Author Topic: Dove head questions  (Read 604 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

gregaba

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 418
    • View Profile
Dove head questions
« on: October 18, 2020, 09:41:40 AM »
I was at my machine shop yesterday and my machinist has a set of Cove heads he will sell me.
he will take the Dove valve seats out and install beryllium seats in it.
 He has checked them and they have passed all of his tests. He was going to use them for a build that didn't happen.
My question is what did you guys do to make headers fit with the raised exhaust.
Thanks
Greg

KMcCullah

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 658
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2020, 10:20:39 AM »
Cool find! Make sure they have been pressure tested. Depending on which head they are, they might have the wide valve locations. Which means having to scallop the crap out of top of the cylinders to clear the valves on a small bore. Rocker gear might be tricky too. As far as the exhaust ports go. You might get lucky by slotting the bolt holes on a good set of headers. It's a lot of work. For the amount of work involved adapting, I'd probably make flanges and build a set of equal length stepped headers.
Kevin McCullah


XR7

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 259
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2020, 10:32:09 AM »
I could be wrong, but my understanding is that the front two and the rear two exhaust ports are spread apart to straighten the ports. So you cut the header flange in two in the middle of the four ports or full flange, and spread them apart. The front and rear "pairs" have a stock bolt pattern for two ports, just with a wider gap in the center. I cut my flanges into 4 pieces anyway so I wouldn't think it is a big deal as long as you have a slip fit collector (I don't have DOVE heads but it wouldn't matter). I have never had a set Dove PIE heads in my hands to measure, but saw a set on an assembled engine, and it was pretty noticeable. I think the whole flange is raised so the port to the flange relationship should be pretty close, you may have to do some messing with the bolt holes as mentioned if they are off far enough.
68 Cougar XR7 GT street legal, 9.47@144.53, 3603# at the line, 487 HR center oiler, single carb, Jerico 4 speed, 10.5 tires, stock(er) suspension, all steel full interior

gregaba

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 418
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2020, 01:01:06 PM »
These have the wide valve location and use 2 1/4 intake's. I didn't have much time as I was trying to get back on the road for the 4 hour drive home but when I go back to pick up my balanced assembly I will take a closer look. I did notice that the end bolts will have to have longer studs as the bolt holes go at least to the valve cover rail.
I don't mind cutting the flanges but my welding leaves a lot to be desired and I can't have any leaks because of the EFI I will be running with it.
My good welder passed away some time ago so I guess I would have to trust someone I don't know.
These are from the machine and are guaranteed not to have any leaks etc. He has all ready checked them for the build that didn't happen.
Greg

cammerfe

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1298
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2020, 11:42:55 PM »
For all practical purposes, Jim Dove had three different exhaust runner layouts. One was the stock FoMoCo design.

His second design had the angle of the runner raised to straighten the path. It also had different spacing. And, to finish things off, The shape of the runner was also changed, with one of the lower corners being filled in. When I used second design exhaust runners, I had to use full custom headers. They're easy to recognize, since the extended end of the runners as you look at the outside of the head, common with FE heads, look entirely different just at a glance. And you can roll a piece of paper and shove it into the runner. It'll stick UP at a very significant angle, with the head on the bench in an approximation of the orientation of a head installed on a block.. The primary pipes coming off the flange should follow that same angle for at least for six inches or so before attempting any curve away from straight. There is NO WAY to use the second design in any car with the intruding spring pockets. You'll have to remove the entire construction, lower the pivot for the upper arm and move it outboard, and shorten the upper arm to re-create the proper geometry. We did it on Brother Lon's '67 Mustang. To get enough room to not compromise the header design, the front suspension required Coil-over shocks moved out into the wheel well and acting on the lower arm. The upper mount was incorporated into the stainless plate we fabricated to fill in the window in the inner panel where the spring tower was originally placed.

Dove's third design was much less radical and simply necessitated raising the header flange up about 3/4 of an inch, in effect raising the entire header.

Since Dove had the ability to mix-'n'-match the features he put into a given head, you need to be very sure as to what you have in a given head. The set we used the second design on had a TP intake side. Good luck!

KS

garyv

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 242
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #5 on: October 19, 2020, 07:54:06 AM »
I don't know what you are building but here's my 2 cents for what it's worth. I've seen some
 Dove stuff.  Some of it is good and some not so good.  Like Ken said Dove mixed and matched
stuff so you have to know what you are getting. Sounds like these may have the modified exhaust ports and could require special headers. Unless they are dirt cheap I'd pass on them.  Remember they will still need work to make them usable and that costs $$$.
Considering all the unknowns I think you would be way ahead to have one of the builders prep you a set of Trick Flow heads. They will support a lot of HP and you will know for sure what you have.

Good luck
garyv

gregaba

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 418
    • View Profile
Re: Dove head questions
« Reply #6 on: October 19, 2020, 08:08:52 AM »
From the description these are the second design.
Since my car is mainly a street car I think I will pass on the heads. My welding skills are not good enough for me to build a set of headers and I don't have the extra cash to pay someone for it.
I think I will just go with the TFS heads as they will be enough for what I plan to use the car for.
Thanks for the information, It is really helpful to get opinions from people who have experience with what I want to do.
Greg