Quote from: Jb427 on April 16, 2024, 09:45:54 AM

Quote from: CV355 on April 16, 2024, 08:12:42 AM

If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

Buy the same brand line/hose and fitting

ptfe fittings do not need a crimp connection you can get crimp fittings but most use a collar that goes over the inner liner under the braid.

Also added bonus to ptfe hose is it is much smaller OD then rubber. The -6 line I use for my power steering has an OD of only 0.429" it may look odd if you only do the one line

Good point!  Each manufacturer runs to different tolerances, so for "max material conditions" the ferrule may not actually fit over the teflon liner.  Incredibly frustrating when that happens.  I had 30' of 8AN PTFE and none of the ferrules fit, and it was the same brand.

Yes CV355 lucky I didn't have any problems with any of mine. Did you find out what the problem was?.

If you're buying PTFE braided hose and fittings, make sure to get fittings rated for hydraulic pressure and have a reputable shop crimp/swage them on properly.  You would be surprised how many fittings are sold without the pressure rating specs being advertised or considered.  Always assume it is low pressure class unless otherwise specified. 

Buy the same brand line/hose and fitting

ptfe fittings do not need a crimp connection you can get crimp fittings but most use a collar that goes over the inner liner under the braid.

Also added bonus to ptfe hose is it is much smaller OD then rubber. The -6 line I use for my power steering has an OD of only 0.429" it may look odd if you only do the one line

Just my opinion but I don't think a header leak is your problem a header leak sounds more like a tick
the ring problem could be from your headers i could see that if they are made out of really thin or even stainless can can make it sound tinny.

I would delete the cut-outs first or make them removeable every one I have ever know who has used them has never had good luck and have problems with them not sealing and leaking over time
after they have been deleted test and if it changes anything it may fix sound and smell problem it one hit they are the biggest potential leak area.

Just my opinion but that is what I would try first I hope you get it sorted.   

Can you post some photo's of your exhaust system CV355?

I agree with CJ I think something else is going on as far as the fumes go.

As for the sound that tricky to say how to make it better.

I think what Urgefor means is you could tig a bead of weld around inside the collector or outside of the primary tubes so you get a tighter fit once the collector is fitted up tight.

If it is that bad that you smell like exhaust after driving your car sounds like the leak is pretty bad and it is getting inside the car. I would find out how those fumes are getting inside the car first that should not be happening could be firewall floor or trunk and i would think trunk or the rear of the car some place.

you could start the car on a car hoist and see if you can spot other leaks.
 

I run FPA headers x-pipe with flowmaster not sure what flowmasters they are it is not quiet but it dose not make your head ring sounds louder in the shed idling 800rpm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNs5J-tukZk

Invest in the best 1350 joints and billet caps that you can get. With a spool, especially on the street, the stresses placed on those pieces, as well as axles and wheel studs, cannot be overstated.

Take CJ's and hbstangs advice you can really brake stuff with a spool on the street. Braking an axle in a 66/67 fairlane would not be good I run a true trac gives great driving and they are silent no banging when turning tight like a detroit lockers do. Just don't buy a cheap ebay copy spend the money and get a real eaton true track.