Which bolt holes to use when hoisting the engine

[R-WEST]

As my F100 renovation continues at a glacial pace  it's finally time to put the engine/C-6 tranny back in.  We've done numerous FE's over the years, and we usually used a hole in the front of one head and rear of the other, with another attachment in one of the exhaust manifold holes in each side.  But, those were iron headed FE's, this one has Ed's.  Aluminum intake and water pump, too.
As noted, we'll be installing it with the tranny attached, so, there will be some weight.
My brother and I were looking it over tonight, and scratching our heads
Any input is welcome.
Thanks in advance!!

[ScotiaFE]

I used my cheapo china made adjustable and use both holes on the head ends.
Remember tranny goes in first.

[Nightmist66]

Remember tranny goes in first.

Oh, NOW you tell me

[Nightmist66]

Pulling the small block and t5(I know, I know) out of our fox mustang, we used the Moroso engine lift plate for the carb flange. It was an aluminum intake, rest was all iron, and used four grade 5 bolts without any problem. Your combo will be a little heavier, but I think you may still be alright going this route too if you decide. Also, I used the longest bolts I could fit into the intake for added assurance.

[cammerfe]

If you check the 'pull' load on a set of four bolts sunk into an aluminum manifold, I'm sure you'll find that you're alright. So putting bolts into a head so you have a shear load on the bolt shank gives a lot more elbowroom.

KS

[cjshaker]

I recently used my new Macs carb plate that allows tilting, to put the engine in my truck. It really is a very nice and stout piece that easily allowed me to tilt the engine to the perfect angle as I dropped it in. I'm pretty sold on those carb plates now, BUT, with that much weight, and at that steep of an angle, I'm not so sure I'd be as confident. Putting those small bolts on such a shear load as that angle is, I'd think they wouldn't be as stable, so I think I'd be more inclined to use the head holes like I used to, even if the heads were aluminum.

Has anyone used the carb plate when installing the engine AND transmission at such a steep angle as is required?

Here's the Macs carb plate that worked really well for me.

[Rory428]

On my iron headed FE, I have been using a carb lift plate for years to Re & Re the engine complete with flywheel, clutch assembly and (heavy) Lakewood scattershield in my Fairmont. I just use the 4 carb studs in my almost 50 year old Ford Sidewinder aluminum intake manifold, with no issues.
On my SB 85 Mustang, I use the same carb lift plate, and install the engine with the clutch, scattershield, starter, and passenger side header, which requires an extreme nose up attitude, again using the 4 studs on the aluminum intake manifold, with no problem.
One of the nice things about the carb plates, is the the engine hoist hook is a single pivot near the center, so turning or tilting the engine is easy, with no having to fight chains that are under tension. The plate also seals up the carb opening, keeping crap out.
Strengthwise, I think 4 5/16" studs in a straight pull, offer more strength than 2  3/8" bolts on a 90 degree angle pull. Plus you don`t have any chains riding on the valve covers, scratching or denting them.
For years I was skeptical about the use of carb plates, after using one, now I never use anything else.

[Nightmist66]

I forgot to mention, similar to what Rory said, we installed the motor in my dad's Fairlane with an egine lift plate as well. It is an all iron FE with a sidewinder. It was complete with steel blowshield, clutch assy., starter, etc. No trans. All we have ever used is the lift plate, never a problem. If it makes you feel better, use grade 8.

[Nightmist66]

I recently used my new Macs carb plate that allows tilting, to put the engine in my truck. It really is a very nice and stout piece that easily allowed me to tilt the engine to the perfect angle as I dropped it in. I'm pretty sold on those carb plates now, BUT, with that much weight, and at that steep of an angle, I'm not so sure I'd be as confident. Putting those small bolts on such a shear load as that angle is, I'd think they wouldn't be as stable, so I think I'd be more inclined to use the head holes like I used to, even if the heads were aluminum.

Has anyone used the carb plate when installing the engine AND transmission at such a steep angle as is required?

Here's the Macs carb plate that worked really well for me.

Hey Doug, I was waiting to ask someone that has used one of those. I saw it at Summit Racing, but the price kind of scared me off. In your opinion, do you think it is worth the extra money over the traditional "fixed" carb lift plate?

[cjshaker]

Jared, since I always have to work by myself, it was worth the money to me. I could put the angle exactly where I needed without having to hold it or have an extra set of hands that weren't available. It was also very easy  to adjust the tilt, the Macs piece worked very smooth and precise. I hate to tell someone else to spend more money on a tool, but to me at least, it was worth it. It's also a VERY stout piece, very well constructed.

Rory, having used the lift plate the last 3 times, I'm sold on them also. But having all the extra weight of a transmission, and having the engine at such a steep angle, it just gives me a little more pause. I had to use 2 plates when I put in my 427 with a 2x4 intake because using just the front or rear wouldn't work.

[Nightmist66]

Ok, thanks.

[R-WEST]

Thanks guys!!  Used one bolt in front, one in rear with my neato Crow webstraps http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Crow-Enterprizes-11645-Engine-Lift-Sling,47858.html from Speedway and got it done tonight.
I'll have pics over in the "Members Projects" section in a bit.
Pretty easy installing the engine with no front end on the truck!! 

[Qikbbstang]

Friend that was a Ford Industrial Salesman told me FoMoCo Industrial Div warned about carb flange mounted engine lift points on 302-351/460s. I believe there were reports of gasket sealing problems. Just because you can lift an engine by a given point does not mean the casting's are not deflecting. True those motors were all iron and heavier as a reasult, but then again does an aluminum head offer the rigidity of iron?