Mallory Unilite issue

[BattlestarGalactic]

Ok, have run one in the wagon for decades.  I put one in the black car last summer with a 6al box.  Works perfect, runs better then ever.

This past weekend I finally was able to get the black car out and I wanted to take it for a drive Sunday evening.  I got some fuel and headed out.  I got 5 miles from home and it died suddenly.  I was able to quickly turn into a parking lot.  It sneezed a couple times and then nothing.  I pulled the coil wire off and laid it out on the throttle linkage and cranked.  I would spark ONCE when I turned the key on, nothing while cranking, and one spark when I let off the key.  Ugh.

Having free towing, I made the call(big mistake I later found out).  A buddy just happen to be at that plaza and came over.  We talked, I told him what happened and I had help coming.  He left a while later. 

This first happened at 8 pm.  It was 9:45 when I get a call from my "insurance person" and was informed they couldn't find a wrecker available.  Say WHAT??  (they couldn't find a cut rate wrecker was the real truth).  At that point I reached in, hit the key and the car actually started and idled.  I then gave that person a piece of my mind about their "Free towing" and I then drove the car home without issue.  Today I am changing insurance carriers.

Ok, back to the issue.  Seems strange that the Unilite "failed" just enough then recouped after cooling off?  I have run it off the existing resistor coil wire because the Mallory instructions say you can(even with an MSD).  The sheet says you can run it either way in very simple diagrams.  I knew Pertonix must use 12v.  The wagon runs on 12v, but it only runs for a few minutes at a time so no heat ever gets to it.  I'm not sure if I should try it again?  Replace it and run it on 12v?  Or just find another distributor(like a dual point) and just go back to old school.

[My427stang]

Typical Unilite going bad, look for an Accel Points Eliminator kit, it is the same module and much cheaper

Two things with the Unilite.

1 - The Red feed line to the unilte is strong, as is the bulb, it can take 14V, and can live on anything above 10V, so if you want to resist it later, fine to do so.  However, it doesn't like surging either.  If you replace it, they do make a surge protector.  I am not sure it does much.

2 - The real issue with a Unilite is power from the coil to the green wire, if you have a Unilte and are triggering it at .5 volts, or whatever the MSD does, it should last forever, but it is an electronic thing and could have had a random failure or manufacturing error. 

After checking connections, etc, I'd likely get the Accel module and throw it in the glove box and watch it, if it fails, you swap it quickly, if it doesn't, your spare is there

I love the Unilite modules (well I love the Accel, because the price is way better) but they can be finicky, although so can Pertronix.

[HarleyJack17]

Sounds like a typical heat caused electronic failure. BUT it may be there is a bad connection of some sort and it "grew" with heat. Far fetched but could be.
I would A: make sure you can get a wrecker B: try straight 12V. If it is bad it will show up again. 

I have a hard time believing it would be set up for a resistor wire but they put it in print...just seems a tad odd as you indicated.  There is a good chance the instructions are wrong and low voltage could definitely "mess" with the brain, does mine everyday. HAHAHA.

Good luck and completely understand your frustration on the towing.  Last time I needed it, I called the wrecker and got towed and just sent the bill to the insurer...but that was a while ago and they all have different protocols.

[BattlestarGalactic]

There is no "road side fixing" with a blower drive hanging over the distributor.  Unfortunately.  I have to pull the blower to get the cap off.  Ya, I'm full of all kinds of fun things.  Lol.

I have contemplated a crab cap, but the distributor body is taller making it just as useless to access.  Dont ask me why they did that?

I just moved car out of the garage, runs fine, but I'm not going far in it!  I have to make some decisions on what i am going to change.

[jayb]

Larry, have you thought about going with a front mount distributor?  If you have room between the blower belt that might be a good solution.  I did a prototype setup for one a while back, using one of my timing covers with the removable front plate.  It looked workable...

BTW I hate Unilites, been stranded more than once by those things...

[chris401]

Another thing I have found with Ford's is the ignition switch. Running ignition power and cranking ignition are on two different tabs inside the switch. Outside of carrying around a spare testing headlight and harness, waiting for it to act up, it can be a pain to find when intermittent.

[BattlestarGalactic]

Larry, have you thought about going with a front mount distributor?  If you have room between the blower belt that might be a good solution.  I did a prototype setup for one a while back, using one of my timing covers with the removable front plate.  It looked workable...

BTW I hate Unilites, been stranded more than once by those things...

Even with a stock waterpump?  Seems like something would have to give to get something on the front of the motor.

