Dan, it there any reason not to go with sidepipes and eliminate the under-chassis exhaust altogether?

Doug, I'm fixing to bring the Hemi Coupe again. Hoping to have it in the 9's.

Alan, I understand some people are very concerned about privacy. But I sent them a picture of my driver's license and I have zero concern about anything bad coming of it. I'm more concerned that they still haven't refunded me for my 2020 registration fee and I had to pay again to register for 2021. My emails asking for the refund have gone unanswered.

that is something to consider. Here's the thing about this Flathead block: all of the many hours of port work are going to be done on the block not the heads, as well as the five main conversion. so I'll have a lot tied up in the block. Making it last is a priority. it's different than with an overhead valve or if you are at the block you still have your good heads.

I'm trying to figure out if it's better to have small bore, thicker walls, longer stroke or bigger bore, thinner walls, shorter stroke. If I bore it a minimal amount, I'm going to have to go up to a 4-5/8 stroke.

Final value fees are now up to 10% on car parts, and you are charged on the shipping and handling too. And now in our state, the buyer has to fork over another 8% for sales tax that ebay automatically adds to the invoice. Legally, you do not owe sales tax on an occasional sale of a used item, but Ebay does not discern that for you. So you get stuck with it anyway.

The stock bore and stroke is 3.5 x 4.375. The class allows 375 cubic inches. I'd like to get close to that on the cubic inches. So I'm trying to figure out if I can overbore .100 or .125.  Or am I better off pushing the stroke out to 4.625 and keeping the bore at 3.560 to maximize cylinder wall stability.

On a cast iron block, half filled, at 22 lbs boost +/- what would be the minimum safe wall thickness? THis is an O/T engine, a Lincoln 337 flathead.