Need some 9" help

[mike7570]

Working on my Shelby stocker project (slowly) I have a dilemma. I'm using a big bore Strange case for 35 spline axles. The question is do I stay with the Mustang small housing ends or do I replace them with the big ford ends?
Maybe some of the racers here could give me there opinion?

[jayb]

I always replace mine with the big ends.  In fact, I'll often replace them with the pro street ends available from Mark Williams, because they allow the use of a really heavy duty bearing.  But I would at least go with the big Ford ends.  JMO - Jay

[afret]

For a car that sees street duty, it's a good idea to go with the big bearing housing ends but for a race car, the small bearing ends will work fine especially if you want to stay with 10" drums which won't work with the big bearing ends.  The 11" drums for the big ends are too heavy. If you want to go to rear discs, then the big bearing ends might be better.

We just use the small bearing ends with drums on the stocker.  Looks like Pond might have the same:



How's your Shelby project coming along?

[fe66comet]

I have used the late Torino big bearing ends with the taper bearing axle conversion from Currie and it is a heavy duty setup. Very popular setup in big tire 4/4s.

[mike7570]

Afret, on your Mustang if you use the 10" drums for weight savings have you compared the weight to a disc setup?
My last 2 cars were trans brake .90 cars so I wasn't as worried about the brakes holding on the line. I'm a little concerned that if I go 4 wheel disc it might not hold as well as using drums in the rear?
The Shelby has been neglected since the economy hurt my income. I'm picking up parts when I find deals to good to pass up. I'm trying to get the suspension finished up so it can go in for body work and paint. I hope to get that far by summer. 

[afret]

Nope, never had the chance to compare weights but I would think lightweight rear discs would weigh less and hold better.  The car came with drums all around and I switched to Wilwood discs in the front but never got around to doing the rear since the car stops fine.  Might switch later on though. 
We just got through bodywork and painting but still haven't got the engine together. 

Good luck with your car.  Maybe you could post photos of your progress from time to time.

[mike7570]

Mine also came with all drums. I have Wilwoods for the front but I have a bare 9" housing to work with for the rear. I picked up the Strange case and ball bearing pinion support and I was thinking of adding a back brace and the larger housing ends (who knows I might put it on the street with a big FE some day) For stock I'll be building into a '67 Shelby clone. I have all of the fiberglass and trim. For the 428 I have the correct PI intake, a cross bolted 428 block, the correct Holley 850, crank and some misc. parts. I still need heads and I was talking with a few of the other FE racers and I was thinking of the small valve Edlebrocks (not sure) I think I may have a couple of pictures (need to take some more)
   
To something like:
           

[jayb]

Our forum member thatdarncat has a 67 Shelby bracket car.  You guys should get along swimmingly   FYI a Wilwood vented rotor rear disc brake kit weighs 32 pounds for the pair, and the solid rotor rear disc brake kit weighs 26 pounds; these are the weights I recorded on a couple of kits installed on my cars.  I don't know what the rear drum setups weigh, but the front drum setup on my Galaxie, which is pretty big, weighed 42 pounds.  Also I haven't had any problem holding my cars on the line with the rear disc setups.

[afret]

The '67 Shelbys look really nice.  I can see why you're thinking of going with the small valve heads.  30 horsepower for the big valves sounds like a lot.

Oh, and you can now use racing seats like Kirkeys now in Stock if you want but looks like we have to go back to the stock rubber strut rod end bushings now.

[ScotiaFE]

For a car that sees street duty, it's a good idea to go with the big bearing housing ends but for a race car, the small bearing ends will work fine especially if you want to stay with 10" drums which won't work with the big bearing ends.  The 11" drums for the big ends are too heavy. If you want to go to rear discs, then the big bearing ends might be better.

We just use the small bearing ends with drums on the stocker.  Looks like Pond might have the same:



How's your Shelby project coming along?

Does anyone know who made the link under Robert's car.
His looks better than mine. lol

[BruceS]

Howie, who made the rear links on your Fairlane?  They look pretty good to me, assuming they work well too?  Thanks, Bruce

[ScotiaFE]

Hey Bruce
The springs are 6 leaf truck shop springs I had made.
The housing is a custom thing with 3" heavy wall tubes and Currie axles and big bearings and stuff.
The sway link is a Addco with longer length links and frame fitted connectors.
The links that came with it were to short and put the bar at a funny angle.
And a set of Caltracs.
Shocks are KYB jobs.
Seems to work pretty good for buggy sprung. lol
I built it for long distance highway cruising.
We regularly pile over a 1000 lbs in it and head out on the highway.
I know your thinking 1000 lbs?
4 adults and a trunk full of BBQ gear and head to a show.
The BFG's are not so good for traction, but work decent in the rain and in my area you have to be prepaired to run in the rain.

I like the sway link on Roberts car.

[fe66comet]

The most economical way and using off the shelf parts is to go with 13" cobrs bakes off a 93 - 2004 Cobra mustang. Currie has the brackets or complete kit along with rotor upgrades.

[afret]

Don't know who made it but another shot of the bar.  Hope it helps.