*** Update with photos *** Burnout and tire hopping remedy?

[Tunnelwedge]

Here are my home made 67 Fairlane springs.
I did lots of burnouts on these. I might try again.

[manofmerc]

It would be easy to add a 1/2 leaf you can find single leafs at summit they are availabe to add height or lift on trucks .You just need to find one the same 21/2" width as yours .I had a spring shop make such a set of springs for my 66 comet . They (Landrum springs) built my springs with a 1/2 leaf going forward almost to the spring eye .Worked for me . I dont understand why you just dont try adding a bit of preload 1/4 turn wont hurt you .Doug

[TurboChris]

I'd toss the KYB's in the bin. Stock original oil dampers are better than KYB. Great marketing though.
QA1 adjustable are an excellent choice as are Viking.
Koni has some nice shocks.

There is a Koni for 66 Fairlanes? Nothing on their website. Do you know which ones?

[Tunnelwedge]

Koni's The picture shows a Koni 82-1389 and KYB 5517.
They both fit in my 67 Fairlane using my home made springs. The KYB is a tube of gas. And feels like it.
The Koni is a heavy duty tube of oil and feels like it.
The Koni has 3 settings soft, med and hard. You have to take them out to adjust them.
Med is kind a like a 50/50 drag shock.
You can get front Koni's they are 82-1698. Special order.
Mustang front Koni's can be adapted.
Worth the price of admission.

[fairlaniac]

Thank you all for your input. I have some additional questions.

I think I'll start with a pre-load adjustment and the leaf spring clamps. My springs currently have the "anti-squeak" pads between the leaf springs and a sheet metal clamp at the front. I've ordered some 2-1/2" clamps from Jegs. Should I leave in the anti-squeaks? Two of them are partially dislocated and sticking out the side.

Again, I am not making this a full out drag car. A street car with occasional trip to the strip.

Ref. - My rubber isolators (the hat shaped isolators at the pin) have long been gone.

Thanks,

[oldiron.fe]

   the pads at the end of your spring leaves sure are telling you what is going on--and why they are falling out-- CLAMP ALL THE LEAVES-- good oil filled 50/50 shocks will cure most of what is  going on -- you can stagger the shocks (428 mustang)     I have owned 66/67 fairlanes from late 66 to present! in 67 my fairlane was 2x4/crane cam/jardine headers/al flywheel/427-made good power---saw many 4000/5000 starts twisted some input shafts and had to weld straps to spring pads to axle as trying to bend/rotate --- tires were biggest 15 inch re caps I could get-----but no wheel hop--later used bars like the t-bolt deeper gears (4.57s) as main leaf tried to bend by front spring mount---still have my old 66 body with 3-4 inch long cracks at rear window/post from good old 427/toploader abuse--2x like Barry said --also used twist in wedge in front spring to load right rear-- 90/10 front shocks to help transfer weight-still put 1000s of highway miles on ride seemed OK for twenty something back in the day!!!         john oldiron

[Yellow Truck]

There is some pretty informed discussion here, at the opposite end of the spectrum, and not a track car but an overpowered pickup with severe axle wrap causing wheel hop, another member here told me about these:

[Tunnelwedge]

There is some pretty informed discussion here, at the opposite end of the spectrum, and not a track car but an overpowered pickup with severe axle wrap causing wheel hop, another member here told me about these:

The over rider type. Early Shelby's had over rider bars. I've not driven a car with over riders.
Nice springs, good shocks, some type of traction bar and good tires. It all works together.

[Barry_R]

In the end, without seeing what is happening, my assumption is the main leaf is the culprit, but not only the front, I have seen clamped front springs wrap in the rear as well and open between leaves to look like a bird spreading it's feathers.  If the perches are good, potentially verifying all spring clamps are good and in the right position to mitigate some of the movement as well.

I actually (somewhere..) have a picture of my car doing "just that" in the 1980s.  At one point I removed all the rear clamps.  Although it looks funky, it actually worked pretty well, in that the rear segment is not limiting the suspension travel.  Let it really crush the tire into the track back before the stiff sidewall slicks became "the thing".

