New to FE Power, thinking about a cam upgrade.

[Yellow Truck]

I love the fact you have numbers, Jay. BTW, went on line to see about buying your book. Can't get it on Amazon in Canada, must be subject to the Federal restrictions on exporting strategic technology!

Any way, I'm hearing you.

I'm still going to get it in the garage and get the top apart, then I'll be asking for some recommendations. I think I need to think heads, valve train, intake, and carb. I didn't plan on it, but life is too short to avoid having fun. I will think about a budget.

I will report back once we have looked at what we have.

[thatdarncat]

Jay's book is available direct from him right here on the website.

http://www.fepower.net/GFEIC.html

[ScotiaFE]

Another great read is Barry Rabotnick's rag.
Filled with great tips and LOTS of kool wish list items.

http://www.amazon.ca/How-Build-Max-Performance-Ford-Eng/dp/1934709158/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1425480552&sr=8-4&keywords=ford+fe

Also available from his spider web site along with all those wish list items.

http://www.survivalmotorsports.com/index.html

[Yellow Truck]

While looking around for used parts I came across a 427 side oiler block, crank, and connecting rods for sale. The block has been bored .030, I have read that the 427 blocks don't tolerate boring very well, in fact I recall reading that a 427 that requires boring must be sleeved.

Clearly this is a more expensive option than redoing the top end of my 410, but how do you put a price on fun. Question - what is the tolerance on a 427 for boring?

[ScotiaFE]

A .030" over block would not be a deal breaker, but there are so many things to think about
when stepping up to a 427 block.
Cost and then cost to get it ready to use.
You can buy a new block for a very fair price. imo
Those BBM blocks are bad ass and pretty much ready to use.
The crank and rods are a moot point. You have a better crank than the 427 crank and
most likely rods equal too or better.
So you are really only buying the block so you have to take that into consideration.

[Heo]

You can use the 410 crank in the 427 and get
i think 445 ci like they did back in the day
when there was no stroker kits for sale
but sonic test the block if possible before
you buy it

[Yellow Truck]

He is asking $1,800 for it, which is not a bad price, but condition is everything. It is a 7 hour drive away, so inspecting it is not trivial. I'll ask a few more questions before I commit to the drive.

I was thinking about putting my bottom end into it. Hard to not want a side oiler.

[jayb]

I've got a 427 sideoiler block that went .060", made 675 HP, and is still running fine.  Its one of the dyno mules I described in my book, and the sonic numbers were scary, but the engine has given me no trouble, even after hundreds of dyno pulls.  $1800 is a decent price, and probably worth the trip.  If you decide to go, make sure you bring some way to measure the bore to make sure it is only .030" over, check for cracks on the deck of the block and in the main cap bolt holes, and imperfections in the bore that may require a big overbore.  You can sleeve the blocks if necessary, but you can't sleeve two adjacent cylinders, because they will crack between the two sleeves at the deck, and you will lose coolant there. 

If you buy it, figure on getting it sonic checked so that you know what you've got.

[Yellow Truck]

Thanks guys, I'll see if he responds to me.

[ScotiaFE]

If at all possible have him send you pictures of it.
Specifying top, bottom, both sides, front and back.
Post them here and you will get a lot of input from the brain trust here.

 

[Yellow Truck]

Back to plan "A", the seller answered a few questions, then wrote that he had just sold it. I will keep my dream of owning a side oiler for another day.

[Yellow Truck]

I've been quiet while I got the truck out of winter storage, got organized, and yesterday got the engine out. It is an oil leaking pig. As I posted earlier, this engine was bought as is, so neither I nor my friends really know how it was assembled. I will be looking for advice on gaskets etc. later once we have completed the tear down and are in possession of more facts. I have one immediate question: You can see from the photo there is a lot of oil around the breather. I don't understand this and wonder if it is evidence of a deeper problem. I thought perhaps it indicated something under the rocker cover, but we pulled the cover and it looked fairly normal. Also pulled the plugs (E3s) and they all showed a light grey surface and a couple showed a very light reddish brown discolouration. They were very consistent.

[machoneman]

Could be blow-by, due to stuck or worn rings. I'd do a 8 cylinder compression test (warm, throttle wired wide open) and if you have the tools or can borrow same, a leakdown test. Low psi readings = time for new rings and maybe pistons too.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase

[Yellow Truck]

Bob - we were thinking the same thing. Too late for a compression test, engine is OUT. Bit hard to diagnose blow-by with the engine out, but was wondering if it seems excessive - the truck has 4 years of light summer driving on the engine - and if it is excessive, is there is anything else any one has seen cause it.

We are taking the top off, probably going with new heads, valve train, cam and intake. My friend is an experienced heavy diesel mechanic and has built some excellent gas engines, including an over the top 460 in his 68 F100, but this is his first FE.

[thatdarncat]

Could also be due to the 50 year old gasket on that cap. Is there even a gasket still there? Is it torn or rock hard? The tangs on the cap also get deformed over the years and the don't hold tight, is the cap a tight fit on the valve cover?