I've seen those remote mount distributors using a small gilmer belt.  Falls in line with those Swartz offset distributors.   $900 is a bit extreme and the reason I haven't purchased one yet.

Another thing I have found with Ford's is the ignition switch. Running ignition power and cranking ignition are on two different tabs inside the switch. Outside of carrying around a spare testing headlight and harness, waiting for it to act up, it can be a pain to find when intermittent.

Chris, I am aware of ignition switch issues.  My '69 F100 had problems like that.  It would run only as long as I cranked it.  Chased it to a loose plug on the back of the ignition switch.  Seems the plastic locks were broken off years ago that held it tight.  I kept my eye on that plug for years until I finally bought the replacement switch/harness and replaced all that just this spring.  I shouldn't have any problems now.  I know I've felt around and that plug was "warm" to the touch after driving.  Seems that was a warranty issue way back then.  Mine was still all original, so I was lucky.

[jayb]

Larry, have you thought about going with a front mount distributor?  If you have room between the blower belt that might be a good solution.  I did a prototype setup for one a while back, using one of my timing covers with the removable front plate.  It looked workable...

BTW I hate Unilites, been stranded more than once by those things...

Even with a stock waterpump?  Seems like something would have to give to get something on the front of the motor.

Nope, but here's your chance to go remote electric 

[BattlestarGalactic]

Ugh, some other electrical doodad to fail?  Might as well go with points Lol!

Friend was giving me greif over my vintage moroso water pump drive on the Dyno.  I told them at least you can see it working(or not).  Those fancy $350 pumps are mystery machines til the temp skyrockets to let you know it failed!  In 25 seasons I have replaced that little motor once.  It would run, but only if you spun it to start it.  I try to spray some oil in the bushings every spring.

In that conversation they hassled me over my antique 1850 Holleys.  I said I spent too much on that water pump drive to afford new carbs. LMAO!  Don't get me started on my mech tach and lack of a shift light.

[cjshaker]

I doubt you're turning your engine over 5500, are you? For reliability, and not having easy access, points may just be the way to go. Can you trigger the 6AL with points? I'm not sure. I used points to trigger the MSD Blaster ignition in my old '68 Highboy. It worked great for 20+ years without having to mess with them. Gap doesn't matter since the ignition is only looking for a trigger signal. Only one time did I ever have to mess with that setup, and that's when the rubbing block broke off the points a year or two after I rebuilt the engine. Replaced the points and never touched them again. Of course that was an old set of points. Not sure how well new sets hold up on the rubbing block because I've still got several old stock sets.

I know points sound counter intuitive, but they are reliable and trouble free for engines that don't see higher RPM's, and the ignition still provides all the benefits of big sparks.

That Blaster ignition is now in my '70 F350, going on 26+ years of use without a problem.

[BattlestarGalactic]

The problem I had with the points was bounce and it would break up above 4000 rpm.  That was my reason for using the unilite and 6al box I had laying in the garage.

My 69 f100 still has a mallory dual point distributor and runs just fine.

[My427stang]

The problem I had with the points was bounce and it would break up above 4000 rpm.  That was my reason for using the unilite and 6al box I had laying in the garage.

My 69 f100 still has a mallory dual point distributor and runs just fine.

My gut says one of two options - swap for a fresh module and make sure all voltages and connections are good

Second option, crank trigger with either locked timing if it works for you, or electronically controlled.  At least it would keep you from having to pull the blower when something failed

I guess you could double up on a points spring and have it trigger the MSD, but then you'll fight cam/block wear on the points I think, and if it's not easy to get in there, you fight the same baloney

[BattlestarGalactic]

Ross, you clearly see my dilemma for the past 20 years.  Thus i did nothing and put up with those stock points.  I finally gave it a change and that is failing quickly.

I've thought of a trigger and locking timing.  Just need a start retard like I put in the wagon.

Decisions, decisions.(money or a lot of money).

[cjshaker]

The problem I had with the points was bounce and it would break up above 4000 rpm. 

I'm sure you probably tried different points, but have to ask because that sounds like a really weak set of points. I used to turn mine 5500 on a semi-regular basis, like a couple times a week, for a couple decades. From what I've heard (never used a set), new points are fairly weak and won't hold up well. The vintage NOS points I always used never had that problem. They're still not too difficult to find, although a bit pricey for what they are. Anyway, just a thought.

[e philpott]

Use the points to trigger the MSD , I've got a customer using points to trigger a 6AL and it's trouble free for over 5 years now , see's maybe 3K miles a season . With the MSD it just uses points as a ON-OFF switch and has no Coil current running through it like points , points last forever in those conditions