They have worked out well. I've not had to mess with valve adjustments since getting it sorted.

I too have been ordering from Rock Auto for years, and I've never had a problem, but then I've never needed to return anything.

I don't know how many people know this, but as I understand, Rock Auto has no warehouses; all of the parts on the website are sold by participating auto parts stores and warehouses across the country, which is why it is often necessary to juggle parts orders in order to get everything from the same shipper. It's interesting how it's done, I just wished I knew who/where the sellers are located. I've discovered a couple NW and Central Ohio parts wholesalers near me that are Rock Auto participants, but the info came quite by accident. It would be nice to know who/where they are all located.

O/P--Good luck solving your problem. Your issue definitely makes me take pause before ordering.

Just in case anyone was wondering it is still available.

I stopped going when the "tapatalk" nonsense began.

Not sure what web browser you use, but I use Mozilla Firefox, which has some nice add-ons available. I use a script blocker add-on called NoScript, which allows me to block ads (and trackers, google's bs, etc.). It can be tricky figuring out what must be allowed to run in order for the website to work properly, but once you figure it out it is a great tool. I NEVER see ads or pop-ups unless they are attached to something I allowed in order for a website to work.

If you're not familiar with script blockers and why they are useful, you should see the number of different websites that have "something" running on a single webpage. Some news sites or E-commerce sites have 20-30 or more different sites/scripts/programs running on one webpage. Everything from annoying pop-ups and ads to trackers and data miners that have no business running on your system (can slow things way down as well).

I'm guessing a script blocker may solve the problems you're having with that website.

I've yet to purchase anything from this company, but a person I work with uses them regularly and recomemnded them to me some time ago. They are geared towards audio equipment, but they appear to stretch beyond.

Based in Springboro, Ohio

https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts

I'll do the axial method on this, readjusting them all. From everything stated here, I have probably over-tightened some of them. Thanks for all the feedback.

As the subject states, what is the impact of increased and decreased lash on idle quality? Specifically, carb adjustment was never touched, the car runs great, but it idles at a somewhat lower RPM than before, using the same 1/2 turn past zero lash. I realize zero lash using the "twist the push rod until you feel resistance" is a rather imprecise manner for determining zero lash, so I expect some variation, yet it is the same proceedure I've used in the past.

The sound out the pipes is also "different", so it seems I may need some further adjustment. I replaced the adjusters on the factory rockers (from DSC), as some of the OEM adjusters were worn and not staying tight.

Again, the car runs very well, but seems slightly off given the past 11 years of experience with this engine (bored 390, hydraulic Bullet Cam).
 

I recently obtained new adjusters for my OEM adjustable rocker assemblies (with hydraulic flat tappet cam).

I removed both assemblies, cleaned and checked everything out to make certain all was good, and then replaced all the interference fit adjusters with new adjusters purchased from DSC. My problem is, how do I begin setting the lash when I have no point of reference (other than TDC as a starting point). I guess I should have considered this more carefully before removing it all, but here I am, wondering how to best proceed.

Thanks in advance....