The little carbs will usually run into fuel curve problems as power level increases. Dale touched on power potential with OE carbs, as in Stock and Super Stock apps. You can milk lots of power from OE carbs, but it becomes a science to keep the curve nice in the band that you are trying to run in.
I have done a ton of 2x4 tunnel wedge engines in the last ten years. Booster signal and management of the curve ends up being the focus to make power and run smoothly. An unhappy carb(s) will make the engine surge through a loaded pull. The dyno software usually "smooths" the surging, but screwy break specifics and lambda A/F numbers will still remain.
Drew is making some hints and speculations that would prove out if he did get to test his ideas. I think that less than 600 cfm carbs is a waste of time. If one thinks they might be "too much", use vacuum secs and play with the opening rate. Smooth but quick opening will always feel better and make more power, even on smaller engines. We do a bunch of 4160 style carbs for the big strokers. Some approach 1000 cfm each. It takes a healthy big engine, like 900+ hp to really benefit from big venturi carbs. Hard to beat a good working pair of 660s. They get fussy around 800 hp and need fuel curve tuning. As power increases, the 850s or more modified main bodies become easier to tune.
Small venturi, like 1.320, with a 1-11/16 throttle bore, are usually super good for 650 to 800 hp streetable and raceable engines. We pick a venturi size and throttle bore based on past experience, and then find main bodies that can get there. Custom tapered end mills, and radius-entry or straight taper entry custom end mills are used to get where we want to go. My man simulates booster signal and tunes the boosters to fit what we anticipate we will see. High speed, emulsion, and transition tuning all come into play.
If I were you Ross, taking a stab without much history to look at on what you describe, I would get a couple of main bodies around 1.250 to 1.313 venturi, and re taper the bottom to accept a 1-11/16 baseplate. Depending on engine size and power level, you may have to add some emulsion and go up on the high speed bleeds......maybe, maybe not. The transition bleeds are a driveability deal, and it can be done with a manual load dyno so you can simulate some driving conditions. Takes a lot of time.......