Author Topic: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor  (Read 3319 times)

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Bolted to Floor

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Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« on: May 25, 2020, 12:29:01 AM »
Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:   429            Dyno brand: Stuska
      Power Adder:  None             Where dynoed: Houston Engine & Balance
      Peak Horsepower: 486 @ 5600 RPM
      Peak Torque: 525 @ 4616 RPM

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:
D4 Ford block 4.07 with ARP main bolts. Line hone was checked, Sonic test was good for a .030 bore from standard. Would not go .040. Typical oil mods to passage from pump to filter. All oil galley tapped for plugs. Did check for plug at distributor. It was there with small hole.
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size:
Scat cast 4.125 stroke
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:
Scat BBC

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:
Race Tec forged, Wallace racing calculator has CR at 9.28

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:
Sealed Power main and rod bearings, standard. Not sure about cam bearings

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:
Mahle plasma moly file fit

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:
Melling standard volume blueprinted by Houston Engine & Balance, Factory style pick-up, and ARP drive

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:
Factory pan for Mustang with Ford Racing windage tray and CJ oil filter adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050")
Comp cams hydraulic roller with .558 / .567 lift with 114 lobe separation degreed to cam card spec at 107 intake center line. Duration at .050 - Intake 230, Exhaust 235


   Lifters brand, type:
Morel hydraulic rollers 5325

   Timing chain and timing cover:
Ford Performance Parts Timing Chain Sets M-6268-A390 and Ford timing cover

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:
Felony Heads. – no port work. Oil passage tapped for restrictor plug with .070 hole


   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:
-.050 retainer to get spring height correct

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio
Factory style non adjustable with matching oversized shafts from Rocker Arms Unlimited.

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:
Oversized shafts matched to rockers from Rocker Arms Unlimited. POPS end stands, Ford center stands

   Pushrods brand, type, length:
Smith Brothers 8.748”

   Valve covers, brand, type:
Re-chromed Powered by Ford

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:
Remanufactured Duraspark, curve unknown

   Harmonic balancer brand:
Factory unit exchanged from Damper Dude

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):
Remanufactured stock unit

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:
Edelbrock RPM no porting

   Carburetor(s) brand, type
Holley 750 vacuum secondary converted for 4 corner adjustment

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:
Shop headers for dyno. Looked like Hooker 6113 or 6114. MY FPA’s got new coating and I didn’t want to chance them on the dyno again


https://youtu.be/oEu-nLYaTJk

His printer wasn’t working they day we did this. My print out is a picture.


John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #1 on: May 25, 2020, 12:33:23 AM »
It’s been shoehorned back into the car and the car is all back together. It will need more tuning, but it’s good enough for now. I set the timing to 14 initial. Used a vac gauge to get the highest reading out of the carb which was 16. Not sure where the total comes in or how much I have right now. That will wait for another day.

The last motor did not have an oil gauge with numbers, just an idiot light. I never worried about it either , cause the light wasn’t on!!! There is a new Autometer oil pressure gauge working on this motor.  Oil pressure cold is about 50 psi idling about 900-950. Oil pressure hot is around 12 psi idling about 900-950. I guess I’m paranoid now.

That hydraulic clutch is still a pain in the back side. I didn’t break the lines when I pulled the motor cause I didn’t want to deal with bleeding it again. I guess cause I moved it in all directions during the re-install, I still had to bleed it. I also figured out looking under the dash that I don’t have a straight enough line between the clutch pedal and the clutch master. As the pedal goes down, the pivot point on the master pushes to the side as it goes forward. It could be adding to my problems.

Driving the car down the road again is great, missed that feeling a bunch. I’ve run it up to 80 briefly, no shakes or shimmies. It is kinda twitchy though from removing the control arms to weld in plates. An alignment will be scheduled in the near future. It does seem quieter inside the car going down the road than what it used to be.

