All things FE Headers.

[thatdarncat]

Doug's question a couple weeks ago about header fitment around the oil pan got me thinking - there are always a lot of FE Header questions, since we have such a large variety of FE powered vehicles, and often many with tight engine compartments, along with just the usual header issues, maybe we could use a post that gathers as much of the info together in one place as possible, hopefully so people can search in the future. I see a lot of FE header questions elsewhere online too, whether looking for recommendations, or "will they fit...?". There are a lot of reasonably priced stainless headers on places like eBay now days too, but usually with nothing more than the info that they fit "Fords", not real helpful. My thought is that people will continue to add to this post, hopefully with pictures, but also their experiences with fit issues, luck they've had with swapping headers to a vehicle that didn't originally have an FE, Cheap headers that worked...or didn't, custom headers they've built, race headers, dyno comparison results, headers that happened to work on a different application, etc. I think you get the idea. The pictures could help people I.D. old headers they find at swap meets, etc. too. Be sure to include brand names and part numbers if you know them. Jay's book has some great info that can give people some good guidelines, but of course there are many more varieties of FE headers out there. This could become a huge out of control post I suppose, so let me know if you think the idea is dumb.

I recently put together a "mock up" FE engine in the garage to help with a project I'm working on, so I figured I could start this out with some FE headers I have sitting around while that was handy to bolt them to and take pictures. I'll add some of the observations I've had with them ( at least what I remember ).

Like I said, please add to this any pictures you have, whether the headers are just sitting on the floor, or on your vehicle, or modifications you had to make, whatever. You never know what might help someone out.

I'll add too, people should certainly go ahead and make their own separate header posts if they want, I don't mean to push someone here where their answer might get lost, I'm just trying to make a general informational post people can refer to if that makes sense.

[thatdarncat]

Here are a set of REF headers I have. REF in Kingman Arizona makes these headers to your order, so they aren't just a universal part. These were spec'd for a 390 Stock Eliminator '67 Mustang/Cougar drag race application, with an automatic. REF would make them differently for example if it was for a 428, or a stick shift, etc. These are 8 individual tubes that slip into the collector. They will ask about the specific heads you're using, these were made for an 8 exhaust bolt hole head, they can do other patterns. As you can see these won't fit a "T" style oil pan, but info from Doug's recent question sounds like they can make those too. The O2 sensor bungs were an option. I had the V-Band clamp flanges welded on after, since I plan to also use these on Dragweek with exhaust occasionally. I also had them coated locally. Best idea for anyone interested would be to contact REF directly about what they can make, price, etc.



Here shows an issue I found, the standard FL1 style oil filter will contact the forward tube of the header with a stock Ford oil filter adapter, which angles slightly rearward, I am going to use a Precision Oil Pumps oil filter adapter that points the oil filter straight down, which clears then. There's enough tolerance to just get the stock filter to fit, but it touches, with some modification a person could make the Ford filter adapter work.



The stock Ford car filter adapter.

[thatdarncat]

Here are a set of Hooker 6113 Super Competition headers. Application is '66-'69 Fairlane/Torino/Comet, also some Falcon. I bought these back around 1981, I'm not sure if Hooker has made any changes to these over the years, maybe someone can comment? I had them coated. The drivers side header is a two piece, with a slip fit. I specifically bought these at the time since they would work with the factory clutch linkage. They will not work with a Mustang/Cougar style motor mount on the drivers side, no room to bolt to the block.

One issue with these was the stock Ford oil filter adapter would not fit with the forward tubes. As you can see in the pictures you can fit an oil filter on with the Precision Oil Pumps filter adapter, but the filter is very close. A person may want to check the smaller diameter style oil filter. When I used these I had a remote oil filter set-up.



The collectors on these end at different points due to the pipe layout.









These have slotted upper end bolt holes in the flanges to fit either the 8 bolt/16 bolt exhaust pattern, or the 14 exhaust bolt shock tower head pattern. I don't know if Hooker still makes them that way.





