Author Topic: Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352  (Read 1281 times)

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chilly460

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Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352
« on: September 11, 2020, 08:32:04 PM »
In another thread, I described a 352 I'm working on.  Quick summary, it's an old 352 shortblock my father ran in a dirt track stocker in the mid 60s.  352 block and crank, LeMans rods, Jahns 332 pistons, 246* HiRiser FoMoCo cam, and it has one C3 427 head and a C1 generic head on it when I got it.  It also has two .050" cylinders and the rest are .040", with .040" pistons all around...this is definitely a cheapie build but I want to keep it as is for my father.

I bought another C1 head and tried my hand at porting the intake ports, then sent off to Les Schmader to look over and make sure I didn't screw them up, and do guides/valvejob and ported the exhaust as I didn't have time to finish up.  I cobbled together spring/retainer/lock package from TFS takeoffs, and Ferrea 11/32" 2.15/1.65 valves. 

Les said the ports were ok, he did clean up the guide as I just couldn't get a cutter on them that didn't chatter like hell, otherwise my shape was used.  He smoothed them up a bit but they're definitely not as nice as his work I saw in the shop and on the exhausts he did, I definitely need to get a steadier hand.  Admittedly, I didn't go through a lot of calcs to get throat size to match CI and flow requirements, this is my first port work besides some 460 exhaust port work to remove thermactor humps, so I just wanted to dig in and get a feel for it.  I did try to widen the short turn to slow it down over the low floor, and raise the roof a bit.  I didn't touch the floor other than knock casting flash and junk off.  I worked on a "bump" in the vertical wall short turn quite a bit as it forms a "ski jump" in the middle of the port, and some rough transitions into the bowl.  I did take out the bumps for the rocker bolts, which seems to be a mixed opinion on these, but I wanted to raise the roof and they have to come out to do so.  Learned a lot, learned I really don't have a smooth hand with the grinder yet, and want to keep doing more now that I've recovered. 

Immediate things I notice with the closeups, how chewed up the port edges look, need to keep the cutter moving.  Also, the corners are getting too much grinder time and there is less metal taken on the flat surfaces causing a "bow" on long flat surfaces.  Not sure it hurts flow or not, but something to try to improve on. 

.200   168cfm    115cfm
.300   250cfm    155cfm
.400   263cfm    179cfm
.500   284cfm    193cfm
.600   295cfm    198cfm
.700   298cfm    202cfm







My427stang

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Re: Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2020, 07:08:05 AM »
You may have some beginner's "signature" on there, but those numbers are stout and run with the CnC ported CJs we just used from Craft.

Once you get the heavy parts moving, that 352 should make some power!

Nice work!
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

KMcCullah

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Re: Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2020, 08:35:32 AM »
Looks good, Chilly! I've spent many hours grinding on iron heads. Yours look just about as good as my first. It takes while to develop techniques. Those valve guide bosses are still a bitch for me. I discovered a local welding supply shop that had a large selection of carbide burrs. Tons of different shapes and lengths. They help. It took me a while to figure out what shapes worked best for certain spots in the ports. I got good at pre heating and brazing up my mistakes too. Messed up a N casting once.

For the money, Schmader is hard to beat. He did a pair of C4-G heads for me years ago. 2.15/1.65. They flowed about the same as yours. Worked well with a port matched ED RPM on a 390. Won a few mud drags too.
Kevin McCullah


chilly460

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Re: Ported C1AE's for my shadetree 352
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2020, 10:52:36 AM »
Thanks for the feedback.  One thing that did help was getting away from cheapie harbor freight air grinders that were so out of round that they would bend any 6 inch shafted burr I would put in there and bought a decent Makita