I'll throw out a question to the brain-trust here.

I want to build a 347 for a replica vehicle build. Any suggestion as to a Ford block to use for the basis? I read the Boss blocks were the best choice. Is that correct? If so, is there a good second choice as rare as they are?

Paul

I have successfully run two Borla EightStack systems. I don't understand your tuner's comments about low end/street performance. That may hold true for a true Weber 48IDA setup, but not for fuel injection. I found the exact opposite. I transitioned from a Weber carb system to the first EightStack and all my driveability issues went away. That engine was a bored/stroked 390 - 432ci with a mild cam. The Borla system gave it a new life making it a very enjoyable engine in my cobra replica

I built a second car and in it put a Shelby Aluminum FE with TrickFlow heads and the Borla EightStack again. The car idles at 800-850 rpm, pulled 575 on the  dyno and last week, on a 500 mile cruise, produced 17.7mpg.  I have had my best luck using a Performance Electronics ECU. I've worked on multiple other systems and found the FAST products left a lot to be desired. Holley has some good items, but their support leaves a lot to be desired.

I've found the setup can be onerous. The linkage has to be exact or you have issues. The air balance has to be done a certain way or you have issues. But once it is all tuned in, it is truly just get in and drive. No tinkering required.

The EightStack is a real eye-catcher. Much more so than four barrel(s). The drawback: $$$  they aren't cheap. I use a rule of thumb when someone asks: plan on $6,000 for the EightStack, $1000 for a fuel system (high pressure and return also), $2500 for ECU, sensors and wiring, $2000 for tuning, $500 for  gaskets, hardware, etc. Bottom line: $12,000

Probably the biggest drawback is they are unforgiving for sloppy workmanship and that doesn't bide well with some 'so-called' mechanics.

My toy:

The cast flange that forms the connection between the tank and the manifold has a very narrow surface to seal with. Pitting is very common, it might be a "pinch point" in the corrosion process that goes on in the engines.

Flattening that surface to get more/better sealing is a definite step in the right direction. Gasketing and appropriate sealers are also recommended.

I use a Picoscope, have had good luck with the one I have.  Available on Amazon, ebay, etc.

Jay, which model do you have/recommend

I've had good luck with Optic Armor

I am a supplier to the Cobra replica/restoration market but have shied away from motor items. In the last couple months, I have been contacted repeatedly by builders/owners, looking for Chrome Pent Roof valve covers and mostly those with a hole for breathers/PCV.

I used to refer people to Tony Branda however they no longer have them and don't have a delivery date. They may be a casualty of the Pandemic/Supply chain issues.

Does anyone know of any other sources for these? Jay Brown, tried your site but I don't see any mention of valve covers

Any ideas?

Paul Proefrock
Period Correct, LLC
www.prdcrrct.com

As expected, PRW is blaming the builder - not their fault. How come I knew this was coming. Saying the pushrod was too long and hit the rocker and the spring pressure is probably too high.

• no witness marks on the pushrod or cup
• no witness marks on the body of the lifters
• spring pressure at full open is 365lbs, there spec says 375+ is OK

Can anyone comment on the travel path on the end of the valve stems. The rocker failed on the intake side (left in the picture).  In my mind, the travel path/geometry looks pretty close but I defer to the experts.

Thanks

Paul

Thanks for the support, guys, I really appreciate it.

Can anyone tell me more about re-using my existing hardware with new "other brand" rockers? Any experience with re-using the shaft? Harland Sharp vs T&D vs Precision Oil Pumps - is one preferred over the others? Does only one work with existing PRW stands?

Hoping to learn from everyone's experience