Replacing pusrods, lifters and valvesprings

[1976kjell]

In the next weeks the 390 in my Galaxie will get new pusrods, lifters, retainers, seals and valvesprings

I have two sets of pushrods, hopefully the old ones will be the exact same length as one of the sets

Is it just to remove and replace, and start the engine. Or does the engine then need a break in?

[ScotiaFE]

If you are putting in new lifters you should do a break in.
Lube up the bottoms of the lifters with a cam lube.
Then run the engine for a good 20 mins at 2000 rpm varying up to 2800 or so.
Have the timing light ready to go at first start and set it at 10 to 12 degs btdc.
I would keep the vacuum advance unplug for the break in run.

[cjshaker]

Yes, if you're putting in new lifters, I would treat it like you would a new cam and put break-in lube on the lifters and lobes and do a 20-30 minute run-in. But I have to disagree with Howie's statement about disconnecting the vacuum advance. Since there won't be any load on the engine, detonation should not be an issue, and running the advance retarded will build lots of heat, possibly damaging some stuff. I did this once on an engine and it got so hot that the header tubes started to glow and it cooked the ceramic coating off of the first 6" or so.

[machoneman]

Yes, one must be absolutely sure the timing isn't retarded! Timing light hooked up, gas in the carb's bowls,
water on hand to re-fill the rad. if needed.

Strangely enough, here's an easy way to be sure. If the engine is not torn down yet, take it up to 2,000 rpm or so and using the light, note by eyeball where the mark is if you don't have a balancer marked beyond 10-12 degrees or so. Shut it off, mark that spot with chalk, re-fire it and check it again. This way, when you and a helper  (always a good idea) fire it up with the new parts, you can quickly check that the timing is advanced where you want it for that 20-30 minute break-in.   

[Nightmist66]

But I have to disagree with Howie's statement about disconnecting the vacuum advance.

Why is that Doug? To properly set timing with vacuum advance, the vacuum should be disconnected and plugged and the timing should be set as if it where a mechanical distributor. The vacuum is for additional timing over the "total" mechanical advance, mainly for cruising. If the base and/or total timing w/out vacuum is set properly, you should not have to worry about the additional from the vacuum advance. I understand your point about having the timing retarded though, it can definitely build heat! I have seen that.

[cjshaker]

Jared, a vacuum advance distributor typically has a different timing curve compared to a mechanical unit. If the vacuum advance is not hooked up, the advance can be retarded at a no-load rpm of 2000-2500. While it's typically not a problem, it does increase exhaust temps. Also, when breaking in the lifters, the car is sitting static and gets very little, if any, airflow. A fan can be used, but that doesn't replace the airflow of what you would see going down the road. That will only add to the heat issue. I don't see a reason to make the engine labor harder than it needs to, so why unhook the vacuum advance?

[KMcCullah]

In the next weeks the 390 in my Galaxie will get new pusrods, lifters, retainers, seals and valvesprings

Hey Kjell- Did you mean to say "rocker arms" instead of "lifters"? I can't feature why you would be changing lifters.

[1976kjell]

The lifters, along the other parts as mentioned, will be replaced. Last year the engine had a ticking sound, and different oils was tried. One possibility is that a lifter is bad. Worth a try. And when I do that, the other parts can also be replaced. The stock rocker arms works ok I assume

Removed the rocker shaft and pushrods today. Its a challenge to pull the lifters up, so a valve lifter toll is ordered

The new pushrods (ELG PR 311 S,5/16" x 9.620" x .060" ) only weight 2/3 compared with the old ones. The lenghts look identical, but It may be some minimal difference. Its difficult to measure

[1976kjell]

Pulled up some of the lifters yesterday. It was more difficult than expected, because I thought the lifters could be removed through the pushrod holes, but it wasnt like that. The front and rear lifters have to be moved to the middle of the engine and be pulled up through the open areas there. And some of the lifters got a bit dirty. The challenge now is to insert the new lifter keeping them clean.

[ScotiaFE]

If this was me, I would pull the intake.
You need to have a good look at the cam.
It could be the lobe that has been worn and changing lifters will not stop the ticking.

The new push rods are hollow tubes and the stock push rods are solid rods.
That's why they weigh differently.

[KMcCullah]

Look closely at your old lifters. Use a good straight ruler. They all should have a slight crown on their bottoms. If not, then like Howie said, you probably have a bad cam lobe that's causing your ticking sound. 

[Nightmist66]

If you don't have a decent straight edge or ruler, no sweat, just hold the bottom of one lifter against the side of another. If it is flat or even concave, they are junk. It would be a good idea to take a peek at the lobes as was mentioned.

[1976kjell]

So If the lifters have a crown at the bottoms, then the cam probably is good, and it can be other faults f.ex inside the lifters?

After the advice to take off the intake and looking at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGcreeVKk9E , the intake may be taken of and even glasblasted and painted

If the old solid pushrods are good, is it better to use them, than the new hollow ones? Will the hollow pushrod could bend easier?

[ScotiaFE]

There is very little that can go wrong inside the lifter, but it could plug up and not get oil.
Not sure what intake you have, but if it is a stock iron intake it should have a splash shield on the
bottom and it will have to be removed if you blast it. The last thing you want is lots of little beads
in the engine.
Even if a lifter looks ok the lobe can still have wear.
The lifter is normally harder than the cam, and the soft guy usually looses if the wear fight. 
A good test is to put all the lifters in their holes and rotate the engine and measure each lifter for
the required lift. That will tell you if you have lode wear.

Tube vs Solid
Generally speaking the hollow tube will have greater benefits than the solid rod.
Mostly weight.
Use the tube push rods.

The guy in the video glued that intake down pretty good.
I would lay down a thicker bead on the front and rear bulkheads though.

[1976kjell]

The intake on the engine isnt original I guess, but it is a C.j. intake and has the number C8OE-9425-C. Could have ordered a performer RPM intake, but that may be done in some years

Considered also to buy a new cam, 268H, but that will take time and cost a bit. Another thread in this forum is about that. The old cam has worked ok, eventually except thicking

http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-intake