390 Top End Build

[67Flane]

History as far as i know it.  390 FE supposedly rebuilt "at a tech school" had 5000 miles on it when i bought my 67 and the engine came with it.  i was not told it was modified in any way so I'm figuring stock or possibly bored with stock cam.


Ive got my full top end aluminum replacements heads/intake  Both Edelbrocks.  what i don't know is what cam i should shoot for "has to be Hydraulic as i after heads/intake no room in budget for roller. 

So I'm gona try and give you guys an idea of what I'm looking for....and you be the great gents you are and send me on the right path of which cam to go for.

Summer Street Queen no plans for dragstrip unless just a fun run to see what it does.


67 Fairlane 2DR Post, 390 FE Aluminum Edel top end,  C6 currently stock stall, 8" rearend i believe.  "whatever a 67 2DR Post in-line 6 3 on the tree no ac/radio would have had.  has hooker super comp headers.  true dual 2 1/4 all the way out the rear. edelbrock 750 performer carb, aluminum radiator with electric fans.

Car is a Non-Power Brakes, Non-Powersteering from factory,  so requires a nice heavy foot to stop and decent upperbody strength to turn since it was originally a 6cyl car.


I don't like a smooth exhaust http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHot_zitu6c i enjoy this type of engine idle
Car will mainly just cruise no racing just some horsing around.


any other info you need just ask.  ill try and get some pictures of her up soon.

Thanks in advance.   Joe W.


Oh and by the way if anyone has a Dash pad for a 66 or 67 Fairlane or another model that will go onto my dash im in desperate need my car did not come with one so i have nothing there but metal.  dont care if it has to be recovered just need something other then the ugly metal it hides.

[ScotiaFE]

I would make sure on the bottom end before I put the aluminum on the top.
Pull a main cap or two.
What pistons? Compression can vary widely in FE's.
Is it even a 390? Just cause someone said it is does not mean it is.
The stock six brakes are not up to the task of hauling down a healthy 390.
Nothing wrong with manual brakes and steering, I've run that for years on my XL, just need the bigger stuff.
The truck in the vid, the guy says comp 268. A smallish cam for a tad better than stock.
Good cam for a mild 390.

[67Flane]

The engine currently runs great has plenty of go its definately not worn out.  it just sat long enough the valve stem seals hardened and no longer do their job  causing a nice smoking issue.   stud snapped on the head for the headers so theres an exhaust leak... seals i can fix in car but the stud broke by the shock tower hence forth to fix the engine has to be removed as theres barely even finger room between heads and shocktowers.

Idle Oil PSI 15-20  2000ish-2500ish RPM is 30-40,  foot to floor 50-60PSI,   pops off first starter revolution as long as it hasnt sat for long time. 

so i figured if im pulling the engine i had the resources to do Cam/Heads/Intake while its out and get more out of my lil lady  as for being 390 or not...im pretty sure when i got it that i checked the casting code on block..but now your have me second guessing myself..

[jayb]

As long as you're going to pull the engine, as Howie says it would be a good idea to check the bottom end.  But it doesn't sound like you would find any problems.  On the cam, I think I'd be looking at a Crane 343941.  This is a dual pattern cam.  Advertised duration is 272/284, duration at .050" is 216/228, and lift is .533/.563.  My brother has one of those in his 428, which is a stockish engine, and it idled really well with lots of vacuum, but still made good power (385 HP with the Streetmaster intake). 

[machoneman]

I'd still do a leak-down test before pulling the engine. A smoky exhaust could also be caused by stuck oil rings/expanders especially in an old engine. A new timing chain/gears and oil pump are also a great ideas. 

[amdscooter]

I did a similar "refresh" just a few months ago. Thread here: http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=735.15. After pulling the heads on what I though was an untouched 390FE to get a broken exhaust stud removed for incoming headers, I found the piston tops all stamped .030. While you are in there check the rod and main bearings as others have recommended. If they look good the cost to you is no more than a few drops of assembly oil and a few clicks of a torque wrench. Cost if there is something starting to go bad and you skip the check.. a darn sight more usually. Mine had some normal wear showing but nothing that merited a teardown for a weekend driver. What I replaced on the short block:

Cam (Comp 268H). 
Timing gear set (Ford racing double roller).
Oil pump (Melling high volume).
Oil pump drive shaft with a chrome-molly.
Oil scupper.
Rear main.
Front main.
Freeze plugs.
Pan gasket.
Oil filter adapter to the "updated" CJ style with better flow.

I also did a few of the oil mods to improve flow. I can dig up some links if you are interested. Your situation which is extremely similar to what I was doing except I ended up having the original GT heads rebuilt. Hardened seats, Viton seals, etc. Nothing fancy but a nice solid top end build for the mild cam I installed.  Were I you, I would at the very least recommend replacing the oil pump, freeze plugs, rear main seal and pan gasket. The cost is minimal and you are already there, none of those items is very fun from under the car.

Here is a utoobe video of what the end result of my 'refresh" sounds like:

http://youtu.be/zehIx_27R4I

Exhaust is 2.5" to the Magnaflows and 2.25" to the bumper. Pretty similar to that truck in the video you posted.

I'm still working on getting it dialed in. But watch out for detonation if you are using the stock dizzy. My total advance with the stock dizzy was headed to the moon. But that's a long story in another thread.. 

Good Luck!

**edit**

Almost forgot.. make sure it's a 390. Casting numbers are a good indication. But actual bore + stroke is your best friend.  And I botched the exhaust numbers.. fixed. Need more coffee.