My '70 Maverick drag car.

[Jb427]

Just seen this build I had to have my throw-out bearing custom made Big shaft top loader they replace the front cover as part of the setup
Here are some photos Mal woods made mine to suite a lakewood scatter shield

[bsprowl]

I don't expect to compete for any class records.  I just want to make some quick and fast passes.  I would be very happy to get into the 8s.  I think the mid nines might come but a lot depends on how quick I learn about setting up a coil over suspension.

[bsprowl]

I need a transmission mount for a Tremec TKX 6 speed.  I tried to fine one on their site but they don't list or even show transmission mounts.

Summit doesn't list one on-line.  I hope their sales agent knows what will work.  I need to build the cross member.

Thanks

[bsprowl]

Having fun with the McLeod hydrualic throwout bearing. 

The first one leaked and was replaced.  Both were very hard to slide on to the TREMEC T56 Magnum six speed's transmission guide tube.  They fit so tight that the light coat of paint on the guide tube came off in several places as they slid on.   Got the initial adjustment done without any problems.  The transmssion went in OK.  I had to buy bolts because i wanted a full thread bite and I wanted washers under the lock washers so the lock washers couldn't dig into the aluminum case.  Discovered the rear tranmission mount will accept the toploader mount and built a cross memeber and frame mounts. 

But all is not well with the throwout bearing.  Bleeding the throwout bearing did not go well.  Took several tries as the drain line would pop off and the small master cylinder would go dry.  Had to use a long line that went clear to the floor (the car is on my lift) and a hose clamp to keep the line in place.  I still managed to let the master cylinder get dry and had to start over.  I finally got the pedal to stay off the floor. 

Now the travel is only about 1-1/2 inches, about what I expected.  But the throwout bearing stays on the fingers of the pressure plate.  I thought it would retract when the pedal comes up to the top of its travel. I used a long skinny screw driver to reach in and lightly pry it back and it did move back easily.  I'm working alone and cannot see if the pressure plate is releasing the disks. 

Is this normal for the throwout bearing to remain against the pressure plate fingers?  I have no experience with these multifinger pressure plates.  I've only used the long style with three fingers.

I still have to build a pedal travel limiter/stop. 

And this is just a mock up engine. Just a heads and a crank to mount the flywheel, etc in the back and a front dampner to let me setup the pulleys, etc in the front. I'll have to do all of this again when I put the real engine in. 

[bsprowl]

No one had an answer to my question on the throwout bearing isue in the my last post so I emailed the McLeod help guy asking about the failure of the throwout bearing to retract from the pressure plate fingers.

His response was quote:

Thank You for your support of McLeod Racing.

Your question is very common amongst people that don’t know how the hydraulic bearing works.

When you initially install the bearing on the guide tube and measure your “A” and “B” dimensions to set your air gap.

Lets says its .200”

You then put fluid in the system, bleed all the air out of the system, and then press the clutch pedal to dis-engage the clutch the first time.

From that very moment, the .200” clearance originally set has now transferred to the backside of the piston.

The bearing will be constantly riding on the fingers for its entire life.

Now. As the disc wears and the fingers rise towards the bearing, the fingers push the bearings piston back into its cylinder bore and back to a compressed position.

This design is very similar to a brake systems calipers and their internal pistons that actuate the brake pads against the rotor.

I hope this helps.
 
Kind Regards,

unquote

I am surprised at his statement:  "The bearing will be constantly riding on the fingers for its entire life."  It seems like the bearing life will be short, but I guess I'll find out. 

[jayb]

Bob, I think that since it is a hydraulic connection, rather than a mechanical connection forced by a spring, the lifespan will be fine.  I have a hydraulic throwout bearing in one of my Mustangs with a T56 Magnum transmission, and it has not given me any trouble after 5+ years.   It is in constant contact with the clutch fingers.

[bsprowl]

My pinion was down almost a degree, 0.8.  The engine/transmission is down 5.2 degrees.
I removed the ladder bars and measured them, finding they were set at slightly different lengths.  I shortened the shorter lower bar 1/4" and made the other lower bar the same and made the upper bars the same.  After putting them back in place I found the pinion was pointing up just under one degree. 
I pulled them out and made the lower bar 5/8" shorter.  The snubber had to be removed as it was against the bracket over the pinon before I could get the ladder bars back in place.
Now the pinion angle is 2.8 degrees up. 
I cannot take much more out of the lower bars so I will have to lengthen the upper bars if I want to raise the pinion angle. 
My drive shaft length will be about 42 inches. 
I did remove a couple of leaves on each side in the front springs to loosen the front end.  And the car doesn’t have the doors, radiator, and the complete engine in it yet so maybe I’m getting ahead of myself. 
I think I will wait until I have the car closer to completion before I adjust this anymore.