the gate lever, but mine works for me. I love shifting at the track with the Vertigate, but I can't compare it to the pistol grip because I've never used one.

Either way you go, you will have to cut a bigger hole for the shifter. I posted about my Jerico installation in my Mach 1, so that may show you a couple of the changes you might have to make (link here if you want to check it out... http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=1803.75 ). I also had to notch my tran tunnel crossmember to make room for the straight shifter rods for the V-gate. Not sure if it's necessary on a Fairlane, but I would expect that it's pretty close.

I bought a used DR4-4 because of the lack of parts for the DR4, but wasn't aware of their change of heart on producing parts. I had the opportunity to buy a used DR4 at the same time, for a better price, and wish I had now, just as a back-up to the -4.

You will love it at the track.

[Rory428]

Rory, Jerico is now making parts for the older DR4's. I broke first gear in mine this last year, and had no problem getting a new gear. My DR4 is 20 years old now, and is the old style TOP/Bottom loader.

Both of my Jerico DR4s were also the older top & bottom loader magnesium case versions, the one behind the Fairmonts FE was a early 6 lug model which used regular Toploader input bearing, the trans behind the small block was the "superior" later 10 lug  larger bearing model. Funny thing is, all the years I ran the older trans behind the FE, the only transmission breakage I had was 3rd gear, which cost $300. to repair. With the 10 year newer "improved" design, with less power, less weight, and less clutch pressure, I had a $1700. incident, when 3rd also broke, but the broken teeth got caught up in between the gears, which caused major damage (case ,top cover, several other gears, and knocked much of the snap ring groove of the input shaft). It was the later transmission that later broke the mainshaft. Even still, If Jerico had not discontinued making the parts, I would have stuck with them, as stuff does occasionally break, and I accept that. And between the 3 breakage incidents, I doubt that I spent more on all those repairs, than an automatic guy would have, over the time (20 years with the Fairmont , 14 years for the Mustang) , with similar performance . Plus I was able to sell each Jerico for roughly what I originally paid for them. I am glad that Jerico decided to continue to make parts again for the DR4, unfortunately it was after I had already sold both my Jericos.

[Rory428]

Rory, the comparisons between the two transmissions is very helpful. The handcuff on the G101A is what drew me to it. Some of the “make it work” items are a concern however. I don’t plunk down 5K on anything so need to get this right the first time,(hopefully). It is good to hear for all the DR-4 guys that Jerico is making parts.
Dale, thanks also.

I had been encouraged for years to make the switch to a G101A for years, by a local MoPar racer who races a mid 8 second SS/AH 68 Hemi Cuda, as well as a SS/D 71 Hemi Cuda that ran mid 9s, and also was raced well into the 8s with a 540 inch B1 Wedge engine. He was breaking his Jericos constantly before he made the switch to the G Force. And he considered the "handcuff" a significant benefit. That said, although the G101A likely has more inherent strength, I think the old DR4 is perfectly adequate for mid 9s in a 3200 pound or so car, with a properly setup race clutch.

[JERICOGTX]

Rory, the comparisons between the two transmissions is very helpful. The handcuff on the G101A is what drew me to it. Some of the “make it work” items are a concern however. I don’t plunk down 5K on anything so need to get this right the first time,(hopefully). It is good to hear for all the DR-4 guys that Jerico is making parts.
Dale, thanks also.

I had been encouraged for years to make the switch to a G101A for years, by a local MoPar racer who races a mid 8 second SS/AH 68 Hemi Cuda, as well as a SS/D 71 Hemi Cuda that ran mid 9s, and also was raced well into the 8s with a 540 inch B1 Wedge engine. He was breaking his Jericos constantly before he made the switch to the G Force. And he considered the "handcuff" a significant benefit. That said, although the G101A likely has more inherent strength, I think the old DR4 is perfectly adequate for mid 9s in a 3200 pound or so car, with a properly setup race clutch.

Peter Wille? Did he convert the 71 Cuda to Super Stock now?

[6667fan]

Doug, I was hoping you would chime in. I actually was going to pm you about your street driving impressions. Thanks!

All, I let a message with David Kee this a.m. to give me a call about a DR4-4 as he is a Jerico dealer.

[cjshaker]

Doug, I was hoping you would chime in. I actually was going to pm you about your street driving impressions. Thanks!

All, I let a message with David Kee this a.m. to give me a call about a DR4-4 as he is a Jerico dealer.

My tolerance level for putting up with what others would consider 'not fun', is pretty high. I know some guys say they can get whisper smooth shifts by rev matching on the street, but I've found that it's really hard to get it perfect, and I don't like the thought of burring the sliders and dogs up any more than necessary, so I double clutch. It's really smooth and quiet that way. It takes a split second longer to double clutch, but it's only an issue if you have a bunch of anxious drivers behind you.

When I downshift, I try to rev match best I can and then pop it into the lower gear as fast as I can. That keeps the engagement quick and doesn't allow it to clash or grind. It still makes a pretty good 'clunk' as it engages, but that's just the nature of the transmission without road race sliders or synchros. Most people would cringe at this point.

If somebody wants a smooth experience on the street, I wouldn't recommend a Jerico or G-Force without road race sliders. Do I have any regrets about putting mine in? Hell no, I love it. I'm sure if I were sitting in a traffic jam during Drag Week, I'd probably ask myself why the heck I did it, but I know that feeling would disappear the second I was on the track. I can live with that just fine...lol

[JERICOGTX]

There is nothing whisper quiet about a trans with straight cut gears and dog faced sliders. LOL. Jerico told me 20 years ago. The harder you beat on it, the longer it will last.