comet front suspension?

[fe66comet]

I see a lot of guys cutting the front end out of their Fords. Why is this? I am planning to use the stock arrangement and add polyurethane bushings at the strut rod and lower controlled arm. I purchased stock height springs, new upper control arm rods and solid bushings. Next was going to be QA1 8 way adjustable road race shocks, new spring mounts and a 1 1/8 sway bar. I intend on installing tower supports both to the cage lower and crosswise to the firewall with 1" chromo tube. Is this inadequate for big G cornering? Thanks Guru's

[machoneman]

Buy this book FoMoCo authorized first:

http://www.amazon.com/1969-70-MUSTANG-Chassis-Modification-eb2060N/dp/B001B8DAZW

The original 1969-1970 Trans-Am Mustangs, factory sponsored, could corner at 1.1 G's. with these mods. Add the poly bushings or poly graphite bushings at all points EXCEPT the #1 frame member where the A-Arm strut rods are supported. All too often, using the hard poly-e bushings at the strut rod position causes them to snap in the threaded area between the area where the OEM rubber insulators meet up....usually with disastrous results. The poly is too stiff to allow movement in this critical area, especially with used rods that have lots of miles.  Using even OEM (Moog) rubber here is better.

I've done the shock tower mods to my '70 Mach 1 (with a hot 358 Windsor though, not an FE) ala' the chassis manual, had the SMB-K fast ratio steering box renewed, added 600 lb countour coils, race shocks, a 1.25" bar and the Dr. Gas/Pro Motor caster/camber eliminator kit plus the Baer Racing tie rod end Heim joints (now called the bump steer eliminator kit) and...could not be happier.

On edit; you have to get roller spring perches, Buy them or make them as noted:

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/

This is a terrific addition for street/strip/open track work. Sell your new OEM rubber perches if need be but this is a great product.

[fe66comet]

I was looking for an improved version of the perches but had not found them so I did not buy them yet. I guess new strut rods would be in order with them being prone to breakage as the front end and cross member show signs of taking some hard hits. I have to make new mounts, they are bent and cracked where the rod mounts. Maybe I will add some bearing pivots there also. I am going with a flaming river rack to take care of steering so my ratio is not determined yet?

[fe66comet]

Found these rods for Mustangs look a little shorter than my Comet ones but I could change the adjuster sleeve?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/gls-asr-4

[machoneman]

Have no idea if the Comet has longer struts, maybe someone else here knows although it's odd that only the 'Stang is listed in the apps chart.

The steel "universal joint" rods are good. Only one drawback and that's if you do SCCA-type gymkhanas (in big parking lots) or road race events on (high) curbed tracks. Hit a curb hard and those struts will not break (like the OEM strut rods) but will rip out the formed, welded steel #1 crossmember mounts (the ones you need to replace anyway).  Neither is a good situation but some weekend warriors would prefer a broken strut (easy to repair) versus a wrecked mount (welding, needs to be pretty precisely located). 

[fe66comet]

One of those were twisted in a previous wreck on the left side so it probably should be replaced anyhow, I was thinking of duplicating the cross braces and engine cross member out of 3 1/16 steel then boxing the frame rail to the transmission mount. Also a Daytona bar on top to the firewall from both towers. Might add about 60 pounds to the front end but I have taken a couple hundred away already if not more.

[ScotiaFE]

Fairlane strut is straight at the lower a arm connection and is a little longer than a Stang rod.
The Stang rod has a bend at the lower control arm.
They are not interchangeable.

[fe66comet]

I am thinking these off a 67 Boss 302 would work with a longer adjuster sleeve. Otherwise they should go, the bar end is identical to mine.

[Faron]

67 ? 69-70 were The Boss Mustangs

[fetorino]

Your Comet and my Fairlane and Torino are al the same lower strut rod and control arm as a 68-70 Mustang.

If you are interested I have a set of Global west Tubular lower control arms and TCP strut rods with a few miles I would make you a deal on.

They were on my Torino so I have fit checked them for you.

PM me if you are interested.

[afret]

These strut rods are nice:

http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Adjustable-Strut-Rods-pr-16135.html

Don't use polyurethane strut rod bushings.  They are too stiff and the rods could break.

[Faron]

Poly Bushings on my 68 Since early 80's , if the Rods break they have been damaged or Rusted , NOT because of bushings

[ScotiaFE]

Your Comet and my Fairlane and Torino are al the same lower strut rod and control arm as a 68-70 Mustang.

I have a 67 Fairlane and a 68 Mustang side by side and the strut rod is not the same.
The Mustang has a bend in it and the Fairlane is straight.
I've owned these cars forever and the rods are as came from the factory.
Somewhere in boxs I have spare rods for both cars, I'll have to look around for them.
just saying

[fe66comet]

I don't really know either way? The rod I posted in the picture fits s 67 Mustang according to the manufacturer. That one is definitely strait or I am seeing crooked LOL. Beyond that I have not a clue??

[fe66comet]

OK here is what I found:


64-66

67

68 up
Mine look like picture #1 but no info on the lenght
I know the last one won't work but the other two are a possibility, if extended with a .095 walled adjuster sleeve