Hooker Super Comp 1-3/4 Headers - Max Horsepower?

[fe468stroker]

I am running the Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4" pipes.  My combination in the '68 produces 600+ HP at the flywheel.  The few times I let it all hang out through the gears, the engine continued to pull awesomely up to the rev limiter set at 6400.  I am using a Comp Cam solid roller and 6400 seemed to be the top of the torque curve so why push it.  Exhaust system could limit just as much as smaller header tubes.

[70tp]

I thought everybody’s header bolts fit like that.  Mine do

[plovett]

I switched from Hooker 1-3/4" headers to 2" Crites headers on the dyno 14 years ago.  I just pulled out the sheets.

On a 517 hp 428 the 2" headers made about 5-6 more peak hp.   The big headers were stronger at all rpms from 3200 rpm up.  At 3000 rpm, the start of the pull, the 1-3/4" headers made 2 more hp.   Below that who knows.  Peak torque was 2 lb/ft higher with the 2" headers.

So even at that lower hp level, the 1-3/4" Hookers cost a little power.   So at 600-625 hp you can guess what the loss will be.

paulie

[hhiibel]

thanks for the pic. yes thats how far down the web pic shows the plate was notched for fit.
 

[jgkurz]

After much consideration and research I think I'm going to give the Doug's D627-R headers a try. Doug's, Crites & Mad Dog are the only non-REF headers that offer larger than 1.75" primaries for my Mustang. I read on fordfe.com that the Doug's fit well if used with a non-kickout oil pan. I may cut off the old school collectors and add merge collectors while I'm at it.

[mbrunson427]

Do your REF headers have 1-7/8" primaries or 2" primaries? We mocked up the REF headers on the Mustang this weekend, our Mustang also has shock tower reinforcement plates, but they fit actually super well. Ours are the 1-7/8" primaries.

We wrote ourselves up a whole procedure of the order we put everything in. One thing we had to do is drill a hole in the shock tower for the #5 top flange bolt, it was impossible to get that bolt in without doing something like that. At #3 the shock tower also required some grinding on the reinforcement plate, and we slotted the top flange to get the bolt in better.

Tube's went in one tune at a time. Drivers side, #7,#6,#5, then #8. Passenger was #3, #2, #1, then #4.

Picture's don't show up too well because it's black headers on black engine compartment.

[mbrunson427]

ALSO, the REF's will absolutely not work with a power steering idler arm. We are ordering a new manual steering idler arm. The Mustang has a flaming river steering box in it and that all cleared too.

[machoneman]

Man, there is some ugly lookin' cuss in that first pic! LOL

Yes, they seem to fit well and alhough most won't see it, those bends south of the motor mounts look like old Trans-Am and sports car headers. Nice! 

[cjshaker]

Just judging by the pictures, they look like they will be real close to the filter adapter. Have you tried fitting it on the block? Some of the aftermarket billet jobs are pretty thick, so might be an issue with them as well. And they obviously would not work with the factory cooler design like I have on my car, but the old race Hookers won't work with that either, as well as the Mad Dog race headers and others that have the #5 tube that goes straight down.

[jgkurz]

My REF are step headers that start as 1-7/8 and step up to 2-1/8. The flanges are 1/2 thick. The Idler arm was not a problem, but the Pitman arm was until I changed it to an original Ford style and not a reproduction style. There is a difference. I also changed to the manual steering link with my Borgeson box.

[mbrunson427]

Man, there is some ugly lookin' cuss in that first pic! LOL

Ha! That's my Dad. He's rarely caught in a photo, can't stand them.

Just judging by the pictures, they look like they will be real close to the filter adapter. Have you tried fitting it on the block? Some of the aftermarket billet jobs are pretty thick, so might be an issue with them as well. And they obviously would not work with the factory cooler design like I have on my car, but the old race Hookers won't work with that either, as well as the Mad Dog race headers and others that have the #5 tube that goes straight down.

Doug, we will be running a remote filter. I caught onto this Saturday and did some questioning. For non drag use they suggest running a remote style unit. For drag race only, a standard housing can be used and you don't run the car for long enough that it becomes a problem.

[Stangman]

Not sure if the fitament problems outway the 7 horsepower. Yes I know it would be more when you get to 650 plus horse but really how much. Does anyone have any real proof how much.

[fryedaddy]

i have took off and put on those hookers on my comets and fairlanes over the years .its not that bad after you have done it a dozen times.i loosen up the motor mount on the pass side and jack that side of the engine up about a inch and that side will slip in,and on the driver side the 2 piece goes in with no problem.but the bolts are a different story.some goes in from the bottom,some from the top,a few you have to use both hands the tip of a finger on each hand.some you have to tighten 1/8 turn at a time and flip the wrench over every other turn.i usually make a day out of it here in my old age 57.but back in the early 1980s i would throw them on in no time flat.i have used a remote filter ever since i bought my first set.i still like and use them.

[Bolted to Floor]

These pictures bring back nightmares of the first time I unbolted them in the Mustang. Took every afternoon that week after work. Then they still wouldn’t come loose. Laid down on the ground and was amazed to see more header bolts.   

From all the reading I’ve done here, someone mentioned a 5/16 head header bolt. Those and a 5/16” ratchet wrench have made life a easier.

[jgkurz]

Not sure if the fitament problems outway the 7 horsepower. Yes I know it would be more when you get to 650 plus horse but really how much. Does anyone have any real proof how much.

This question keeps me up at night. The Hooker 6114's would be MUCH easier to install. I also think adding merge collectors would improve them slightly. What I don't want is an engine that makes 650 on the dyno and 600 in the car. FPA headers are also easy to install but I think the Hookers will support a bit more power. The Doug's 627-R headers "should" be easier then the REF but still support 600+. Decisions decisions!