1st FE build, looking for 1hp per cube with alot of low end torque

[67Rancher0]

Hello everyone

This is my first FE build for my 67 Ranchero. All of my past builds were 302s or 347s supercharged and 7500 rpm NA builds in foxbody mustangs. Ive kind of gotten away from chasing horsepower and want to build a nice cruiser but, i dont want to feel starved for power either.

This is what i currently have

67 Ranchero 500 XL
390 stock 2barrel motor with holley 500
Rebuilt C6 with 2400 stall with plans for motor upgrades
2.75 gears with 27 in tires
pertronix distributor

With the current set up timing at 26 base and 36 all in at 2200 it runs really well for what it is. Gets about 16 mpg on the highway and will do the old 1 tire fire pretty easy lol

This is what i am considering for the engine rebuild

standard 390 rebuild 9.8 comp
edelbrock 72cc heads
edelbrock rpm intake
quick fuel 750 carb
comp XE262H cam
FPA tri-y headers, x-pipe, magnaflows
3.50 gears

I would like a lot of low and midrange power, and have no need to pull rpms to make power, just want something that is fun to drive and calm enough to make 300 mile trips in. Occasional smoke show also.

The cam is my biggest unknown, most cruising time will be spent between 2200 and 2800 rpms, so im looking for great low and mid power with a snappy throttle.

Will the stock shaft rockers be ok for this cam, im no sure of what the limitations are for the shaft set up as i am only used to setting up roller rockers.

Please let me know your thoughts here guys

Bob

[blykins]

I think you have a pretty solid plan there and that combo should do everything you need it to do.    The factory rockers will work just fine. 

[jayb]

You might consider a stroker kit to increase the cubes.  Figure out how much it will cost you to rebuild the short block as is, and then compare it to using a 4.25" stroker kit instead (around $2K for crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings).  You will pick up over 50 cubic inches and probably 60 foot pounds of torque with the stroker kit, which would make a huge difference in low end torque.  I personally wouldn't build a stock stroke 390 anymore; the benefits of the stroker kits include better than stock rods, pistons, a modern ring package, and a better rod bearing.  If you are planning to replace parts in the stock 390 short block, the cost adder for going to a stroker kit may not be all that much.

With the extra cubes you could also go up a step on the cam, to an XE274 for example, and have about the same idle, throttle response, and vacuum characteristics.  In any case, though, the stock rockers should be fine.

Good luck on the project, and let us know how it turns out!

[C6AE]

Get the Edelbrock heads first and CC them. The several sets that I have purchased (new) were closer to 77 CC's out of the box.
This may make your choice of pistons a little different.

[Lenz]

You might consider a stroker kit to increase the cubes.  Figure out how much it will cost you to rebuild the short block as is, and then compare it to using a 4.25" stroker kit instead (around $2K for crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings).  You will pick up over 50 cubic inches and probably 60 foot pounds of torque with the stroker kit, which would make a huge difference in low end torque.  I personally wouldn't build a stock stroke 390 anymore; the benefits of the stroker kits include better than stock rods, pistons, a modern ring package, and a better rod bearing.  If you are planning to replace parts in the stock 390 short block, the cost adder for going to a stroker kit may not be all that much.

With the extra cubes you could also go up a step on the cam, to an XE274 for example, and have about the same idle, throttle response, and vacuum characteristics.  In any case, though, the stock rockers should be fine.

Good luck on the project, and let us know how it turns out!

I will 2nd Jay's input with personal experience.  What he describes above is included in what I'm running right now, .030" over on the 390 block with the 4.25 stroker kit and the same cam (XE274).  Top end is all Edelbrock Performer RPM on the heads and intake with a 750 vac sec Holley and Hooker super comps to round it out.

Drives the interstate as well as light to light in town without issues, sounds just right and delivers great bang for the buck in my view.  If it'll get my Galaxie going like it does I'd think your Ranchero would be well served.

As stated, good luck with the build

Should note, I'm using adjustable Harland Sharp rockers (bushed) with roller tips on the stock shafts.  Overall lift is just under .600", single springs on the Ed heads as provided are sufficient for street duty.  When I looked at the dual spring offerings from Ed I found that the only real difference was the springs, so I believe I can upgrade these heads if I decide to get more aggressive with my setup down the road.

