FE Power Forums
FE Power Forums => FE Technical Forum => FE Engine Dyno Results => Topic started by: Bolted to Floor on May 25, 2020, 12:29:01 AM
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Performance Summary:
Cubic Inches: 429 Dyno brand: Stuska
Power Adder: None Where dynoed: Houston Engine & Balance
Peak Horsepower: 486 @ 5600 RPM
Peak Torque: 525 @ 4616 RPM
Horsepower and Torque Curves:
Engine Specifications:
Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:
D4 Ford block 4.07 with ARP main bolts. Line hone was checked, Sonic test was good for a .030 bore from standard. Would not go .040. Typical oil mods to passage from pump to filter. All oil galley tapped for plugs. Did check for plug at distributor. It was there with small hole.
Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size:
Scat cast 4.125 stroke
Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:
Scat BBC
Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:
Race Tec forged, Wallace racing calculator has CR at 9.28
Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:
Sealed Power main and rod bearings, standard. Not sure about cam bearings
Piston rings brand, size, other notes:
Mahle plasma moly file fit
Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:
Melling standard volume blueprinted by Houston Engine & Balance, Factory style pick-up, and ARP drive
Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:
Factory pan for Mustang with Ford Racing windage tray and CJ oil filter adapter
Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050")
Comp cams hydraulic roller with .558 / .567 lift with 114 lobe separation degreed to cam card spec at 107 intake center line. Duration at .050 - Intake 230, Exhaust 235
Lifters brand, type:
Morel hydraulic rollers 5325
Timing chain and timing cover:
Ford Performance Parts Timing Chain Sets M-6268-A390 and Ford timing cover
Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:
Felony Heads. – no port work. Oil passage tapped for restrictor plug with .070 hole
Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:
-.050 retainer to get spring height correct
Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio
Factory style non adjustable with matching oversized shafts from Rocker Arms Unlimited.
Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:
Oversized shafts matched to rockers from Rocker Arms Unlimited. POPS end stands, Ford center stands
Pushrods brand, type, length:
Smith Brothers 8.748”
Valve covers, brand, type:
Re-chromed Powered by Ford
Distributor brand, advance curve information:
Remanufactured Duraspark, curve unknown
Harmonic balancer brand:
Factory unit exchanged from Damper Dude
Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):
Remanufactured stock unit
Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:
Edelbrock RPM no porting
Carburetor(s) brand, type
Holley 750 vacuum secondary converted for 4 corner adjustment
Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:
Shop headers for dyno. Looked like Hooker 6113 or 6114. MY FPA’s got new coating and I didn’t want to chance them on the dyno again
https://youtu.be/oEu-nLYaTJk
His printer wasn’t working they day we did this. My print out is a picture.
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It’s been shoehorned back into the car and the car is all back together. It will need more tuning, but it’s good enough for now. I set the timing to 14 initial. Used a vac gauge to get the highest reading out of the carb which was 16. Not sure where the total comes in or how much I have right now. That will wait for another day.
The last motor did not have an oil gauge with numbers, just an idiot light. I never worried about it either , cause the light wasn’t on!!! There is a new Autometer oil pressure gauge working on this motor. Oil pressure cold is about 50 psi idling about 900-950. Oil pressure hot is around 12 psi idling about 900-950. I guess I’m paranoid now.
That hydraulic clutch is still a pain in the back side. I didn’t break the lines when I pulled the motor cause I didn’t want to deal with bleeding it again. I guess cause I moved it in all directions during the re-install, I still had to bleed it. I also figured out looking under the dash that I don’t have a straight enough line between the clutch pedal and the clutch master. As the pedal goes down, the pivot point on the master pushes to the side as it goes forward. It could be adding to my problems.
Driving the car down the road again is great, missed that feeling a bunch. I’ve run it up to 80 briefly, no shakes or shimmies. It is kinda twitchy though from removing the control arms to weld in plates. An alignment will be scheduled in the near future. It does seem quieter inside the car going down the road than what it used to be.
Now, this one needs to make 6000 miles like the last one, then another 95,000!!! ;D ;D
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Congrats John
More big block mustangs are needed in this world.
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Congrats John
More big block mustangs are needed in this world.
Thanks Marc. I agree.
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John, is this one of my cams? If so, thanks for the vacuum measurements....
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Yes sir, it is. Along with several other parts. Thanks for the help.
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John, glad to read you got 'er back together!
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Glad you got it back together and can enjoy it again. And I agree with Marc, more big block Mustangs is what the world needs! ;D
That A/F ratio is really rich. There's some good horsepower sitting there with some jetting changes. Didn't the dyno shop do any carb adjustments?
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Nice John glad your back together. Yes didnt even notice about the A/F ratio, gotta be 15-20 HP there.
Excellent work.
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Thanks guys. Now that it runs again, my therapy sessions can continue..... just to have it idle and burn my eyes is good. ;D
The carb is unchanged from the last motor.....guess that one was rich too. As for carb tuning on the dyno, I didn’t ask for it and he didn’t offer. My biggest concern was that it would live through break in, be void of funny noises, and not mix the oil and water.
Not sure how to proceed on carb changes. I’ve never been very good at tuning one. Is trial and error really the key?? Drop 2 jet sizes and continue? ???
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Make sure its not dumping or seeping and dropping 2 all the way around wouldnt be a bad start. Make sure all your timing and that stuff is were its suppossed to be. Who set it up for 4 corner idling?
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That's really rich. I'd guess it'll end up being 4-6 jet sizes, but maybe ask some of the builders here, who have more experience in typical changes, or even ask the dyno operator if there was an issue with their O2 sensor. At that ratio, I'd think it'd be sooting the plugs after a pull. Since it's been converted to 4 corner idle, it may just be a secondary jet change that's needed. It's well worth the time, even if you don't spend much time at WOT. An O2 sensor would be the best route for tuning, but that means bungs welded in and a good gauge.
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Make sure its not dumping or seeping and dropping 2 all the way around wouldnt be a bad start. Make sure all your timing and that stuff is were its suppossed to be. Who set it up for 4 corner idling?
Thanks Stangman, I'll take a look at that this weekend. It was PRC, Precision Racing Components in Pasadena that did the conversion. I wanted it to look like the 735's and he said this would help with getting it tuned.
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That's really rich. I'd guess it'll end up being 4-6 jet sizes, but maybe ask some of the builders here, who have more experience in typical changes, or even ask the dyno operator if there was an issue with their O2 sensor. At that ratio, I'd think it'd be sooting the plugs after a pull. Since it's been converted to 4 corner idle, it may just be a secondary jet change that's needed. It's well worth the time, even if you don't spend much time at WOT. An O2 sensor would be the best route for tuning, but that means bungs welded in and a good gauge.
Thanks Doug, I did happen to take pictures, not great pictures though, of the plugs after the dyno session. I was too lazy to crank the motor over with the plugs in it when I was trying to get the bell housing dialed in. ::) I'll start digging through the site for an O2 gauge. I remember several threads, just have to find them.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49950200253_3343f70f9f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6VQic) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6VQic)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49950992337_1bd5065fc8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6ZTKP) (https://flic.kr/p/2j6ZTKP)