funny issue fe motor

[bartlett]

last night while stuck in a line of traffic going threw the car show My engine started to get alittle warm (215-220) and it started to miss/fuel problem.  It has me thinking that, 1 the heat soak is getting to the fuel system 2. The hot air is trapped under the hood and the car does not like the open element air filter. once I got going the problem went right away and not to return .  My first thought is the motor is not very hot and it should not be vapor locking ect at this temp,BUT it does have 92 sa fuel in it ... could this be a ethanol fuel issue? 

 I have always loved the thunderbolt dual snorkel style air cleaner ....so that is also a thought 

anyone ever had this happen ? fix,cure advise?

Sorry I dont have a fuel psi gauge on the car yet so I have no idea what it might have been doing.

[sixty9cobra]

more likely its the fuel boiling not hot air. The modern fuels don't like high temps in a low pressure fuel system. Make sure your fuel lines are not to close to the engine. That seemed to cure my problem somewhat. If I idle for long periods on a hot day my fuel pressure fluctuates allot. then it just shuts off and starts like its flooded once you get going a few miles an hr its fine.

[thatdarncat]

I'll second the fuel issue, that's where I would start. I've had this happen on a few of my older vehicles. Ethanol boils at 173 degrees so it really doesn't take much under hood heat to cause a problem. I've started running the non-ethanol gas when possible in some of my cars that don't get run every day both for the boiling issue and because I've found the ethanol seems to do a number on the rubber in the fuel pump and carb and the moisture the alcohol absorbs attacks the aluminum and zinc in the carb when they sit.  There are lists on the web of stations that sell it. I've found there can be a big difference in price, sometimes 70 cents/gallon between stations, so shop around. At the stations with the better price it's really not any more per gallon than the 92 octane. If it's not convenient to get the non-oxygenated gas I'd look at insulating or relocating the fuel lines. Both of these things have solved the issue's for me.

[jayb]

I'll third those remarks, but IMO the best way to fix the problem is to go to a return style fuel system.  That's what Ford did on its last carbureted cars, before going to all EFI.  With a return style fuel system the pump circulates fuel past the carb and then back to the tank, keeping it cool.  Without that, during low fuel use situations like sitting in traffic, the fuel will sit in the fuel line and get hot, and then reach boiling point much more quickly when it hits the carb.

I had this problem with my Mach 1 back in 2005, and the return style fuel system solved it.  They are a pain to install though, since you have to run a second fuel line back to the tank, and install a return style regulator.  Worth the trouble, though, in my opinion.

[bartlett]

does the non ethanol fuel cure it to ? the BP reopened by me and sells it.  I could do that .  I might also just do a few things to keep the fuel line area cooler ect to see if that helps.  If all that fails I will try the return line deal or just bite the bullet and do a fast system !

[thatdarncat]

I would guess the non-ethanol gas may solve the problem. If the car is just your cruiser and won't be more than a tank of gas away from your local station I would try that first. To be honest the vehicle I had the biggest problem with was my '78 Bronco that I had swapped in a 460 with headers and was both my daily driver and tow vehicle and I needed to be able to keep running the ethanol/gas blend available everywhere. On that vehicle I insulated the fuel lines and never had a problem again. My '69 T-Bird with 429 would also boil the gas. My friend uses that car bracket racing and we relocated the fuel line and never had a problem again. A couple of my other cars like my Country Squire I just use occasionally on nice days to work or a Sunday cruise and I just use the non-ethanol fuel and have not had a problem. The only problem with depending on the non-ethanol gas is if you're out driving around and need to fill up and can't find a station. I'm sure that was a concern of Jay's since he was using his '69 Mach 1 on DragWeek and needed to be able to fuel up anywhere. Also, most Fleet Farm's carry it and at a reasonable price if there is one near you.

[bartlett]

I think I need to spend some $$ in my fuel line setup.. Its lack luster and cheap  lol ... Im 90% sure I have found the problem area.  I have some 3/8 rubber line ran between the water pump and right under the thermostat housing and then upto the carb.  So yea it's real close to hot areas of the engine.  Its well hidden and clean looking but not real good for keeping cool.     

BP 1 mile from my house sells good fuel, I'm  just  not excited to rejet my carb for it ... and yea it does make a big air/fuel jump when I make the switch of fuels.

[GJCAT427]

Thatdarncat, what did you use as insulation on the lines? My 427 med riser in my 56 F100 has a heat soak on the lines from the frame up. Also Jay what did you use as a return regulator on the mustang?

[chris401]

Thanks for the info posted. I would like to also make a cool air charge also.

[My427stang]

Do you run a drop base air cleaner?

In Vegas I found that it acted like an umbrella, holding the heat.  Unfortunately most of us cannot run a flat base, that's is the reason I added my Boss 9 scoop when my car was carbed.

- Let me run a flat based air cleaner so air could move around the carb
- Let heat escape at idle

In the end though, unibody Fords just have horrible airflow behind the shock towers, unless you vent it and/or go EFI, you can never completely get rid of the heat issues at the extremes

[jayb]

Thatdarncat, what did you use as insulation on the lines? My 427 med riser in my 56 F100 has a heat soak on the lines from the frame up. Also Jay what did you use as a return regulator on the mustang?

Moroso makes one, and I used their's for a while with good results.  I ended up going to an Aeromotive unit later, and like that one better because it is easier to control the pressure.

[cammerfe]

'Fire Sleeve' does a glorious job of insulation. Use a size that is slightly loose on the line for maximum effect.

I believe FS is sized as ID so I think I'd try to go with half inch.

KS

[bartlett]

ks any idea what size I would need to order to fit over 3/8s line ? thanks .....

[comet2]

hey bartlet, last year i had very similar problem which grew worse as the weather warmed up i was blaming the fuel and everything else but it turned out to be crud that broke loose from somewhere in the cooling system and almost plugged the rad.a thorough flush cured problem for the rest of the summer but came back again this summer very similar to what you said so another session was in order . everything good now what i am saying is look at your coolant when it is cold sitting over nite then check after the car was driven  the amount of silt being proportional to the amount of overheating!!!!!i agree that the boiling point of the fuel is lower and it probably is boiling away but in my case all it took was a really good coolant system flush!!! good luck!

[chris401]

Was question for me? No, mine is a flat open 14" Taiwan in a pickup. I could almost get away with a roots blower without hood mods.

Do you run a drop base air cleaner?

In Vegas I found that it acted like an umbrella, holding the heat.  Unfortunately most of us cannot run a flat base, that's is the reason I added my Boss 9 scoop when my car was carbed.

- Let me run a flat based air cleaner so air could move around the carb
- Let heat escape at idle

In the end though, unibody Fords just have horrible airflow behind the shock towers, unless you vent it and/or go EFI, you can never completely get rid of the heat issues at the extremes