 Now, this one needs to make 6000 miles like the last one, then another 95,000!!!  ;D ;D
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

turbohunter

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #2 on: May 25, 2020, 02:39:45 PM »
Congrats John
More big block mustangs are needed in this world.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #3 on: May 25, 2020, 10:19:39 PM »
Congrats John
More big block mustangs are needed in this world.

Thanks Marc. I agree.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

blykins

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #4 on: May 27, 2020, 04:28:32 AM »
John, is this one of my cams?  If so, thanks for the vacuum measurements....
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #5 on: May 27, 2020, 06:19:08 AM »
Yes sir, it is. Along with several other parts. Thanks for the help.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

BruceS

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #6 on: May 27, 2020, 08:27:26 AM »
John, glad to read you got 'er back together! 
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

cjshaker

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #7 on: May 27, 2020, 01:02:26 PM »
Glad you got it back together and can enjoy it again. And I agree with Marc, more big block Mustangs is what the world needs! ;D

That A/F ratio is really rich. There's some good horsepower sitting there with some jetting changes. Didn't the dyno shop do any carb adjustments?
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Stangman

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #8 on: May 27, 2020, 02:39:28 PM »
Nice John glad your back together. Yes didnt even notice about the A/F ratio, gotta be 15-20 HP there.
Excellent work.

Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #9 on: May 27, 2020, 09:24:31 PM »
Thanks guys. Now that it runs again, my therapy sessions can continue..... just to have it idle and burn my eyes is good.  ;D

The carb is unchanged from the last motor.....guess that one was rich too. As for carb tuning on the dyno, I didn’t ask for it and he didn’t offer. My biggest concern was that it would live through break in, be void of funny noises, and not mix the oil and water.

Not sure how to proceed on carb changes. I’ve never been very good at tuning one. Is trial and error really the key?? Drop 2 jet sizes and continue?  ???
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Stangman

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #10 on: May 27, 2020, 10:07:08 PM »
Make sure its not dumping or seeping and dropping 2 all the way around wouldnt be a bad start. Make sure all your timing and that stuff is were its suppossed to be. Who set it up for 4 corner idling?

cjshaker

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #11 on: May 27, 2020, 10:13:34 PM »
That's really rich. I'd guess it'll end up being 4-6 jet sizes, but maybe ask some of the builders here, who have more experience in typical changes, or even ask the dyno operator if there was an issue with their O2 sensor. At that ratio, I'd think it'd be sooting the plugs after a pull. Since it's been converted to 4 corner idle, it may just be a secondary jet change that's needed. It's well worth the time, even if you don't spend much time at WOT. An O2 sensor would be the best route for tuning, but that means bungs welded in and a good gauge.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #12 on: May 29, 2020, 10:25:05 PM »
Make sure its not dumping or seeping and dropping 2 all the way around wouldnt be a bad start. Make sure all your timing and that stuff is were its suppossed to be. Who set it up for 4 corner idling?

Thanks Stangman, I'll take a look at that this weekend. It was PRC, Precision Racing Components in Pasadena that did the conversion. I wanted it to look like the 735's and he said this would help with getting it tuned.
« Last Edit: May 29, 2020, 10:27:24 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: Take 2 for the Mustang Motor
« Reply #13 on: May 29, 2020, 10:53:40 PM »
That's really rich. I'd guess it'll end up being 4-6 jet sizes, but maybe ask some of the builders here, who have more experience in typical changes, or even ask the dyno operator if there was an issue with their O2 sensor. At that ratio, I'd think it'd be sooting the plugs after a pull. Since it's been converted to 4 corner idle, it may just be a secondary jet change that's needed. It's well worth the time, even if you don't spend much time at WOT. An O2 sensor would be the best route for tuning, but that means bungs welded in and a good gauge.

Thanks Doug, I did happen to take pictures, not great pictures though, of the plugs after the dyno session. I was too lazy to crank the motor over with the plugs in it when I was trying to get the bell housing dialed in.  ::) I'll start digging through the site for an O2 gauge. I remember several threads, just have to find them.

               





John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed