361 Industrial Engine/ Austin Healey Roadster

[wsu0702]

John, I think your right!

I looked on the mustangtec site and I found a CJ block that looks a lot like my block. They call it a '70 CJ block but, I think it started life as a Industrial/Truck block, with the boss and threaded hole, for the truck oil pickup and the plug for the compressor oil return.

http://mustangtek.com/block/1970428CJBlock.html

It also has no casting number, heavy C scratch and a date code like mine.

Anyone want to take a stab at what a W 1 or I means?

Yep that block on MustangTek is for sure an FT block.  No one knows for sure but the most popular theory is that the "W1" and "E1" above the date code indicate which casting line the block was cast in.

Edit:
After looking more closely at my 4 digit number, I think I see that same 0 with the same 2 dots under it so it would be a '70. staring at the second digit, it looks like it might be a G so, Sept and then, maybe the 16th.

[frnkeore]

Well, I got my TFS heads for this build today. They were about 1 week late (not Brents Fault) because FedEx is having issues with not having enough employee's in the Portland area. They were waiting in a trailer, to be sorted, to my area. I think me calling them, hurried it up. So, be aware anything going threw Portland, may be late, to arrive!

I spent the rest of the day, looking them over and measuring things. The valve spacing is 2.025, as opposed to the stock 1.980 of the LR valve and lifter spacing. The CL of the LR valves is offset .170 and TFS, offset is .160. So the increased push rod angle, will be nearly centered on the lifters.

I haven't fully sonic tested this block yet but, I did a few spots when I was doing my Edsel engine and there is a lot of cylinder wall in it. Based on the spots I measured, I can go at least 4.16 on it but, I don't think I'll go more than 4.13. I sent a quote request to RaceTec today for 4.13x3.83 pistons. This block doesn't have 428 in the water jacket but, I believe it is a little thicker than even those. As I said .187 won't go all the way threw the cyl gaps.

I have the rods in hand and they are Eagle, H beam LS rods, 4340 steel, ARP 7/16 2000 bolts, 6.560 long. I measured them yesterday and the big ends are at the low end @ 2.2245 and the small ends are .928 and they weigh 643g. Nice rods! I'll put a picture up, when I get the sonic done on the block. They have more @ $350 a set, if you interested in offset grinding a crank.

ATTN Jay.
If you could move this over to the Project section, It would save a lot of re-writing on my part.

 

[frnkeore]

Here are pictures of the rods.

I forgot to mention that the C-C length, was with in .0002 of 6.560.

[frnkeore]

It's been a while since I've up dated this so, here the newest info.

I did a sonic test on it with the same tester as Jay uses and the result are pictured. It's a very thick block! It does have one thin area, 3.5" down, on the minor side, that's .188. The bore will be 4.150 so, that still leaves .138 and that still leaves room for a final bore of 4.190.

Regarding the accuracy of these testers, mine seems to be, overall within 2%. I checked the front and rear china wall about 6, or more times, while doing the measurements. The front dist cut out measured .216 and my readings ranged from .212 - .215. The rear oil plug cut out, measured .184 and measured .180 - .182. But, that #4 cylinder was concerning so, I averaged the side wall thicknesses with the exception of the outside of the end cyl on both banks and got .204 average, for the 12 positions, 3.5 down. In my cyl gap testing, a .187 Allen wrench, wouldn't go fully between the walls at the Welch plug holes so, if I use .180 as the gap, that would come out to be .200 wall thickness (4.63 - .180 - 4.050 = .400/2 = .200). That's were I get my 2% accuracy, is the difference between the measurements.

I got the pistons on order. They're coming from Ross, through Mark, at Probe. The bore is 4.150 and the rings are 1.5x1.5x3mm, the ring Set is Nitride Stainless Top _ Napier Second _ Flow Vent Low Tension Oil. Flat top with minimum depth valve relief for .700 lift. They have a 8 week lead time.

Next, the intake. I had a Dominator and 850, that I was going to use to get the engine going but, Brent put his Tunnel Ram, up for sale so, I bought it. I would like to run the Dominator first and then swap out the TR but, I might just run the TR and be done with it???

[410bruce]

That's great, Frank! Glad your block is one of the good ones.
That tunnel ram set-up is awesome. Looks purposeful and intimidating. 

[frnkeore]

Thank you, Bruce.

If nothing else, it will be a beauty queen

[frnkeore]

Well, it's been a few months since I've updated this. I've got most of the parts now. And here are the spec's:

Jay's adapter
Weiand TR, and pair of 4150, 660 cfm carbs
TFS heads
Eagle 6.560 rods, 2.100 big end, .928 small
361 crank, offset ground to 3.81 stroke w/2.100 journals
Custom FT, 2618 Ross pistons, 4.150, 1.5x1.5x3mm
Shell SFT lifters, 263 x 269 @ .050, .615 x .630 Jones cam. Jones couldn't get a core to grind so, I went to a similar timed Bullet Cam.

