390 sled puller build

[FEsledpuller]

I'm planning to build my 390 in my 4x4 F100 for the local truck pulls. Its going in the Pro Street class which has a 408 cubic inch limit, so a stroker is not an option. The engine is getting a .060 overbore to bring it to 401 cubic inches. I'm wanting to know what I would need to make competitive power. The small block strokers seem to get to the 500 HP range without going too crazy, but I'm hoping to have a torque advantage over them. What kind of power numbers are achievable with an all motor 401 FE without turning crazy rpm's?

[BH107]

How serious do you want to make this, and what is your budget?

A good reference would maybe be Edelbrocks RPM kit. Their heads, intake, and cam make est 400 hp and 430 tq.

Probably the combo with the most potential would be a 352 block, .030" over, with a 428 crank. That would leave you with 406 inches, thicker cylinders, and more torque from the longer stroke. Of course this would require custom pistons, but it would maximize potential and strength. Add good heads and cam it to your desired rpm range.

[FEsledpuller]

For now I would like to stay with my current 401 short block so I can put more money into the heads and cam. I already have an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. What heads and cam would get me around 500 hp and torque to match? From what I have gathered the FElony heads are the best out right now.

[Qikbbstang]

type/selection. For sure grab a copy of THE GREAT FE INTAKE COMPARO by Jay Brown he compares dozens of FE builds and components
   http://fepower.net/GFEIC.html

[FEsledpuller]

I was thinking of ordering the intake comparo but would you say its better than Max Performance Ford FE book by Cartech?

There is no head or cam restriction. The only intake restriction is it can't be a sheet metal intake. Race gas is allowed, just no injectable like water, meth, nitrous, etc.

[bluef100fe]

With rules like that or a lack of rules... you need to decide how much money you want to spend and how much rpm you want to set the truck up for.... I have a 390 pump gas build posted on here that makes 450hp and 450 tq at only 6200-6300 and 4600 rpm.  Its under members projects section... its nothing special but it runs good. I don't see a problem making 500-600 hp out of a 390 with those rules especially if you can run any style cam, aluminum head, and cast intake you want. What about exhaust? I assume headers are allowed?

[FEsledpuller]

Headers are allowed. Exhaust has to exit at least 12" past the cab. I currently have 1 3/4 headers with 3" collectors. I was just going to run 3" tubes back to right before the rear axle and turn them down.

As for budget of course I want to get the most for the least, but I don't really have a set number. Even if I have to get parts over time, I would rather wait a little longer than to get a part I will want to upgrade down the road. I need to keep the RPM to where the factory rods and crank will be ok (with ARP hardware).

I have a hookup on the Edelbrock RPM heads that I can get for about $1250 new. I could maybe start there and down the road CNC them with bigger valves. But if FElony heads will make that much more power I would definitely consider spending the extra. I guess my concern is have too large of a head where due the the displacement restriction I have to turn really high rpm's to see any difference.

[BH107]

How well is the bottom end built? Did you sonic the block? What pistons are you running?

I don't know exactly what the perfect combo will be, but you'll need good heads, a big cam, and a good amount of compression to get there. Keep in mind that Barry's heads aren't quite making 500 hp on a streetable 445 at 5500 rpm. With more cam and compression you might get there, but it will shift your power curve higher and you'll lose some torque.

[FEsledpuller]

Block has been sonic checked. The rotating assembly has not been put together yet because I am waiting to choose pistons. I wanted to decide the pistons after I knew what the heads cc's would be so I can get the compression into a range I would want. With race gas I will want a decent amount.

I'm surprised Barry's heads didn't make 500hp. Looking at blueF100fe's build he got 450/450 from ported factory heads on pump gas..... Although you did say streetable. This truck will not see the street.

[cammerfe]

For a slightly different view, I did a thirty-over 390 several years ago. I started with a '64 PI engine and added a Comp solid roller, and a set of Dove F-5 heads and a Dove 'spider' manifold. The heads and intake were massaged and matched by Wayne Kuchtyn at 'Headwinds' in Westland, MI. We used Ross flat-top pistons which created about 11.5-1 compression and used 2.100 nailhead intake valves and 1.65 tulip exhausts from Ferrea. We chose the cam specs to approximate the street characteristics you might get from the use of the factory 'AA' cam.