These have the Hooker 6113 part number stamped in them on the flanges and the Hooker logo stamped in the collectors.

[thatdarncat]

Here's the passenger side from a Hooker 6114 Super Competition set. Unfortunately the drivers side of this set I have got bent in an careless trailer mishap. The application for these is Mustang/Cougar. Both sides are single piece header. I bought these in the late '80's, if I remember. I think they have "Mexico" stamped on the flanges, along with the part number. Originally they had a "Hooker" tag spot welded on. These only have bolt holes to fit the 8 exhaust bolt pattern, or the 428 CJ style 16 exhaust bolt pattern, they were not slotted to fit the lower top end bolt holes of the 14 exhaust pattern of the shock tower ( GT ) heads. I modified these to fit the 14 exhaust bolt pattern by drilling extra holes, there's a picture of that below. These had to be welded on the flanges eventually when they started to rust through. You'll notice the passenger side header is similar, but not the same as, the single piece side of the Hooker 6113 Fairlane header. I had these coated.

[thatdarncat]

Here's a set of Hooker 6375 adjustable race headers. These probably date to the early '70's. When Jay was doing the dyno testing for his book we compared these to his Hooker 6375 race headers, that he purchased more recently, and they were a little different, so I assume Hooker made a change at some point. These have the part number stamped in the flanges. These came on one of my cars long ago, sorry, they are pretty rough. These hang pretty low, and show plenty of road scars. The oil filter is very close to the forward tubes, but because of the slight angle of the tubes on these they will fit with the stock Ford oil filter adapter. The "adjustable" part of these is they came with extra parts you could add between the tubes and the collector to change the length, you can see them in one of the pictures I think. These have very large tubes, but also have the largest port openings on the flanges of most common FE headers I've seen. Hooker lists these fitting both '67-'70 Mustang/Cougar and '66-69 Fairlane/Torino/Comet.

















These have the slotted upper end bolt holes too, so they will work with both the 8 exhaust bolt/16 exhaust bolt pattern and the 14 exhaust bolt shock tower head pattern.

[thatdarncat]

Here are a set of Cyclone brand part number #10647 headers. The application was '67-'70 Mustang/Cougar and '66-69 Fairlane/Torino/Comet. I bought these in about 1980. Unfortunately when I bought them through my friends shop back then we didn't notice the notation in the catalog that they would only fit automatic transmission, and not manual transmission vehicles. You can probably see there isn't room for the stock clutch linkage with these. An issue you can note in one of the pictures also is that one of the tubes is right on the back corner of the block. These are mocked up without gaskets, with a gasket they might not touch, otherwise a person would maybe have to clearance the tube or block to keep from rubbing. I should note too, most of these headers including these, won't fit with the original Ford power steering cylinder unless you get an optional drop bracket, if they will fit at all. There isn't any part number or brand logo on these.



Where the tube hits the block









These actually have nice slotted upper end holes to use with either the 8 exhaust bolt/16 exhaust bolt hole pattern or 14 exhaust bolt shock tower head pattern. Seems to me some of the other bolt holes are not fun to get to though.

[thatdarncat]

These are a set of FE headers a friend gave me. I have no idea what brand they are, or what they are supposed to fit. If someone recognizes them let me know. They have no brand logo or part number on them. They are two piece on both sides - one forward tube slips into the other part on the drivers side, the two forward tubes slip into the rest on the passenger side. These are a little tweeked on the passenger side, and the two forward tubes are also rusted in place, so I wasn't able to fully bolt these up to the passenger side head, but I think you get the idea. Also, I could tell a couple of these bolt holes would be near impossible to get to.

Alright, I think that's all I have for now.

