New to FE Power, thinking about a cam upgrade.

[Yellow Truck]

Kevin, it is an after market cap, here is the bottom of the cap. It has the PVC tube attached to the top. It is a reasonably tight fit.

[machoneman]

Your experienced pal (always a great thing!) can probably tell general bore condition and even ring gaps by merely popping the oil pan for inspection. If you also pop the heads, all the better for him to recommend what is or isn't needed as he'd have a clear sight at both ends of each bore. 

[Yellow Truck]

Thanks guys. We will get it apart this week and post some facts before we ask for advice.

[ScotiaFE]

That cap looks perfectly normal for a well used FE.
It's a stock Ford breather and is time for a redo.
You can get all the parts to rebuild it.
The brown disk is part of the gasket there is a black rubber disk that goes on the bottom.
Long gone no doubt.
Tangs are bent a tad.
It will always seep oil. It's suppose to.
Oil splash's right on the thing, how can it not leak.

[Yellow Truck]

Howie, I assumed that the baffle underneath the rocker cover would do a better job of keeping the splash down, but the main thing is it is not a sign of a bigger problem. When I pulled the bottom bell housing bolt on the driver side it was soaked in muddy oil, and the one above it was wet. The back of the engine was very wet with oil, some down from the rocker gasket, but I'm guessing the rear main seal is leaky.

I'll be asking for advice on gaskets when we have it open. I'm going to take more pictures, then clean it before I dismantle.

[ScotiaFE]

That all sounds perfectly normal.
No doubt the intake is seeping. Normal for a used FE.
Actually the rear main seal on an FE is one of the places you do not normally get a leak.
Now every other oil seal will leak.
The baffle is just a tin box that does it's best to keep the leakage to a minimum.
When you go for the big rockers you cut that thing out. lol

[Yellow Truck]

I have the engine out and the top off. Not really happy with what I see, I'll start a new thread and post pictures and start gathering information and ideas on a proper build, since this is no longer just a cam replacement.

One last question for this thread - I'd like to replace the alternator with one that doesn't require a separate voltage regulator. I'd like to clean up the under hood wiring while the engine is out. Any suggestions for an FE compatible one?

[machoneman]

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/ford-1-wire-alternator

[fastback 427]

I tried the summit 100 amp one wire for awhile. The only problem was I had to space the pulleys and alternator for clearance. It rubbed on the head.

[Yellow Truck]

I was hoping for a one word answer, seems it is a little more complex. I have seen some threads elsewhere on a 3G swap, but they are metric and I have a dual pulley 55 amp set up I stole off my F250 donor truck. It was a better alternator and I liked how the double belts looked.

I think more research is required.

[turbohunter]

Here's a thread from FTE for a 3G swap.
Pretty much gives you everything.
There are model lists and diagrams.
Have fun.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/942250-just-did-a-3g-upgrade.html

[thatdarncat]

I swapped my Mustang to a 130 amp 3G and love it. They also come in a 90 amp version. Jay runs the aftermarket Powermaster which is the same but available up to 200 amp. I'm going to do the same thing on my Cougar I'm working on. The advantages of the 3G are both the higher rating and that they have full output even at an idle. They are not a "1 wire" but I followed the same diagram Turbohunter posted a link to and it was easy. There were different versions of the 3G alternator body that have various mounting patterns, you want the one where the "ears" match the pattern and spacing on the Ford 1G you have. I don't have an application, the local alternator rebuilder here knew exactly what I needed. The 3G body is a little deeper, I just needed to shorten the spacer that goes behind the alternator to get the pulleys to line up. One thing I will pass along, the 3G was designed to run with a wide serpentine belt, using a v-belt will require either a dual pulley like you have or a larger diameter pulley to give the belt more grip or they will slip. The pulley shaft on the alternator is short, your dual belt pulley may or may not have a deep enough hole where the nut goes.

[Yellow Truck]

Thank you, Kevin. I've been wasting time reading up on this instead of working, and it seems the alternator pulleys area available as aftermarket parts. If I can't get mine to fit I might be able to buy one that does. Seems the triple pulley on the crank and double on the water pump is the tricky bit, and I've got those. I'm not completely clear on the difference between this and the "one wire" alternator, but I'll consider that as well. I think the Powermaster is the one wire deal.

[turbohunter]

Just to follow up Kevins' line of thought.
I have a single groove v belt pulley on my truck.
Everyday on start up there is a little chirp, then it's fine. But I have a real good tightening system with a pusher turn buckle.
I could tighten it enough to stop the chirp but I don't want to take out the bearing.
One of these days it will bug me enough to do something about it.

[TorinoBP88]

As you know most 360's have low compression, so the "GT" cam you have is acctually really big for that engine. ANd the S intake will not pull over 4500 RPM.  It was designed to be 800 to 4500.

The 410 may have 10.5+/- and will need a bigger cam in a truck for sure.

My main comment is if you go roller cam, that means much bigger springs, and you MUST get shaft end supports at the minimum.  I like Pump Builder stuff, but there are a few good options.