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Messages - PaulProe

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1
I am using an XS975 in mine. Also used one in my previous cobra.

Works fine, no issues.

Paul

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fidanza flywheel - ring gear
« on: June 23, 2025, 11:18:30 AM »
It appears to be a factory one, but modified by Fidanza - there are some retainer bolts in the flywheel that overlap the edge of the ring gear in some milled reliefs

But I can't get any info from Fidanza - hell of a way to run a company. Don't think they will remain on my approved vendor list

3
FE Technical Forum / Fidanza flywheel - ring gear
« on: June 21, 2025, 09:46:21 AM »
I am running a Fidanza aluminum flywheel on my FE. Part number 186541  I might be looking at repairing the ring gear due to some starter issues. Does anyone know if it uses a stock Ford ring gear or any tips on replacing it?

I have tried contacting Fidanza multiple times, via emails, phone calls, and messages left, but I can't get through to anyone. It might be a great product but their customer service sucks - enough for my rant

Does anyone have any experience with replacing one on a Fidanza wheel?

Thanks

4
FE Technical Forum / Starter Issues
« on: October 28, 2024, 10:14:33 PM »
I am having some starter issues and it is compounded by not knowing the best terminology to use the search function on the forum.

I am running a PowerMaster 9606 starter on a 468 Shelby Aluminum block in a replica cobra. Battery in the trunk, #2 cables to the starter. Fuel injected EightStack, the timing is held at 12 degrees until the motor is started and gone 100revs, then it switches to ECU Timing control at about 14 degrees, minimum. 10.5:1 Compression.

When I start the engine, it loads (lugs) real hard for the first few revs before the torque of the starter takes over and starts to spin the engine. Sometimes it almost stalls before it turns over freely. Occasionally I get a 'bump-back' as if a cylinder fired and pushed back before TDC.

Engine temperature doesn't seem to be a factor. I seems to operate the same whether Cold, Warm or Hot.

At PRI, I spoke to PowerMaster and got nowhere. They said their 9406 was the way to go but I honestly don't think the guy knew much about his products. The 9406 has 250ft/lbs, the 9406 has 180. The 9406 is considerably stronger than a stock starter which many similar builds get by with.

The bump back almost seems timing-related but I can't imagine 12 degrees causing this. Cross-fire maybe?

Open to any ideas on where to begin.

Paul

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: Toploader hydraulic throwout bearing
« on: September 07, 2024, 08:22:29 PM »
JB427  I am hoping to learn from your experiences. I am running a Lakewood bellhousing with a Ford short shaft TKO600 (TCET4617) and a McLeod pressure plate. The clearance for a hydraulic bearing is minimal and it looks like the Malwood may fit. Do you know what size master cylinder you were using?

Paul

6
I'll throw out a question to the brain-trust here.

I want to build a 347 for a replica vehicle build. Any suggestion as to a Ford block to use for the basis? I read the Boss blocks were the best choice. Is that correct? If so, is there a good second choice as rare as they are?

Paul


7
FE Technical Forum / Re: Borla / Ingelese 8 Stack?
« on: May 10, 2023, 07:25:14 PM »
I built a second car and in it put a Shelby Aluminum FE with TrickFlow heads and the Borla EightStack again.

What size engine on that one?

2nd engine is 4.25 x 4.125   468ci

8
FE Technical Forum / Re: Borla / Ingelese 8 Stack?
« on: May 09, 2023, 10:24:52 PM »
I have successfully run two Borla EightStack systems. I don't understand your tuner's comments about low end/street performance. That may hold true for a true Weber 48IDA setup, but not for fuel injection. I found the exact opposite. I transitioned from a Weber carb system to the first EightStack and all my driveability issues went away. That engine was a bored/stroked 390 - 432ci with a mild cam. The Borla system gave it a new life making it a very enjoyable engine in my cobra replica

I built a second car and in it put a Shelby Aluminum FE with TrickFlow heads and the Borla EightStack again. The car idles at 800-850 rpm, pulled 575 on the  dyno and last week, on a 500 mile cruise, produced 17.7mpg.  I have had my best luck using a Performance Electronics ECU. I've worked on multiple other systems and found the FAST products left a lot to be desired. Holley has some good items, but their support leaves a lot to be desired.

