428 in a Highboy

[jwrmach1]

I've got a 72 Highboy with a 360 that I want to change to a 66 Tbird 428.  The end goal is more power but still look like a 360 under the hood.  The only concession on stock looks under the hood would be headers instead of the log manifolds.  I want to use iron heads.  This will do some trailer towing duties so top end power is not high on the list, but low and mid range torque is.    The question is which heads have exhaust ports that match up with the available highboy headers?  I would love to use 428CJ heads, but will there be a mismatch on exhaust ports?  I have a set of C7JE industrial heads or would the C6AE-R heads be a better choice with CJ valves?  Maybe the original D2's with CJ valves and port cleanup?   What would be a good cam recommendation for this type of application?
Thanks in advance,
JWR

[BigBlueIron]

D2's

Custom cam, several on here that can make a great recommendation.

[cjshaker]

I used C4 heads on the 390 in my old '68 Highboy. There was only one header available for those years, and that was Hedman's Headers. They matched just fine and I never had issues with them due to sealing. In over 23 years of use (never had the headers unbolted from the head in all that time), I never had a leak at the head. I also have C4 heads on the 390 in my '70 F350 dually. Same story....Hedman Headers with no issues on match-up or leaking.

[475fetoploader]

Stan’s headers in Auburn wa, which is local to me, builds some tri-y headers, that fit well, and are of quality. I have a set for my 75 hi-boy.  I will be starting to assemble my 428 any day now.  I would be happy to get some photos for you, I’m running Edelbrock heads, I have plenty of iron heads here to take photos of fitment .

[427John]

Take a good look at the C7JE heads if you already have them,for some reason I want to think those are tall port heads,if so they might be the functional equivalent of C6AE-R,C4AE-G's would be a good choice too,since these are going to be in a truck the extra bosses for the horizontal exhaust pattern aren't necessary.Any of the tall port heads  can be made to perform close to the level of the stock CJ's by installing the bigger valves and a little port work and you should be able to buy the cores for a tenth of the price of a set of CJ cores.

[hvywrench]

Just to pass on some info on my install.
I put FPA headers on my '73 highboy chassis, 428, C8AE-H heads.
At the time I ordered them there were two options; 'short drop' and 'long drop'.
I ordered the short drop, I was overseas at the time and wasn't able to look at the chassis.
The short drop headers pointed/ended directly at the crossmember that is under the bellhousing.
I was able to scallop out the crossmember and do some metal work to where it looks good and didn't lose 'much' strength, but it took some time.
I looked at the FPA site but it seems that there is less info posted, probably need to contact them if you are thinking FPA.
The headers themselves have held up great, but the right side header needs to be removed (bit of a project) to change the stock starter.
I have pics somewhere but don't have an account on any picture hosting site to post them here.
Bill

[My427stang]

I haven't used them on an F250, but I have been very happy with Hedmans on my F100.  Like Bill and the FPA, you have to remove it to change a stock starter, but they fit nice, work well on my ported D2s.  I have not tried them on a CJ/early/Edelbrock head

[KMcCullah]

I've got a 72 Highboy with a 360 that I want to change to a 66 Tbird 428.  The end goal is more power but still look like a 360 under the hood.  The only concession on stock looks under the hood would be headers instead of the log manifolds.  I want to use iron heads.  This will do some trailer towing duties so top end power is not high on the list, but low and mid range torque is.    The question is which heads have exhaust ports that match up with the available highboy headers?  I would love to use 428CJ heads, but will there be a mismatch on exhaust ports?  I have a set of C7JE industrial heads or would the C6AE-R heads be a better choice with CJ valves?  Maybe the original D2's with CJ valves and port cleanup?   What would be a good cam recommendation for this type of application?
Thanks in advance,
JWR

I think for what your going to use the truck for, the D2's with CJ valves sounds good. Make sure the exhaust seats are still kinda hard or add the cost of hardened seats to your machining bill. Heck I think I'd pop for Stan's Tri-Y's too. The flanges look to have plenty of meat to seal up good. Probably good for low end torque too.

D2's with Blair's CNC EMC ports would be like the ultimate sleeper iron head for a Highboy I think.  I know the casting wouldn't yield the same flows as the C4-G. Just a reduced cross section version. I bet they would work good on a 410-428. 10.5:1. Hydraulic roller. Iron CJ intake. PBF valve covers.

[RustyCrankshaft]

I don't remember the part number, but I bought a set of Hooker Headers off Barry's last EMC engine and they fit the "passenger car" port fine on a set of C1AE's.

The Stans/FPA's are very nice and with a price tag to go with it. The Hooker's were a good compromise and have decent flanges.

[475fetoploader]

I bought mine from Stan in 1998, or 1999.  I guess inflation took hold? I believe I paid less than $300.

[RustyCrankshaft]

I bought mine from Stan in 1998, or 1999.  I guess inflation took hold? I believe I paid less than $300.

Chrome or coated they're nearly 1k now. I think bare steel they're 600 or so. Brad and Josh around the corner at Performance Coatings (behind Blood's) is who coats them for Stans. Not sure who is chroming them these days, but it used to be Art Brass.

[wayne]

I had Hedman's on mine they worked good.

[HarleyJack17]

I run Heddman's on mine. With BBM Aluminum Heads.  No long term updates but they fit, no major changes from the D2 location. Ports laid out looked to match up very very close. I suspect I will have no issues but only run time has been weekly warm ups, backing out in the drive way and disturbing the neighbor hood.  Unless you are dead set on keeping the engine bay looking OEM I would spend money on getting newer heads, RPM intake, and a custom cam if you want the most out of it for the intended use. There are shelf cams that would do the job, but for more money you get more bang for the buck........I see now how I went from rebuild to full build and my account shows it HAHA. Just add $$.