My pinion was down almost a degree, 0.8.  The engine/transmission is down 5.2 degrees.
I removed the ladder bars and measured them, finding they were set at slightly different lengths.  I shortened the shorter lower bar 1/4" and made the other lower bar the same and made the upper bars the same.  After putting them back in place I found the pinion was pointing up just under one degree. 
I pulled them out and made the lower bar 5/8" shorter.  The snubber had to be removed as it was against the bracket over the pinon before I could get the ladder bars back in place.
Now the pinion angle is 2.8 degrees up. 
I cannot take much more out of the lower bars so I will have to lengthen the upper bars if I want to raise the pinion angle. 
My drive shaft length will be about 42 inches. 
I did remove a couple of leaves on each side in the front springs to loosen the front end.  And the car doesn’t have the doors, radiator, and the complete engine in it yet so maybe I’m getting ahead of myself. 
I think I will wait until I have the car closer to completion before I adjust this anymore.

Having fun with the McLeod hydrualic throwout bearing. 

The first one leaked and was replaced.  Both were very hard to slide on to the TREMEC T56 Magnum six speed's transmission guide tube.  They fit so tight that the light coat of paint on the guide tube came off in several places as they slid on.   Got the initial adjustment done without any problems.  The transmssion went in OK.  I had to buy bolts because i wanted a full thread bite and I wanted washers under the lock washers so the lock washers couldn't dig into the aluminum case.  Discovered the rear tranmission mount will accept the toploader mount and built a cross memeber and frame mounts. 

But all is not well with the throwout bearing.  Bleeding the throwout bearing did not go well.  Took several tries as the drain line would pop off and the small master cylinder would go dry.  Had to use a long line that went clear to the floor (the car is on my lift) and a hose clamp to keep the line in place.  I still managed to let the master cylinder get dry and had to start over.  I finally got the pedal to stay off the floor. 

Now the travel is only about 1-1/2 inches, about what I expected.  But the throwout bearing stays on the fingers of the pressure plate.  I thought it would retract when the pedal comes up to the top of its travel. I used a long skinny screw driver to reach in and lightly pry it back and it did move back easily.  I'm working alone and cannot see if the pressure plate is releasing the disks. 

Is this normal for the throwout bearing to remain against the pressure plate fingers?  I have no experience with these multifinger pressure plates.  I've only used the long style with three fingers.

I still have to build a pedal travel limiter/stop. 

And this is just a mock up engine. Just a heads and a crank to mount the flywheel, etc in the back and a front dampner to let me setup the pulleys, etc in the front. I'll have to do all of this again when I put the real engine in. 

I need a transmission mount for a Tremec TKX 6 speed.  I tried to fine one on their site but they don't list or even show transmission mounts.

Summit doesn't list one on-line.  I hope their sales agent knows what will work.  I need to build the cross member.

Thanks

It started out as a gasser project.  But the rules for A/Gas today is only one carb, so that's out.  Maybe Competition Coupe but I haven't verified the carb limits there.

Or some tyoe of AFX nostaglia car. 

I just want to try to see how fast and quick I can go, setting personal bests so the class thing is not important.  I do not expect my eighty year old reflexes will get me more than the first round in any class.

Would those work with a standard 3.5 crank? 

Somebody recommended "Quick Performance" in Ames, IA for gears and axles. 

I just recieved a center section "pumpkin" with a Strange nodular iron case, 35 spline Detroit Locker, aluminum pinion support support, and 1350 yoke.  I supplied the 4.71 ring and pinion gear set and they assembled it.  They also supplied the 35 spline axles  I needed.  Less than $2000 total. 

They were easy to work with, had ansers for my questions, and did not hesitate to allow me to supply the ring and pinion.

Highly recommended.

482 BBM block 4.25x4.25, Blairs Edelbrock ProPort heads 12.1 compression ratio, Bullet 0.730 Lift solid roller cam, two 850 Holley double pumpers on a tunnel wedge intake, custom built over the frame rail headers.

My ’70 Maverick race car has a rear coil over conversion.  When I put it on the lift, the left rear spring is loose, about 11 inches long and right one is tight about 9-1/2 inches long.  They appear to be QA1 but I can’t locate a listing for the numbers on them.  The shocks are nonadjustable.

The front suspension is a straight axle using a pair of leaf springs.  Total weight was 1392 pounds without an engine, transmission, and accessories such as battery, gas tank, headers, etc.  I’m estimating 2300-2500 pounds total when the car is race ready.
 
I’ve never set up a coil over rear suspension.  I looked at several YouTube videos, but none of the videos address why one spring would be completely loose and the other tight.  I am guessing that the preload is correct on the right one add the left needs to be tightened. On leaf spring setups I use a extra leafs on the right and when I setup Air Lift Air bags, I put a higher pressure in the right air bag. 

Would setting length of the left one at about ¼ inch longer that the right be a good place to start?