Jay
Curious about what you found with the site? The improvements are REALLY noticeable.

Did you change host? if so, who is it? Any other tricks that resulted such a vast change in performance?

Did you find any issues with the forum software (SMF)?

I manage a similar site for a Cobra Replica Build group that uses SMF. Sure would like to learn your secrets

Paul

I am a supplier to the Cobra replica/restoration market but have shied away from motor items. In the last couple months, I have been contacted repeatedly by builders/owners, looking for Chrome Pent Roof valve covers and mostly those with a hole for breathers/PCV.

I used to refer people to Tony Branda however they no longer have them and don't have a delivery date. They may be a casualty of the Pandemic/Supply chain issues.

Does anyone know of any other sources for these? Jay Brown, tried your site but I don't see any mention of valve covers

Any ideas?

Paul Proefrock
Period Correct, LLC
www.prdcrrct.com

I have a Shelby alum block w/ TrickFlow heads in a cobra replica. Valve train uses PRW Stainless Rocker system. All has been well for 650 miles till one cylinder decided not to play

This seems to be a common occurrence with the PRW system. My builder said he'd had excellent results with them so I followed his advice. He, unfortunately, passed away during the pandemic so this fix is going to be on me.

Couple questions

1) any confidence that I could just replace the broken arm and all would be well? The car is not driven that hard, the spring pressure isn't that high, nor is the lift.

2) any guys who have experienced this, did you replace or repair? Anyone have a system their not using that I could by a few rockers?

Suggestions?

Paul

I am having problems setting hydraulic roller lifters in an FE build.

In a previous FE build, I used a set of Crane hydraulic roller lifters. I don't know if they were actually built by Crane or if they were private labeled for them by someone else. When I would adjust them, I found it very difficult to determine zero lash since the plunger would very easily move up and down, as if the oil had bled away and only the spring was holding the plunger up.

I am now working on a new build that uses a set of Morel 5328 hydraulic rollers. When I go to set them, I find the plunger really doesn't want to move up and down, it is as if the lifter is full of oil and it will not push past the check valve, even after the engine has sat for over 24hrs. Putting a borescope thru the pushrod openings, I can see the plunger begin to move when being adjusted so I can tell when zero lash is obtained, but as I adjust the preload, it doesn't seem the plunger is moving but instead the valve spring is being loaded.

Is this normal? should the plungers be very stiff or should they easily move? The build is a Shelby aluminum block with TrickFlow aluminum heads. Reading the Morel data, I interpret they are suggesting 3/4-1 turn for preload, yet the system seems awfully noisy. I understand a little bit of 'sewing machine noise' as the system operates, but these seem very noisy. Is this to be expected? Do I just not have enough preload or would this change on a new engine as it begins to break in.

Any ideas or tips? I am using the EOIC adjustment method, doing one cylinder at a time in the firing order sequence.

Thanks to the brain trust. You've helped me out a lot.

Paul

I am assembling a MSD/Holley Dual Sync distributor into a Borla/Rousch EightStack manifold atop an FE. The distributor uses a tapered gasket to seal the joint between it and the manifold. I am finding it to be EXTREMELY tight, to the point you have to use a deadblow to get it to go down.  Take the gasket out and everything slips together fine. Doing some research:

1)  a number of threads on the hole being too large, nothing on it too small.

2) checking the Ford drawings, the hole is supposed to be 1.97 (don't know the tolerance range). The hole in the manifold mic's at 1.965

3) Checking gaskets (Felpro), I find two different sizes, one slightly smaller OD than the other. Even the smaller one is much tighter than you would expect.

4) looking at alignment of the shaft and the hole, it seems to be pretty well centered. Using gauge pins, it's maybe .002-.004 off center. We used the distributor to position the manifold when we torqued it down.

Anyone else run into this. I know the tighter it is, the less it will leak, but this makes it extremely difficult to adjust the timing. With everything in place, it takes two hands to rotate the distributor.

Ideas or comments? Should I try to reduce the taper on the gasket?

Paul

I am getting ready to install/assemble my individual tube slip-fit headers into a replica cobra. Any tips on the slip-joint as to sealing compounds and best way to do it without creating a f%$*#*  mess.

I've had them together before, it's a tight fit and really a task to get everything in place and lined up. I am thinking Permatex Red Hi-Temp compound inside the female tube and then slip the individual tubes in. Other ideas or suggestions

Paul

Has anyone ever found a site that gives spec's on the various PCV valves? Searching the Ford parts books and other resources, it looks as if the part number differences are based more on physical attributes (straight, elbow, size of hose connection, threaded). I don't see any reference to the port sizes or spring sizes, transition vacuum, etc.

Example, per the Ford parts book, the same PCV valve is used on a 289, 289 HiPo, 390 and 427, along with others. I'll guarantee the idle points and vacuum ranges is different on each of these engines.

The Wagner adjustable PCV is a great idea but very pricey. You can do a lot of part swapping for what they get for one, but where to start?

Paul

We have a Lakewood bellhousing that is set up to use a cable type clutch / lever arm, ball pivot on the passenger's side.  There are indications the ball stud may be too far from the centerline. I've been trying to find a location on this without much luck. Lakewood doesn't make these anymore and the tech I got to at Holley says their files don't go back that far. I can't tell if the hole was put there by Lakewood or by the original owner. Holley can't answer that question, either.

Does anyone know the dimension of the ball stud hole from the centerline hole for the transmission? It probably doesn't matter what engine as this is more a clutch/transmission relationship.

thanks in advance

Paul