I've found the setup can be onerous. The linkage has to be exact or you have issues. The air balance has to be done a certain way or you have issues. But once it is all tuned in, it is truly just get in and drive. No tinkering required.

The EightStack is a real eye-catcher. Much more so than four barrel(s). The drawback: $$$  they aren't cheap. I use a rule of thumb when someone asks: plan on $6,000 for the EightStack, $1000 for a fuel system (high pressure and return also), $2500 for ECU, sensors and wiring, $2000 for tuning, $500 for  gaskets, hardware, etc. Bottom line: $12,000

Probably the biggest drawback is they are unforgiving for sloppy workmanship and that doesn't bide well with some 'so-called' mechanics.

My toy:

9
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Question for Jay about the site improvements
« on: March 12, 2023, 08:28:08 PM »
Jay
Curious about what you found with the site? The improvements are REALLY noticeable.

Did you change host? if so, who is it? Any other tricks that resulted such a vast change in performance?

Did you find any issues with the forum software (SMF)?

I manage a similar site for a Cobra Replica Build group that uses SMF. Sure would like to learn your secrets

Paul

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: Coolant Leaking from Thermostat area
« on: March 11, 2023, 08:43:01 PM »
The cast flange that forms the connection between the tank and the manifold has a very narrow surface to seal with. Pitting is very common, it might be a "pinch point" in the corrosion process that goes on in the engines.

Flattening that surface to get more/better sealing is a definite step in the right direction. Gasketing and appropriate sealers are also recommended.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: Wideband A/F Tool
« on: February 20, 2023, 08:10:59 PM »
Phil
Good to hear your back playing with the Cobra.

I have and use an Innovate single-channel O2 sensor. Just move it from side to side as necessary. Worked fine when I was tuning my Weber's

The product works great. Customer support leaves a little to be desired. They used to have a forum and you could get a lot of answers there but now, you need to call in and there's only one person who is knowledgeable. Just my experiences with the item

You'll need an extension pipe on their tailpipe adapter. You want the input as far up the side pipe as you can get so you don't get reversion and a false signal. I used their adapter and then pressed a piece of copper tubing on the end so the pickup point is about 12" further into the sidepipe. There's enough pulse in the exhaust that the adapter by itself sucks outside air into the adapter and you get erroneous signals.

Paul Proefrock

12
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Handheld Oscilloscopes for my jalopies
« on: October 24, 2022, 07:48:47 PM »
I use a Picoscope, have had good luck with the one I have.  Available on Amazon, ebay, etc.

Jay, which model do you have/recommend

13
FE Technical Forum / Unusual valve stem wear - question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2022, 09:05:53 PM »
We've had an engine go bad - the valve stems wore out 'literally' This is a picture of one of the valves.


The valves are the ones that come with the Edelbrock heads. Units were put into service in 2010 and have about 30,000 miles on them. The really confusing part is the bronze guides are NOT worn. They appear to be perfect and measure little to no wear. Engine was a bored/stroked 390 to 432. Not a big power motor, mild Crane Hydraulic roller cam. Never raced, used in a cobra replica for cruising and Ice Cream fetching. Rocker arms were a set of Erson rollers, springs were stiffer than the stock Edelbrock as recommended by Crane.

I heard a comment that Chevy had an issue like this years ago with some valves. Is this a metallurgy issue? Why would a steel valve stem wear and not the bronze guide? If both were worn equally or the bronze more than the steel, I would understand it.

Any ideas

Paul

14
I've had good luck with Optic Armor

15
Those 'scoop plates' were common to the FIA cobra's that used Weber carburetors. I'm told they were used to balance the flow into the carbs since flow near the scoop opening was different than that at the rear of the engine. I can see how airflow into the horns could differ between the front and rear of the engine.

I don't doubt that Peter Klute (Legendary Motors) did his research. Maybe he can comment why the plate? The first 427 was a conglomeration of 289 parts, maybe a left-over from other vehicles?

The plates were not used on Comp or S/C cars, to my knowledge.

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