I recently obtained new adjusters for my OEM adjustable rocker assemblies (with hydraulic flat tappet cam).

I removed both assemblies, cleaned and checked everything out to make certain all was good, and then replaced all the interference fit adjusters with new adjusters purchased from DSC. My problem is, how do I begin setting the lash when I have no point of reference (other than TDC as a starting point). I guess I should have considered this more carefully before removing it all, but here I am, wondering how to best proceed.

Thanks in advance....

   With great reluctance, I am posting my 1966 Galaxie 500 390 4-speed for sale. I have owned this car since 2014 and have transformed it somewhat since then.
 
   The previous owner sold me the car due to not being able to figure out why the engine was smoking. I purchased the car and soon became a member on FEPower.net, and began researching FE issues with oil burning. I discovered the intake manifold gasket required replacement, removed the valley pan as a precaution, and installed Comp Cams positive stop valve stem seals, which solved the problem. The engine runs strong, with a mild cam and pump gas compression approximately 9.75-10.00:1.

   The previous owner completed extensive work on the car, engine was rebuilt, the suspension was gone through (mostly front), fuel tank replaced, headliner replaced, and appears to have completed an amateur paint job; the paint has orange peel with various paint defects and chips found all over the car. It looks good from 10-20ft away. Some body filler is apparent in the rear quarters. PO also powder coated the front bumper and the LTD style grille shells. The grille shells were replaced with chrome pieces (pitted) back in 2020 (still have powder coated ones). Rear bumper was painted to look similar to front.

   The car began with a bench seat and a column shifted C-6 automatic. It also had a 3.25 open differential.

   My modifications began by sourcing parts from two separate 7-Litre cars, the first one supplied the interior seating and an AT floor shifter & console. The torque converter let go around 2020, whereupon I located another 7-Litre car (convertible 4 speed car), and sourced the entire 4 speed setup, including console and steering column. I rebuilt the toploader in summer of 2021 (replacing the 2nd gear as well). It has a MacLeod clutch. A NOS Hurst shifter was finally located to replace the OEM shifter (still have it). The close ratio toploader required replacing the rear gear, so a new Traction-lock center section was purchased from Jegs with a 3.89 gear. Rear axle bearings were replaced, coil springs, as well as driveshaft balanced.

   Front drum brakes were converted to disc with a Scarebird style kit along with a dual reservoir master cylinder and a truck sourced proportioning valve.

   Carburetor rebuilt 2024. Much more done over the years, have a folder full of receipts (including from the previous owner). The car is originally from Kentucky. The seats are the original 7-Litre pieces, except for driver’s seat base, which was recovered. I have some spare pieces that will go with the car, spare console/OEM manual shifter and linkage, column shift steering column, instrument cluster with AM radio, etc..

   The car is far from perfect, but it is a nice reliable, strong running, and attractive car.

   Asking $16,500

Hello all,

I'm trying to locate one of the hash marks that go on the roof sail panels. I had one go missing during a venture out last week. I have attached a photo procured from the web as an example.

Thanks in advance.

Since you say you are parts savvy, then it seems that your local NAPA has some software quirks (not unheard of). Regardless of such a situation, you still walk into a parts store "unarmed"?
 
Apologies... not to imply anything, or to seem "pushy", but do you leave "things" in the hands of others? I'm a parts guy, so I never rely on others--been burned too many times. It is always best to do your own leg work. Never assume the other person knows what they are doing (Like everyone else, I too am fallible--I make mistakes as well--this includes the computer cataloging). Doing your own research is always the best policy.

Again, with respect--I don't wish to come off in a bad light: I just want to communicate my experiences and be helpful.

There are so many variables here, so many possibilities. It is so difficult to diagnose things this way (I've recently been on this site looking for ideas myself), moreso with a lack of detail.

What engine?
What type of valvetrain? Adjustable or non-adjustable? OEM or aftermarket?
If adjustable, have you checked valve adjustment?
If non-adjustable, are the pushrods correct length?

It could be so many things, this is just what popped into mind.

I finally have it running again. While I was swapping my carb out the other day, with what ultimately was a worn out carb, I noticed my Holley leaked fuel in an odd manner, and noticed the base gasket on the manifold wet on the side. I decided to disassemble, clean, and re-assemble the carb tonight. After getting it back together, it wanted to run, but I needed to adjust the timing a bit. After a couple distributor adjustments, I was up and running. I put the timing light on it and got it back to the 16 degrees I've been running.

At present, it seems it may have been a gasket issue between the main body and the base plate of the carb. This was replaced during my rebuild about a month-month and a half ago. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary with the gasket, but swapped it out for the old one I removed. I suspect this may have been the culprit, but I've not had it up and running long enough to be entirely confident in this diagnosis. The gear on the distributor still sticks in my mind, though I've not been able to get it to move outside it's normal function.

Certainly, if the carb was sucking air it could have caused all of the issues--loss of power and overheating caused by a lean mixture--still, it's sudden onset has me wondering, though. I suppose everything has a tipping point, yet I'd have thought a little more subtle indication of an issue would've shown itself prior to it's sudden and rather dramatic failure. Admittedly, the plugs showed it running a little leaner than it was prior to the carb rebuild--but it wasn't much. I chalked it up to fresh rebuild. I even bumped the jets a bit while I was in it again, just to be safe.

Well, it will have some driveway idle and close by running for a while--before I'm comfortable with a road trip again, once I re-seal these damn Cobra Le Mans valve covers--they sure are pretty, but the gaskets like to walk/deform.

I do appreciate all the thoughts and suggestions everyone offered. This website has been a great source of knowledge for the last 10 years I've had the Galaxie--with my first FE.

I wasn't sure how many times I needed to crank on the test, so I saw 140-150 after a few cranks and stopped. According to an article I read, "A 9:1 compression ratio cylinder is compressing the air and fuel mixture to about 132 psi at sea level". My engine is just short of 10:1, but I've seen some different info as wll. When performed, the engine was cold of course. The cylinders were all similar. Perhaps I need to re-test.