[Jb427]

Has anyone looked at ute springs/Ranchero springs I use Australian falcon ute springs in my 66 fairlane they are a heavy duty spring over here i would think a ranchero spring should be the same heavy duty spring. I still run cal trac's as well i also run koni shocks on the rear set to medium setting.

[fairlaniac]

Koni's The picture shows a Koni 82-1389 and KYB 5517.
They both fit in my 67 Fairlane using my home made springs. The KYB is a tube of gas. And feels like it.
The Koni is a heavy duty tube of oil and feels like it.
The Koni has 3 settings soft, med and hard. You have to take them out to adjust them.
Med is kind a like a 50/50 drag shock.
You can get front Koni's they are 82-1698. Special order.
Mustang front Koni's can be adapted.
Worth the price of admission.

Are your Konis old? Looking on their website I only see gas charged shocks for '60's Mustangs. Which would be fine but still gas charged?

[Tunnelwedge]

Are your Konis old? Looking on their website I only see gas charged shocks for '60's Mustangs. Which would be fine but still gas charged?

They are not that old, and they show in stock at Summit.
If you take the VIA Rail in Canada the cars bogies have Koni shocks.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kon-821389/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1968

[fairlaniac]

Update! I got some Koni shocks (oil) and installed them in favor of the KYB's (gas). Also on the date of my original post  it was suggested to clamp the leaf springs. I figured pretty cheap and simple. I placed an order on Jegs and said it would ship 8/31/23. I had not received anything so today I called and they are on back order with a possibility of 12/8/23. $54 for four clamps I decided to cancel the order and make my own. I got some 1-1/4" wide x 1/4" bar. I ordered 1/2" u-bolts, might be overkill? Best I could find anywhere are 3" inside u-bolts. Try to find 2-1/2" inside u-bolts. I couldn't so I got these. I knew I'd have space where they might move around so I made some delrin sleeves to take up space. I still need to cut them to length. However after mocking them up I find I don't have much space from the inner tire wall to the edge of the bolt. About 5/16" I still need to fit my strap which would be at least another 1/4" from the inside hole edge to outside of strap. That leave 1/16" tire clearance. So this is a no-go. Even if I use 3/8" u-bolts it still wouldn't be enough space. I have 275/60/15 tires with back space that only has about an inch of clearance between tire wall and leaf spring edge. So I can only place one clamp on each leaf set and it will catch the top and next leaf. Seems I'd really need to catch 2 & 3 from top together to make this possibly work.

I enjoy making my own stuff but I may be S.O.L. and need to reluctantly get a mono leaf?

http://www.fairlanet.com/images/leaf-ubolt.jpg

[machoneman]

Doug, some OEM clamps were merely bent-up sheet metal steel pieces that had a tab on the inside. No u-bolts needed. The formed steel pieces were slipped over the leafs and the inside tab (facing away from the tire) was bent to clip into itself (tough to describe here). Yet, I don't know if anyone sells them today. 

These pretty much look like the ones I've tried to describe: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-00250?srsltid=AfmBOopdHFYKaVkJxPgERDH_eAXB37gycPxWSg6NRgcxl_qX-3gtM_gFWj4

[fairlaniac]

Doug, some OEM clamps were merely bent-up sheet metal steel pieces that had a tab on the inside. No u-bolts needed. The formed steel pieces were slipped over the leafs and the inside tab (facing away from the tire) was bent to clip into itself (tough to describe here). Yet, I don't know if anyone sells them today. 

These pretty much look like the ones I've tried to describe: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-00250?srsltid=AfmBOopdHFYKaVkJxPgERDH_eAXB37gycPxWSg6NRgcxl_qX-3gtM_gFWj4

Thanks you! I was under the impression that the leaves needed clamped so they don't slide or move around? the leaves currently have a stock sheet metal clamp but the leaves can slide in them? Some old picture I've seen were people using for example a 3/8" dia. square u-bolt with a clamp plate and clamped tight?

Thanks again!