[67Rancher0]

Thanks  for all the feedback

I forgot to mention that I dont need to make any consessions to vacuum as i have ditched the power steering and power brakes.

I also think the need for the stroker may be beyond the scope of my needs.

If somebody has any other cam options that will work with the edelbrock springs and wont have me spining the motor above 6000 rpms let me hear your thoughts.

[Yellow Truck]

I'm with Jay. I had planned to put a cam in my 410, but when I got it open and looked inside I needed new pistons. When I did the arithmetic it was a couple of hundred bucks more to get a new rotating assembly with forged pistons, new rods, etc. It is my own fault for not stopping there - I had to go new intake, new heads, roller cam/lifters, roller cam, ceramic coating my headers, etc.

But the stroker kit vs new pistons was sensible. I'm standing by that.

[BruceS]

Just an FYI, marginal vacuum may also affect the heater operation if you have the factory setup.  My '66 Fairlane has 13-14 at idle versus 18 stock and the heater struggles to work, but eventually starts putting out.  Fairlanes / Rancheros of our vintage use vacuum for heat and AC, power brakes, and auto trans kickdown. 

Bruce

[67Rancher0]

I feel like I'm missing something with the short block rebuild here. On the Survival Motor sports website they have a 390 standard rebuild kit for 700 and strikers for 2000 plus. The 1300 or more dollars difference would cover the cost of my exhaust and intake.

Is there something wrong with the stock crank and rods for sub 6000 rpm use.  I'm not opposed to spending the money if it is needed for strength, my last motor was a Dart big bore 347 forged, zero balanced because it was gonna see rpm and boost.

I'm just looking for 1HP per cube under 6000, if the stock crank n rods aren't up to the task please educate me. Machine work isn't an issue either so it's simply about whether the stock stuff is capable

[Nightmist66]

Stock crank and rods should be more than sufficient. I would make sure you get a good balance job on your rotating assembly and upgrade to ARP fasteners on rods if you want extra peace of mind, check rods for straigtness, etc., etc.
JMO.

[jayb]

I have seen too many cases where the stock components just sort of give up when put through a little performance use.  Forty or fifty year old rods breaking through the beam, for example, under rather mild performance use.  Odds are you won't encounter such a failure, but if I'm going through the trouble of rebuilding an entire engine I prefer not to take those kinds of chances.  The stroker kit gets you new, improved components over the stock parts, plus a big boost in torque.  It's a safer, easier way to make the power, in my opinion.

[Yellow Truck]

Not claiming expertise, including what things cost where you live, but the stroker kit is balanced, and includes high quality forged pistons and new rods, the rebuild kit has cast pistons.

On the other hand, the 390 kit does include a cam and oil pump. It is clearly cheaper, but you probably have to pay for balancing.

When I got my pistons and rods I weighed them all. All were within a half a gram of each other.

[67Rancher0]

Well it appears as though some more research is in order. I can see where the extra cost of balancing and upgrading hardware deffinately brings the costs more in line with one another

[Nightmist66]

I'm not trying to be a thorn in anyone's side here. I am just basing off of the title and main goal of this build. 1hp per cube and under 6000rpm with decent torque. Not to mention it sounds like it would be a budget build if possible. I would leave the stock main bolts, upgrade to the base ARP rod bolts, do all necessary balancing and so on. Do a magna flux check first. Maybe I'm missing something, but this is only a 390 trying to make 400ish hp and decent torque. We have had cast flat-top pistons in a 400hp 390 with a small shot of juice(75 or 100), and lived happily, with factory crank and rods too.

[67Rancher0]

I was looking to do this build along with gears for under 6 grand. Thought i was on the right track, but the closer it gets to the 8000 mark it makes more sense for me to build a 408w and AOD for 10000, and sell off the FE stuff to recoop some money. I was never really feeling warm and fuzzy about  not having an OD trans, but was willing to compromise because of keeping the build under a certain budget. I have constant cheap access to good windsor parts, but after 20 plus years of SBF motors i thought it would be cool do build something different like the 390.