[Ranch]

On my '58' I too have my front two tubes coming close to the oil filter and also 3&7 crossing under the pan. When I had my headers ceramic coated I applied a section of that sticky backed aluminum faced thermal barrier on the back under area of the pan and when I change my filter I cover the back half of the side of my filter with the same.  I have to screw the new filter on and mark where I think it will clock when finally installed, take it off and apply the heat barrier, then ready to go back on for another season.
If I would have been thinking I would have dented the tubes closes to the filter before having them ceramic coated.

Oh by the way, the ceramic coating didn't seem to help much with the underhood temp.  What did seem to work was moving the latch on my clam shell hood to open about an 1 1/2" to let the hot air out. I still wouldn't want to be stuck in a traffic jam with summer temps in the 90's.  I see a lota guys put spacers or washers between the hood and the hinge with the standard opening hood

[62Falcon390]

headers for a FE Falcon. I had to make them outside the rails as I am using a 4 speed with mechanical clutch and the driver side wouldn't fit inside the rails.

[FERoadster]

My 48 Lincoln Continental has real interference to the steering box and the engine sits low. Most headers wouldn't work they drop down to far so I used FE shorty cast iron. They tuck back quickly and stay close to the block. The other issue as I see with the pictures is the oil filter. I cleared it by using the 1976 4X4 oil filter adapter. It angles the oil filter forward about 30 degrees. (they are really hard to find)
Here is a comparison on how the 4X4 adapter helped. Car adapter and the 4X4 adapter.

Richard

[Drew Pojedinec]

Why not just put all info here?

76 F100 390 2wd
Flowtech headers
On install they hit the center support on the driver side and need a little grinder work done on the support.  Passenger side fits fine but stock starter cannot be installed or removed with headers attached as truck engine perch prevents it.
C6 transmission can NOT be removed or installed with headers attached.
I’ve had these installed for over a decade and they appear to have held up well in daily driver usage.

63.5 Galaxie
Fpa headers
Hit a-arm passenger side, a-arm can be ground or have 1/4 inch removed with no ill effects.
Steering hits header tube on passenger side at full travel but no Issue so no action taken.
Steering is power parts but control valve changed to borgeson adapter and functions as manual.
To test run engine I installed empty c6 case with no issues however I could not install or remove a ready to run c6 as I could not install it at that angle with a converter in place.

[HvyFt4spd]

Just a quick FYI on eBay headers while each and every set is different be aware that any tube joint is suspect to being blocked due to careless fitting. Often 304 Stainless flanges = nickelplated steel. 304 tubing = very brittle nonmagnetic mystery alloy that requires high wetting temps and cracks with minor stress. Stainless fasteners are nickel plated steel too and the gasket set is of equally low quality... You also must verify sparkplug clearance to RnR as tubes are often in the way as is flange design on various non FE specific sets.
Pictured are blocked tubes from a set of small Ford Tri-y's for early Mustang.

[HvyFt4spd]

*

[TomP]

On the "no idea what brand" ones, they almost look like Crites/MadDog but I don't think they have just one left tube under the crossmember like that though.

I had Cyclones on my 67 Comet with a 4 speed, as I recall the clutch crossbar lower lever hit and the shaft goes above the rear tube rather than running between tubes. Been a while, that was 1980. I remember them hitting the shock towers and being a bugger to install.

I have an inspection camera, a buddy brought over his new China stainless headers for his Mustang. He hadn't yet put them on but just to show off his jewel-like purchase. I stick the inspection camera down a tube and the first one I tried had the tube end at the wall of the tube it "Y's" to. There was a small hole, maybe an inch or less that whole 1 5/8" pipe would have to flow through. No way to get a grinder or torch in there.

[blu64galaxie]

Count me in as one of those -- I'll be following !   And thanks for posting all this up ! 

Like I said, please add to this any pictures you have, whether the headers are just sitting on the floor, or on your vehicle, or modifications you had to make, whatever. You never know what might help someone out.

I'll add too, people should certainly go ahead and make their own separate header posts if they want, I don't mean to push someone here where their answer might get lost, I'm just trying to make a general informational post people can refer to if that makes sense.