Author Topic: Oil pan  (Read 1804 times)

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Skeeter65

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #15 on: May 18, 2023, 08:22:14 AM »
I’ve already purchased the long tube headers from FPA and this is a manual steering car with a toploader. Not sure what clearance issues I will have but if anyone has advice I’d appreciate it.

6667fan

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #16 on: May 18, 2023, 08:55:50 AM »
Do those FPAs have the swept back design/Tri-Y design? If so there will probably not be interference from numbers 1 & 5 tubes. Some header sets that have the front two cylinders on each side in front of the crossmember can be problematic with T pans as Rory indicated. ( or it could be 2 & 6 that tuck in back towards pan).
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Tunnelwedge

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #17 on: May 18, 2023, 09:54:25 AM »
I use Hooker small tubes. I also have a manual steer and stock clutch linkage.
I like the fit on my Hookers. Some don't. I can stab that baby in and yank it out with the pipes and trans on.
You should be fine with the FPA. As long as they fit your exhaust ports.
Pretty sure they make different port locations.
I'd say the biggest issue, don't forget to put the washer on the driveshaft. ;)

FERoadster

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #18 on: May 18, 2023, 10:10:12 AM »
What about the Aviad Cobra style pan? Expensive but large capacity and baffled. The builder of my 427 CO put one on for me.
Would it fit a Mustang?
Richard >>> FERoadster

Skeeter65

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #19 on: May 18, 2023, 12:28:45 PM »
I spoke with Stan when I placed my order for the headers and let him know my application and he advised the correct set to go with. They are the tri-y style.

427John

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #20 on: May 18, 2023, 04:41:57 PM »
At some point around 1966 or 1967 I think the slant front pan with the reliefs for the steering came about, I think they were originally for the Mustangs and Fairlanes but were used in a lot of if not all full size Fords too. I've seen a few late 60's full size cars that still used the old pan but don't know for sure if they were the original. The pickups used a pan that appears similar to the old style car pan, I've seen some Fairlanes that didn'f have the relieved pan but again don't know for sure if they were the original pan, so apparently they do work on the shock tower cars but to me they look out of place on them.

Tunnelwedge

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #21 on: May 18, 2023, 05:57:33 PM »
One issue that may come up Skeeter is the sway bar.
The front sway bar on the Mustang is very close to the front of the Canton.
So close that it will rub the coat of paint on the front of the pan.
I have an Addco FE bar. Just something to watch for.


GerryP

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #22 on: May 18, 2023, 06:57:54 PM »
The sway bar can be repositioned easily by just drilling the frame rail to where the mount needs to go.

6667fan

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #23 on: May 18, 2023, 07:05:24 PM »
The sway bar can be repositioned easily by just drilling the frame rail to where the mount needs to go.

Yep, my 67 has multiple sets of sway bar holes. If a big bar does not interfere with pan it might get cozy with a large balancer while the car is up on ramps with engine running.
WTF are those sparks coming from?
JB


67 Fairlane 500
482 cid 636/619.
Tunnel Wedge, Survival EMC CNC heads, Lykins Custom Hydraulic Roller, Ram adjustable clutch, Jerico 4-spd, Strange third member with Detroit Locker, 35 spline axles, 4.86
10.68@125.71 1.56 60’

Tunnelwedge

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #24 on: May 18, 2023, 08:12:13 PM »
No you can not just drill holes and move that bar. Not on a 67/68 Mustang.
The link has to sit perpendicular to the lower arm. That point is fixed. If you pull the link
you will pull on the arm. That will toss the alignment.
With my car it's a happy medium. Pretty much everything is not stock so I must make some
compromises here and there.
Not all sway bars are bent the same also.
Even from the same company.
I have 3 Addco #715 FE bars for 67/68 Mustang and they will also fit 66/67 Fairlanes.
They fit nicer in the Fairlane's than they do in the Mustangs. My experience.
And all 3 have a different look. I also cut the links down and shim the mounting blocks to to get the bar more flat "I guess that's how you say it".
It's a big bar in a small space. :)

My427stang

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #25 on: May 18, 2023, 09:05:03 PM »
I haven't seen any issues with the correct BB sway bar, I have an aftermarket and a ton of room on mine, and used a factory CJ with the T-pan as well prior to the big bar

As you pointed out, not all bars are the same, my guess is yours may not be the  best fit for a Mustang.  I do agree it should be as straight in each direction if you can, but in use, it's never straight or aligned, the bar ends and lower control arms all travel in different arcs

Also, the sway bar mounting location doesn't affect alignment, in any way The upper arms are fixed, the lower arm is located by the strut bars and the frame mount, the only thing moving the sway bar (assuming you needed to) would potentially side load the sway bar end link itself
« Last Edit: May 18, 2023, 11:02:08 PM by My427stang »
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

preaction

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #26 on: May 18, 2023, 10:29:50 PM »
Doesn't the Mustang use a pan that has relief's for  tie rod clearance and for the Fairlane this isn't  needed ? IIRC
Pretty sure both my 69 Fairlane Cobras and my 69 & 70 R code Mach 1s all had the relieved oil pans, with a shallow rear section. The PU trucks and 58-64 big cars did not have the recesses and had a deeper rear section. On my 59, I am running a Canton deep sump pan, which has 2 swinging trap doors, 1 each in front and behind the oil pump pickup.  It is advertised as a 7 quart (with filter pan, and the sump has a flat bottom, that is just over 7" deep, and isn`t really that much deeper than a stock pan, and has plenty of ground clearance. That said, if a car is much lower than factory, that could change. As for the T pans, be aware that some headers will not clear those oil pans without modifying.
The OP said the motor and pan were from a 67 Fairlane.

Tunnelwedge

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #27 on: May 19, 2023, 01:16:33 AM »
Another thing I did was drill holes to lower the upper arms. Arning Drop. That moves the outside of the lower arm up in the arc. And pushes the sway bar link up. That's why I cut the link. The biggest issue is I can only align the car when it's stopped and the arms and sway bar are not moving. If he is going to drill holes in his car to change the steering, I recommend he does the Arning drop first.

Tunnelwedge

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #28 on: May 19, 2023, 01:41:29 AM »
I was watching NASCAR years ago and they put a camera in the front wheel well for a race. It was a long time ago ok.
Well the next week the camera showed that they moved the spring mount and few other mods.
We think we see something and then in a different view things change.
My experience is from what I see.
I hope Skeeter has as much fun with his Hot Rod Mustang as I have with mine.  :) 

Skeeter65

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Re: Oil pan
« Reply #29 on: May 19, 2023, 08:20:32 AM »
Preaction, you are correct. The motor originally came out of a 67 Galaxie 500 but all I’m using from it is the block and distributor. I’ve had the Mustang since 1989 but back when I bought it the drivetrain was long gone but it is originally an S Code 4 speed car.