intake to block gap

[chris401]

Has your block been decked? You will see the machine marks if the china walls were cut too much trying to match the deck cut.

[fryedaddy]

Has your block been decked? You will see the machine marks if the china walls were cut too much trying to match the deck cut.

no decked block.my core was in such good shape,the crank did not need to be turned,the block did not need boring.66 428 out of a tbird.no machine work other than oil mods has been done.after seeing the pic of brents engine,im sure my gap is fine.its only slightly bigger than the mr,gasket cork ends,and they seem to be thin and puny.

[Posi67]

I've never had a problem with The Right Stuff out of the caulking tube. Never tried the aerosol version but suspect it could cause porosity. Also never had any luck with Silicone. As for the corks, they can work if glued into place on the block but need to be thick enough and obviously, yours aren't. Good possibility a different brand would work but the painless fix is a bead of your preferred sealer. 

[amdscooter]

Funny this post has come up. When I put my 390 back together a few years ago had the same issue with the intake gap.



Decided to try the OEM cork and see what happens despite my engine building friend who advised a nice bead of goo on both ends. Well after a few years of the intake leeching oil all over the place it's coming off and I'm going the bead of goo route.   


***edit***

Holy cow that photo is huge.. sorry. looking for a new photo hosting site since photobucket decided to end it's free service. I'll try to get that resized.

[TorinoBP88]

If the block and/or heads have been decked and faced, it is when getting the intake faced.

Whether you do that or not, I have heat luck with two or three rows carfully applying silicine piled up to fill the gap,then gently set the intake down.

Don't gob too much on corners that can block oil drain back.

Then smooth of with fingers.

Usually use gray or black stuff.

[cjshaker]

I've never had a problem with The Right Stuff out of the caulking tube. Never tried the aerosol version but suspect it could cause porosity. Also never had any luck with Silicone.

Ditto what Dale said. I think the aerosol can is what causes the small bubbles and porosity.

And Scooter, that picture is the perfect size on my screen. No need to resize it.

[fryedaddy]

i got it back together and started it up.so far no leaks or smoke.i ended up using the mr gasket 202A intake gasket and the right stuff in the caulking gun on the end rails.knock on wood so far so good

[fryedaddy]

i am so happy with these new heads and intake.i got to drive it today,awesome power,great idle,crisp throttle response,very happy.im pretty sure it sealed up good too.

[Falcon67]

You people got nuttin' going on   

4V Funnelweb


Torker w/gaskets


Tunnel Ram w/gaskets

[jayb]

Chris, I think you bought the wrong heads 

Seriously, I have NEVER seen a gap that big...

[Falcon67]

Poor man's Air Gap.     Or double air gap!

[cjshaker]

YIKES! I wouldn't even attempt sealer on that gap! Darn nice shop though!

[2ndgear]

Heres a thought?

Make a spacer 1/8-3/16-1/4 (alum) or what ever and goop it and pin it to the block and then goop the manifold. You can use the same spacer for both manifolds if you do some measuring? Save on the goop and good luck.

[Nightmist66]

Forget this:


You need:

[Barry_R]

Poor man's Air Gap.     Or double air gap!

A couple of the EMC entries where I moved the heads inboard had gaps like that.  Made aluminum spacers.  Goop/spacer/goop...

And a sleeve for the distributor to live in

On the Cleveland you just make a flat plate to seal off the valley.