My 427 Build

[1967 XR7 GT]

Today after a closer inspection, I found the main caps had wear indentations from where the main cap bolts where tightened on the caps.  And because I am going to be running ARP main cap studs that use washers, the washers require a flat surface so the studs can be properly torqued.
It was a simple procedure to machine the top of the caps so to have a flat surface.

[jayb]

Nice attention to detail.  A lot of people don't think of stuff like that.

[1967 XR7 GT]

To expedite my line hone, I mounted & torqued the mains with spacers in place. I installed the spacers in the locations they were marked for with the nuts to the main cap studs hand tight, the spacers had some interference fit while installing them in their locations. Now after torqueing the mains, the spacers have loosened up and I am able to rotate them on the cross bolts.  Checking clearance, the smallest feeler I had was .0015" and was able to slide it between the block and spacer on 2 of them.


I have a question, what is the max clearance allowed for the cross bolt spacers ?

[jayb]

I'm pretty sure that there is no clearance spec on those spacers; they are supposed to be an interference fit, even after torquing the main cap bolts.  I assume you have this clearance with the cross bolts torqued in addition to the mains?  If so, I'd consider adding some shim stock between the cap and the spacer to get back to an interference fit.

[XR7]

You torque the main caps first without spacers or cross bolts in place. Then insert the spacers, they should be almost hard to get in there (have no clearance), but not have to "beat" them in. They have three sizes with a range from .3725 to .3775 so maybe you will have to replace a couple, or maybe you can try again, and possibly move spacers around to get a good fit. I believe Doug at Precision oil pumps may have made up some for people needing to dial that in.

Here is a Ford blueprint on the cross bolted caps, notice it says to torque the main caps first, then place the spacers, it also shows the correct sequence which is a little different than you would think. Also, torque the cross bolts in two steps (at least 3 steps on the main caps). Check it out...

[Bad Byrd]

Today after a closer inspection, I found the main caps had wear indentations from where the main cap bolts where tightened on the caps.  And because I am going to be running ARP main cap studs that use washers, the washers require a flat surface so the studs can be properly torqued.
It was a simple procedure to machine the top of the caps so to have a flat surface.

When my 406 was being built I remember this taking place as well, I would think it should be done with Bolts or studs! Like you I ran Studs so it was a must but probably a good idea to have it done regardless.

[1967 XR7 GT]

No, the spacers tightened up when the side bolts were torqued. I started doing some reading on this to get an idea and found it was a practice to dimple the spacer boss on the block to take up clearance, mentioned in this article: http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/mdmp_1209_aluminun_head_427_fe_real_iron_part_1/, but I would use shim stock to take up clearance before I would dimple the block.

I will just go slightly wider spacers, I checked Precision oil Pumps site but no spacers were listed, I'll make some if I have too.

XR7 thanks for the picture of the blue print, and it looks like the spacers need to be in place when the caps are torqued but not the cross bolts, which I thought having the spacers in when torqueing should be done. And I did find the torque spec's & sequence for the cross bolts and this spec for the spacers: .000" - .001", but that was the only one.

The only thing I did wrong was I should of put a pre-load on the caps instead of just tightening the nuts finger tight, then I would of seen the spacers clearance from the beginning.
 
Bad Byrd, I don't think it's as critical with bolts, to a point, but if I had stayed with bolts , I still would of cleaned up the caps.

I want the block work done so I can have the crank finished, then I'll install it and a cam then shelf it, so then I can focus all my attention on the 390 short block, which is mostly cleaning and assembly.

And guys thanks for all the good tips & help.

[1967 XR7 GT]

I had also posted the clearance question on FORD FE.com.

I wanted a number and now I got one: Find .000" then add .003"
now the fun begins.

[1967 XR7 GT]

I took measurements of the spacer clearances last week, I decided to set them all up with a +.001" to +.0015" interference fit.  I went ahead and ordered all new spacers made from the EDM shop.

I picked up the new spacers today, and did a test fit and everything has a nice tight fit. But there's a slight problem, the spacers were made from a heat treated chrome-moly material, and when I went to engrave the spacer locations on the spacers with an electric engraving tool it would barely leave a mark. I'll go by my buddies shop tomorrow and use his electric welding engraver that I have used before to number rods instead of using a numbers punch which can distort the big end of rods hammering numbers on them.

Looks like I will get the line hone done next week, then I can get the mains measured so the crank can be ground.

I have had the crank completely worked over, Bull Nosed the leading edge of the counter weights, and Knifed edge the trailing edges, just waiting on the main bearing specs so the mains can be ground, then it will be sent out to be nitrided.

[1967 XR7 GT]

The got the new spacers marked for their locations, installed and torqued. The line hone will hopefully get done next week, then I can get the bearings measured. I hate how some of this stuff just drags on.

[cjshaker]

Hey, that looks EXACTLY like a factory marking. That must have been how Ford did it.
This is exactly where FEs, especially cross bolted ones and sideoilers, require special attention by a machinist who knows what he's doing and is experienced with them. It does take more time and effort, but everything worth having does You're going about it the right way.

[428GT500]

Hello,
Who's doing the spacers? I am replacing main caps lost on my 427 and I will likely have to have new spacers made.

                                                                                Regards,
                                                                                           -Keith

[1967 XR7 GT]

Hi Doug

Thanks for the compliment, I've been working to get the crank and block done since October, mostly the block, which I should of stepped in 2 months ago to move things along so things would of been finished by now.  But actually it's been a good learning experience on the cross bolts, which I actually should know since I am the engine builder.
 
Hi Keith

I had them made here:

EDM Shop
1321 E Saint Gertrude Place # B
Santa Ana, CA  92705  Phone: (714) 424-0050

I took them one as a sample for general dimensions with the only critical dimension being the width. I had 2 made @ .378", 3 @.377" & 1 @ .3765". They all started by hand, but as they got farther in, it became harder to move them with more spacer surface contacting the block & caps, requiring to lightly tap them into location.  But after I get the bearings measured, I am going to take and open up the bolt holes slightly, the cross bolts fit the spacers fine, but a little extra clearance will make it easier to line up the spacer holes with the main caps for future assemblies.

[1967 XR7 GT]

I have a question, are any mods needed for the Cleveland bearings for oiling, I've not seen anything mentioned when they are used ?  The reason I am asking, the Cleveland bearings have a slot in the bearings that goes over the oil hole in the FE block where the FE bearings have a hole, I'll get a picture of the Cleveland bearings installed, FE pictured:

 

I found these pictures on line, 351 Cleveland block, it looks like the oil supply feeds the mains then the slot feeds the oil hole to the cam, so looks like I found the answer too my question.

 

[1967 XR7 GT]

I just picked up my 427 Crank with the extra center counterweights.