It's more story than is necessary here, but the break-in pulls on a dyno at Roush's Livonia facility produced +/- 500 HP with a fat fuel curve and with only 32 degrees of ignition, so there was likely somewhat more to be had.

Barry's head design is, for all practical purposes, as up-to-date as exists and if you were to use them, or alternatively a pair of Dove's F-5 offerings, your goal is surely within reach.

Good Luck!

KS

[BH107]

Block has been sonic checked. The rotating assembly has not been put together yet because I am waiting to choose pistons. I wanted to decide the pistons after I knew what the heads cc's would be so I can get the compression into a range I would want. With race gas I will want a decent amount.

I'm surprised Barry's heads didn't make 500hp. Looking at blueF100fe's build he got 450/450 from ported factory heads on pump gas..... Although you did say streetable. This truck will not see the street.

Here is a link to Barry's 445 street build. It isn't very radical, but gives you a base line for 500hp. Take away the stroker components and add compression/cam and you can get there.
 http://fefordtech.com/index.php?topic=28.0

If you look at the Edelbrock Performer RPM combo you see that you have a long ways to go. The cam is 236/236 @.50 with .572" lift. You'll have to go pretty extreme with the compression and cam to get another 100hp out of the heads/intake combo and again that will take really reving it out too.

[jayb]

My recipe for 500 HP on this build would be something like this:

- Make sure the bottom end is good for at least 6500 RPM.  Aftermarket H-beam connecting rods and a lightweight forged piston would be good investments.  At the very least reconditioned stock rods and ARP bolts.  11.0:1 to 11.5:1  compression ratio

- Solid roller cam in the 250-255 degree at .050" range for the intake, lift in the neighborhood of .650"

- Survival heads with a mild porting job to get about 300 cfm on the intake port flow at .700" lift

- Stick with the Performer RPM intake to maintain your midrange torque, but port match it to the heads.

- At least a 750 double pumper Holley carb, maybe an 800 or 850.

- a cheap set of truck headers, where the tubes come straight off the ports at least a few inches before turning. 

This ought to make 500 HP with no problem when tuned correctly, and make the peak HP RPM around 6000.

[bluef100fe]

I believe Blair Patrick is a vendor for one of the best (light and a nice ring package) pistons available for what your trying to do.. I don't see you making 500 at 400 cubes with only 6000.... maybe 6500. Your compromising the build with the stock rods...especially in a truck pulling application. They do break... the question is when. Im sure you know pulling is very hard on parts. Ive done a hand full of FE truck pulling engines for people. I just can't understand why people want skimp on something as important as connecting rods but will spend big coin on aluminum heads that will get damaged if and when a rod or bearing fail. Getting a head fixed after a rod failure will generally cost you more in  repairs than just putting a set of scat or equivalent rods in from the start. And then when you get to a long or loose track and the engine wants to rev higher you don't have to be afraid to let it twist. I've been pulling on and off since before I had a license... the more rpm the better because that means more momentum at the end when the sled tries to stop you. Anyway good luck with your adventure pulling is addictive and so is drag racing which is why im poor because I do both part time

[FEsledpuller]

It sounds like it may be best for me to go ahead and build a 406 bottom end like mentioned above, with forged rods and pistons. I could just port the factory heads for now to add more budget to the short block and maybe the following year add some aftermarket heads...

[bluef100fe]

Ok since im spending your money anyway.... here's what I would do and it doesn't involve a 428 crank. Since you probably need to have a crank ground whichever direction you go... I will make another suggestion. Use whichever block you want. Take a 390 or steel 391 crank and have it offset ground for a BBC style rod journal for some more stroke. If Your buying rods anyway might as well use the better journal and gain the stroke and not buy a expensive 428 crank. Also BBC type rods are cheap, strong, and plentiful.  I will let you decide what block you want to use and how much stroke to get away with.  Go this route and you would have a darn nice, durable, and efficient short block. Only way, in my opinion, to get more durable than that is to crossbolt the mains...Get a nice roller cam or a nasty solid flat tappet and then finish it off with whichever heads best fit your budget at the time. If I had a roller cam and some more compression in my 390 im sure it would break 500 net hp with iron heads... so many ways to get a desired result lol... its so much fun spending other peoples money....good luck