I'll do the axial method on this, readjusting them all. From everything stated here, I have probably over-tightened some of them. Thanks for all the feedback.

As the subject states, what is the impact of increased and decreased lash on idle quality? Specifically, carb adjustment was never touched, the car runs great, but it idles at a somewhat lower RPM than before, using the same 1/2 turn past zero lash. I realize zero lash using the "twist the push rod until you feel resistance" is a rather imprecise manner for determining zero lash, so I expect some variation, yet it is the same proceedure I've used in the past.

The sound out the pipes is also "different", so it seems I may need some further adjustment. I replaced the adjusters on the factory rockers (from DSC), as some of the OEM adjusters were worn and not staying tight.

Again, the car runs very well, but seems slightly off given the past 11 years of experience with this engine (bored 390, hydraulic Bullet Cam).
 

I recently obtained new adjusters for my OEM adjustable rocker assemblies (with hydraulic flat tappet cam).

I removed both assemblies, cleaned and checked everything out to make certain all was good, and then replaced all the interference fit adjusters with new adjusters purchased from DSC. My problem is, how do I begin setting the lash when I have no point of reference (other than TDC as a starting point). I guess I should have considered this more carefully before removing it all, but here I am, wondering how to best proceed.

Thanks in advance....

   With great reluctance, I am posting my 1966 Galaxie 500 390 4-speed for sale. I have owned this car since 2014 and have transformed it somewhat since then.
 
   The previous owner sold me the car due to not being able to figure out why the engine was smoking. I purchased the car and soon became a member on FEPower.net, and began researching FE issues with oil burning. I discovered the intake manifold gasket required replacement, removed the valley pan as a precaution, and installed Comp Cams positive stop valve stem seals, which solved the problem. The engine runs strong, with a mild cam and pump gas compression approximately 9.75-10.00:1.

   The previous owner completed extensive work on the car, engine was rebuilt, the suspension was gone through (mostly front), fuel tank replaced, headliner replaced, and appears to have completed an amateur paint job; the paint has orange peel with various paint defects and chips found all over the car. It looks good from 10-20ft away. Some body filler is apparent in the rear quarters. PO also powder coated the front bumper and the LTD style grille shells. The grille shells were replaced with chrome pieces (pitted) back in 2020 (still have powder coated ones). Rear bumper was painted to look similar to front.

   The car began with a bench seat and a column shifted C-6 automatic. It also had a 3.25 open differential.

   My modifications began by sourcing parts from two separate 7-Litre cars, the first one supplied the interior seating and an AT floor shifter & console. The torque converter let go around 2020, whereupon I located another 7-Litre car (convertible 4 speed car), and sourced the entire 4 speed setup, including console and steering column. I rebuilt the toploader in summer of 2021 (replacing the 2nd gear as well). It has a MacLeod clutch. A NOS Hurst shifter was finally located to replace the OEM shifter (still have it). The close ratio toploader required replacing the rear gear, so a new Traction-lock center section was purchased from Jegs with a 3.89 gear. Rear axle bearings were replaced, coil springs, as well as driveshaft balanced.

   Front drum brakes were converted to disc with a Scarebird style kit along with a dual reservoir master cylinder and a truck sourced proportioning valve.

   Carburetor rebuilt 2024. Much more done over the years, have a folder full of receipts (including from the previous owner). The car is originally from Kentucky. The seats are the original 7-Litre pieces, except for driver’s seat base, which was recovered. I have some spare pieces that will go with the car, spare console/OEM manual shifter and linkage, column shift steering column, instrument cluster with AM radio, etc..

   The car is far from perfect, but it is a nice reliable, strong running, and attractive car.

   Asking $16,500

Hello all,

I'm trying to locate one of the hash marks that go on the roof sail panels. I had one go missing during a venture out last week. I have attached a photo procured from the web as an example.

Thanks in advance.

Since you say you are parts savvy, then it seems that your local NAPA has some software quirks (not unheard of). Regardless of such a situation, you still walk into a parts store "unarmed"?
 
Apologies... not to imply anything, or to seem "pushy", but do you leave "things" in the hands of others? I'm a parts guy, so I never rely on others--been burned too many times. It is always best to do your own leg work. Never assume the other person knows what they are doing (Like everyone else, I too am fallible--I make mistakes as well--this includes the computer cataloging). Doing your own research is always the best policy.

Again, with respect--I don't wish to come off in a bad light: I just want to communicate my experiences and be helpful.

There are so many variables here, so many possibilities. It is so difficult to diagnose things this way (I've recently been on this site looking for ideas myself), moreso with a lack of detail.

What engine?
What type of valvetrain? Adjustable or non-adjustable? OEM or aftermarket?
If adjustable, have you checked valve adjustment?
If non-adjustable, are the pushrods correct length?

It could be so many things, this is just what popped into mind.