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FE Technical Forum / Re: Spark plugs for BBM heads
« on: March 14, 2024, 04:35:02 AM »
I run the NGK BKR6E seems to work well for me with 11.3/1 CR
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Invest in the best 1350 joints and billet caps that you can get. With a spool, especially on the street, the stresses placed on those pieces, as well as axles and wheel studs, cannot be overstated.
I will say those old MT covers are made out of junk metal I had to weld a small crack inside of mine and it was not fun.
The ones that came black crinkle are made with pot metal and the polished ones were pure aluminum and weldable.
I ruined a few cut up ones making mine before I realized that.
Yes
A 200 amp fuse in the cable to your starter solenoid is plenty.
My Comet is wired like your Mustang. 1/0 cable from the front to back with a 200 amp Mega fuse next to the battery.
Of equal concern is the grounding especially if you've got electric fans, hi amp ignition box, high amp draw starter, or other heavy draws. In the old days we all just welded a nut to the subframe inside the trunk and made a short cable, same size as the cable to the solenoid, and screwed it down.
More modern thinking, especially if an electronic fuel injection system might be in the future, is to run the ground cable, same size as the cable to the solenoid, to the engine block and then to the chassis at the front. Yes, it's cumbersome and heavy to run 2 cables from the front to back of the car. It is amazing to note how poor steel is a conductor of electricity compared to copper or aluminum.
Could help avoid electrical "gremlins" in the future.
Grounds,Grounds,Grounds!
428Marauder Not sure how handy you are but it is not really a small job to fit the blockplate gearbox converter and flexplate need to come off. Some one here should be able to give you some starter measurement's to check and make sure there is nothing else going on. Best to check all that when you have it apart and you can check as you put it back together. Or ask you mechanic to check for you.I wonder, if you cut the center out so it would slip by the crank, you might be able to move the trans back past the dowel pins and slide it in there.....