I'm also, building my own water pump and drive stub for this engine.

My original intent for this engine, was as a dyno mule and it still will go on the dyno but, I came across the ad, for this car on Friday and bought it on Sunday. It is a Austin Healey replica, call a Sebring II, by Classic Roadsters Ltd and I will install the 412 in it, most likely, with a C4 trans and a 9" rear (it has a Must II in it now).

The engine bay, is pretty wide,  I think I can get a FE in it but, they are made for SBF & SBC.

I love the Austin Healey body, I had a 100-6, in Sept '62, after getting out of HS. It was the first car I bought, on my own. I personally think they look much better than the Cobra's.

I believe the car will weight between 2500 and 2700 lb, when finished. I'm going to try to set it up, to take both the FE and the SBF so, it can be a rolling dyno.

The first picture is my 100-6, from '62, after I had it painted Ford Aquamarine blue.

[GJCAT427]

Frank what did you do with the stock flywheel and clutch assy?  I`m looking for some FT stuff for a truck I`m building. It's going to be for hauling my car trailer around. Garry (GJCAT).

[frnkeore]

I still have it all, in good condition but, it has some rust.

[frnkeore]

I had to change cam suppliers, because Jones couldn't say when he could get a blank to grind it. I went with Bullet and similar timing. It is now 264/272 @ .050, lift .645/.640, both cams with asymmetric lobes.

I also thought that I would add a link, to the weight reduction I did on the intake:

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=10538.0

Next up will be the Dominator, IR modification I'm doing on the TR base. Should have that done in 2 or 3 weeks.

[frnkeore]

I made a little more progress, in the last week. I picked up a matching 4500 carb and I found a Top Loader for it.

The carbs, look absolutely awesome, setting on the TR lower and they are 5lb lighter than the Weiand upper, with the two 660's.

The TL is close ratio, off of a 70's 351c 4v and is a small in & out but, I think it will be fine for this ~2600 lb car. I weighted it and with the Hurst shifter, it's 110 lb. I'm now going to order a 52" wide (across the axle flanges) 35 spline rear axle. I could probably get by with a 31 spline but, they are the same price.

I thought I would add is update, that I did in another thread:

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=11054.0

[frnkeore]

I've made some progress on this combo.

I now have the intake options finished. I now have the original 2 x 660, 2 x 1050 plenum and 2 x 1050 IR. The 2 x 1050 plenum are 2 upside down super suckers, to feed the runners evenly.

The rear end is a Dutchman, 35 spline, with a Quick Performance aluminum, 4 bolt spool, with a 3 link mounting, of my design. 14" wheels, with 14 x 27.7 tires.

I had a thread on the roll bar problem I had and finally have it resolved. My fab guy, talked to the NHRA inspector a couple of weeks ago and got approval to do a cage like a hard top and will certify it to 8.50. This will be done on Sat (3/25) and that's a big load off me. I had been worrying about that, since I got the car.

[machoneman]

So what is you estimated hp with this engine combo? Btw, your massive amount of work to lighten the intakes is amazing. We also need a pic of the entire car so far if that's not hard to do.

[frnkeore]

Thanks for the kind words on the intake.

I'm figuring on ~650 hp.

I'll take some more pictures after I get it home on the trailer, tomorrow or Sunday. Then I have to disassemble the rear end and do the finish machine work on it.

[frnkeore]

Well, it was a real "nail biter" on Sat!

I misunderstood my fab guy. It wasn't the inspector he talked to, it was the track operator. It turns out that the inspector was a old school guy and went strictly by the book. He failed me They (fab and operator) were looking at convertible rules, which I hadn't looked at and are apparently kinda vague. Still haven't looked at them.

The inspector discounted the convertible rules and looked at it as a roadster. That because it didn't have a "removable hard top, like a C1 Corvette or 55-57 T-bird. These are VERY screwy rules!!! With NO other differences, you can run a door slammer cage on a open top car IF it came from the factory as a option with a removable HT! So, I told him that they did come that way but, he said I'd have to show him. I went home and found the evidence and called him and he came yesterday, took pictures of my screen shots and certified it. WHAT A RELIEF!! Between tubing, labor and cert, I have $4900 in this cage.

He turned out to be a very nice guy and told me I can upgrade it to 7.5 with a few mods and explained them to me as well as giving me the NHRA drawings to do it.

Like I said, the rules are screwy, you do not have to run the removable HT BUT, you have to run a "convertible type rag top", over the cage! It doesn't even have to be attached to a windshield, just the bars.

Anyway, here it is in it's certified state.