Author Topic: 390 shakes at 1000 rpm – 1500 rpm – 2000 rpm, runs smoothly at 3000-3500 rpm.  (Read 12334 times)

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Clark Coe

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What causes the very stock 390 in my ’68 Mustang to shake at 1000 rpm, 1500 rpm and most actively vibration at 2000 rpm? This condition is a shake/vibration (steering wheel quivers) and does not feel or sound like a misfire, exhaust tone is clean and even.  Idles smooth at 550 rpm. At 3000-3500 rpm, no shake, no vibration.

To test the fan clutch and Ford seven blade fan for the source of this problem; I ran the engine with the alternator and power steering belts removed. The vibration remained.

This engine has always been a little rough. But after I installed a TKO 600 5-speed, 2000 rpm is the engine speed to cruise 65 mph on the highway. I am disappointed; I was expecting a butter smooth driving experience while cruising down the highway.

This engine is a budget rebuild, assembled by me in 1980. I started with a factory original 1968 X-Code (2V- 10.5 compression) 390 core I removed from a running ’68 GT Torino. I did not have the engine rotating components dynamically balanced…wish I had done this.

Here are some details:

Stock points distributor with new bushings. 16 degrees initial and 21 distributor degrees at 3300 rpm 18 inches of vacuum at idle. Stock Ford black with yellow ignition coil.

Pistons are 9.5 CR cast Badger P172 .030” over.    148 – 150 psi cranking pressure.

Stock rods were re-bushed and honed to fit.

Harmonic Balancer is original Ford.  Timing marks are in the correct position. Outer ring has not slipped.

Do not know what cam I installed. May be the stock 390 X-Code cam from original engine. Mild profile.

Ford 600 CFM carburetor C8OF 9510-0 with a newer Holley kit.

Cylinders Heads stock C8AE-H – Rebuilt in 1980.

Streetmaster intake – not modified.

Stock GT exhaust manifolds and stock exhaust system.

McLeod steel flywheel 30 pound. New last year. Does not have the external (428) counter weight installed…I am smarter than that.

Pressure plate and clutch as supplied with TKO600 conversion from Modern Driveline.

What causes this vibration and what will be required to fix it?  What next? Help Please? After 44+ years employment with one company and at age 68, I have finally retired and am looking forward to having time to be driving my Mustang....need to get it fixed.

Clark
« Last Edit: January 27, 2021, 09:46:47 PM by Clark Coe »

SMA390

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Does it vibrate while parked , driving , or both ? While it's driving ONLY would be a whole separate issue than if it did while idling also.

GerryP

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It could be bad engine or transmission mounts.  It could be the trans input shaft is not properly aligned to the crank.  I know you say it's not a misfire, but it still could be if the carburetor is running lean or you have a wire crossfire.

Other things it could be are the substance of bad dreams.  Bent rod, cracked crank...that kind of stuff.

RJP

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Where to start?...A vibration could be anything and volumes can be written on the subject. That said did it always vibrate from the time you built the engine? What flywheel? Vibration dampener? Does it vibrate out of gear, in gear, both? From my experience with a similar vibration problem on my F250 2wd, 390 +.030" mild hyd cam, single 600 Holley on a Streetmaster manifold it also had a shake at about the same rpm as yours. After changing the Street master for a iron "S" manifold, no other changes, even the same 600 carb the shake/shimmy was gone. All I could think of with this swap was the S/M had a idle/low speed fuel distribution problem. The "S" manifold is a dual plane, small runner high velocity manifold. I did not need to save the 50 or so pounds using an aluminum manifold on a 4800 lb truck. An added benefit of the S manifold was that my fuel mileage increased about 1.5-2 mpg, better low end torque even increased midrange torque somewhat. IMO a win/win situation all the way around plus it freed up a aluminum manifold for something more worthy and beneficial.

Clark Coe

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This 2000 rpm vibration occurs when parked and also out on the highway.


