Not saying that your engine can’t take it but highway cruising I like to be at 2800 rpm 3000 max. Driving at 3600 for 30 plus minutes is screaming to me. Maybe I’m being to cautious when I’m on the parkway. A drive like that could really get those ztemps up.

I agree Stangman it 100% is not good I would call it thrashing not to the extreme but I am sure it was harder then all the rips to 6500 combined Just like you said 2800 3000 is good. But it was interesting to see how everything responded when abused and I don't have any plans to repeat it. Over all I think it did pretty well oil got up in temp but it was stable.

I got in contact with the morel dealer here in Australia today so I will find out soon what it is worth and how long to rebuild a set of lifters.

Quote from: cleandan on May 08, 2024, 09:46:34 AM

200*F for oil, or water, temps is just fine...no worries.
220*F for oil, or water temps is just fine....but getting up there.
Many choose temps in the 160-180 range and that is not ideal for many reasons...too cool.
But even 235*F is okay for one of these engines.

Not to hijack the thread, but I have read many conflicting opinions on the 160-180 topic.  Lots of people say this is too cool, many others say it's fine and that they've never had an engine wear out prematurely for running temp in that range.  My engine was running in the 210-215 range with a 180 stat in the first 100 miles (90-100f southern summer days), but I altered the grill for better airflow and now it sits happy in 178-182.  When I was in the 215 range, it dieseled badly on shutdown. 

Just curious what your thoughts are on the 160-180 being too cool.

I run a 160 thermostat and I set my fan to come on and off at around 170 for my set up that seems to work the best normal running temp is 180 no matter the weather for me if my car goes much over 200 even under the hottest days 35C to 40deg C then I know there is a problem with fans or water pump belt and It only gets to 200 on highway drives and I think that is because of my fan shroud set up is restricting airflow at speed but is amazing in traffic just goes up to 180 fans kick on and pull it back down to 165 170 and turn off or it will just hold it at 180 on a hot day.
I really need to try a no shroud set up I bet that would fix highway heat but it will make it worse in traffic.

As for Run On mine did that when it was fresh and tight too I though it was too much timing but it was not and went away as it loosened up. I broke my engine in driving up a mountain.

I think people confuse 160 thermostat with that is where my temp will run but that is not the case all it will do is allow the water to flow @160 your fans and rad still need to be able to control the heat. If your cooling set up can maintain 160deg f that is a super cooling set up. It is hot here all year round I would be lucky to see a few weeks a year of sub 10deg C mornings and average of 20deg c days other 49 weeks of the year is 30deg c to 40deg c day or night .

If I was in a cooler climate I would run a 180 thermostat. I think running at 200 210 is fine too but you have very little margin for error if anything happens you will be pushing water out before you can find a good place to park and let it cool down. Just got to find what works for your car and climate.

Bit more info on the engine 482ci Scat steel crank 4.25" callies ultra rods 6.7" diamond flat top pistons cnc bbm heads t&d race rockers 260psi seat 630psi @.700 lift morel lifters camshaft is 258 264 @50 695 695 110lsa 11.3 to 1 cr bbm tunnel wedge 2x 735 cfm carbs moroso t pan pop hv oil pump bbm block 4.250 car is 3800 pounds

My engine has be in my car now for just over 2 years now and has well over 5000miles but less then 7k on it engine is a solid roller bbm block and heads and intake and it has been flawless. I was thinking of pulling the engine soon and doing a check of lifters and pull a few main and rod caps just to see how everything looks. Am I crazy for thinking about it? when would be a good time to think about it?.

It has had a pretty easy life so far no strip runs just street driving and a skid once and a wile and lots of highway miles

Second half of this post has to do with oil temps and highway driving I have always had a concern about my oil temp when highway driving not really a problem @65mph @3000rpm sits at about 200 might get to 220 on a hot day and 70mph for 30min to an hour. Last weekend I gave the car a bit of a hard run on the way to a local car show ran at 75/80mph for around 30min at 3500 3600rpms engine oil temp hit 230@60/65psi. Oil temp is stable and it came right back down 190 200 as soon as I had to slow down for built up area's 40/50mph speed zones. I do run an oil cooler I am not sure if I should change oil type at the moment I am running Penrite HPR 30 20w/60 https://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-30-20w-60-mineral Every oil change has looked great nothing abnormal in the oil filter. Would the BBM block being cast solid below the water plugs be why? everything else is great water temp will only get to 200 on the hottest of days the day before I went to another local event and sat in bumper to bumper traffic for 2 hours to do a 2 lap cruise of the main streets of the town near me with about 1000+ other cars water temp sat at 165 to 180 engine oil sat at 180/190@40/45psi at idle trans temp sat at 180/190 the entire time it was a cooler night 26 deg C. Any thoughts on oils I can't get some of the oils you can get in the USA here in Australia but I thinking of switching to a synthetic oil.

Thoughts? Cheers JB.

The TCI pan is an extra 2 quarts and the pan comes as a kit (pan, pan gasket, filter extension, filter) I am pretty sure I just need a filter and i am pretty sure you get just a generic steel screen filter.
I didn't really want to pull the pan and then have to wait and order a what I needed but I may have to

I am about to do an oil change on my C6 trans I am running a TCI deep oil pan and I am trying to find the correct filter I can get a TCI one in Australia Part I came up with was TCI Part # 428501.
Is this what I should get or What do people use for built deep pan C6's?

Quote from: Jb427 on April 16, 2024, 09:45:54 AM

Quote from: CV355 on April 16, 2024, 08:12:42 AM

If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

Buy the same brand line/hose and fitting

ptfe fittings do not need a crimp connection you can get crimp fittings but most use a collar that goes over the inner liner under the braid.

Also added bonus to ptfe hose is it is much smaller OD then rubber. The -6 line I use for my power steering has an OD of only 0.429" it may look odd if you only do the one line

Good point!  Each manufacturer runs to different tolerances, so for "max material conditions" the ferrule may not actually fit over the teflon liner.  Incredibly frustrating when that happens.  I had 30' of 8AN PTFE and none of the ferrules fit, and it was the same brand.

Yes CV355 lucky I didn't have any problems with any of mine. Did you find out what the problem was?.

If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

Buy the same brand line/hose and fitting

ptfe fittings do not need a crimp connection you can get crimp fittings but most use a collar that goes over the inner liner under the braid.

Also added bonus to ptfe hose is it is much smaller OD then rubber. The -6 line I use for my power steering has an OD of only 0.429" it may look odd if you only do the one line