It could be bad engine or transmission mounts.  It could be the trans input shaft is not properly aligned to the crank.  I know you say it's not a misfire, but it still could be if the carburetor is running lean or you have a wire crossfire.

Other things it could be are the substance of bad dreams.  Bent rod, cracked crank...that kind of stuff.
Engine motor mounts are in excellent condition and the transmission mount is brand new with the TKO600 conversion.

Where to start?...A vibration could be anything and volumes can be written on the subject. That said did it always vibrate from the time you built the engine? What flywheel? Vibration dampener? Does it vibrate out of gear, in gear, both? From my experience with a similar vibration problem on my F250 2wd, 390 +.030" mild hyd cam, single 600 Holley on a Streetmaster manifold it also had a shake at about the same rpm as yours. After changing the Street master for a iron "S" manifold, no other changes, even the same 600 carb the shake/shimmy was gone. All I could think of with this swap was the S/M had a idle/low speed fuel distribution problem. The "S" manifold is a dual plane, small runner high velocity manifold. I did not need to save the 50 or so pounds using an aluminum manifold on a 4800 lb truck. An added benefit of the S manifold was that my fuel mileage increased about 1.5-2 mpg, better low end torque even increased midrange torque somewhat. IMO a win/win situation all the way around plus it freed up a aluminum manifold for something more worthy and beneficial.
Years ago I was fighting shrunken FelPro intake gaskets and closed off Holley idle circuit channels on my carburetor both at the same time. During this time, I had a Police Interceptor and a Sidewinder intakes on this motor. And now I am trying the Streetmaster. So I have lost my way in remembering exactly how it ran with the Police Interceptor. I will tell you that the Sidewinder did not seal well at the intake ports of my C8AE-H heads.

Has anyone else had vibration (fuel distribution) problem with Streetmaster intakes on low performance, low rpm motors? I really like weight savings of an aluminum FE intake. I have an aluminum Edelbrock water pump too.
« Last Edit: January 28, 2021, 06:10:16 PM by Clark Coe »

Cyclone03

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21deg of timing seems about 15deg retarded.
Lance H

Clark Coe

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21deg of timing seems about 15deg retarded.

37 degrees total at 3300 rpm. I have made a correction to my original post. 16 degrees initial and 21 degrees in the distributor.

Sorry for the confusion.

Blueoval77

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So to back up a little . this thing didnt have this exact vibration before the trans swap ? If no then there you go . I take it the can be duplicated sitting in neutral ? Or is this only under load ? Saying it always ran a little rough . you mean idle ? Load ? No load ?

Gaugster

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Sounds like you have checked a lot of the typical sources. Can you get a view of the running flywheel and see if became bent somehow? How about the electrical system. Any loose power or ground cables/wires?

Was the TKO used to replace an Automatic? If so the vacuum system would have changed. Perhaps it effects the distributor advance.
« Last Edit: January 27, 2021, 11:25:37 PM by Gaugster »
John - '68 Cougar XR7 390 FE (X-Code) 6R80 AUTO

chris401

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I've not been into the guts of a TKO but you can eliminate them buy disengaging the clutch. If it is still there the pressure plate or flywheel could be out of balance. If the pressure plate is off center you'll probably feel it easing off the clutch.

It could be a valve is not closing fast enough while running. Usually does not show up during cranking compression test. Pull your Shrader valve and do a running compression test. Your needle will be bouncing fast but will be readable. High side should be about 35psi. If a valve event is the cause that cylinder will have weak reading about 20 psi or less.

sixty9cobra

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Has the fan been checked? Stock, flex?

447 Stroker

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Harmonic signature in tire? ( I build tires for a living ) It could be as simple as radial force variation in the tire, which is basically the roundness of a tire and the different stiffness the joints create.

wayne

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Clutch fan bad. Try to unhook the vacuum advance i have had them go bad and made the engine shake.

shady

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I'd start with a compression check.
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chris401

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He covered the last four responses in his original post. Or at least as of 4pm yesterday.