Which oil pan? & windage tray or not?

[fairlaniac]

Looking to buy a 7 qt. oil pan. Which fits a '66 Fairlane best? Milodon, Canton or Moroso. Gonna use FPA headers for now. Also, to use a windage tray/pan or not? Street car 427/484 with a few passes annually at the FE Race & Reunion?

Thanks,

[475fetoploader]

I just got a canton in the mail last week, it looks to be of nice quality. I’ve owned milodon on a Chevrolet thought it was kinda cheesy. I’m personally a fan of windage trays, especially if you’re going to turn it a bit. I’m not a fan of stacking things between the block and the pan, just because it doubles the chance of a leak. I imagine if care is taken you can keep it from leaking though.

[Nightmist66]

Milodon 31130 pan. Seems decent and the newer ones have a revised drain to get most of the oil out, but still on the side of the pan. I recommend the Canton screen tray. Even the factory tray is better than nothing. I am running a full scraper too, but you may not want to get that crazy. I do not use gaskets.

[thatdarncat]

Can you weld, or have a buddy that welds? I recently made one for my current project. I bracket race, and I wanted a little more oil control for the hard braking we do sometimes at the finish line. I like the Milodon FE pan, but it only has a baffle at the back of the sump going up a little further. You can get brand new reproduction FE oil pans for about $45 at the various Mustang/Cougar/Ford Resto stores, or EBay. The reproductions have the tie-rod reliefs too. The West Coast Classic Cougar ones come bare metal, makes it a little nicer so you don’t have to strip paint on the upper one. I bought 2, cut the sump off one. I happened to have a left over Moroso deep pickup, so I used that. You will likely have a bunch of time into fabricating this ( I did lol ), so if your time is limited you may just want to buy one. I mocked it up, cut a hole in the main upper pan for the pickup to go through, measured carefully where to cut the sump off the other pan, cut a v-notch at the back of the lower sump to fit upper pan, and time to set the location properly for the pickup depth from the bottom. Once all that was done my friend JericoGTX welded it up for me. I had him weld up the rear edge of the baffle the pan comes with to also keep oil from sloshing back. If you have a couple used FE oil pans you can of course use them.
If this interests you at all I have more pictures of making it. 





Here’s the pans I used to start with:

[CaptCobrajet]

Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom.  You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes.  When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now.  It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking.  Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.

[wowens]

Mr. Patrick
What accumulator do you recommend ?

[Leny Mason]

Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom.  You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes.  When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now.  It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking.  Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.

     
Blair what do you think about a windage  tray on a Moldon rear pan needed or not. Leny Mason

[thatdarncat]

Thatdarncat, you might think about putting some more slots or holes in there to let oil in the bottom.  You might suck that lower section dry before the oil can get back down there......oil pan mods can cause pain sometimes.  When Racepaks came along, we got proof of problems we always suspected with front sump pans. My car, and 90% of my customers' cars with front sump have accumulators now.  It helps oil pressure on launch in front sumps, and on braking with big rear sumps, and would also help you in finish line braking.  Oil pressure becomes a straight, consistent line on the data with the accumulators.

Thank you for the input, we can add some more holes. I do have an accumulator I planned on running.

[fairlaniac]

Thanks for the replies - went with Canton pan, pickup and screen/tray.

[CaptCobrajet]

I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators.  We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator.  With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.

Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.

[JamesonRacing]

I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators.  We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator.  With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.

Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.

Where do you typically mount the accumulator?  Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?

[BigBlueIron]

That can depend on how you actuate it. Manually by hand/cable or with electric solenoid. With the electric solenoid you can mount it wherever with the only concern being the length of the supply hose. 1/2" or 5/8" recommended, 5/8" for sure on the longer runs.

[CaptCobrajet]

I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators.  We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator.  With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.

Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.

Where do you typically mount the accumulator?  Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?

David, I like to put them in front of the radiator.  On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch.  Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion.  Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole.  He sells them.  I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley.  The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do.  I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.

[JamesonRacing]

I like the Moroso 3-quart accumulators.  We run about 20 psi of air in the empty accumulator.  With 80 psi oil pressure, it will put about 2.5 quarts in the tank before it equalizes with the engine oil pressure.

Leny, I would use the tray on the rear sump also.

Where do you typically mount the accumulator?  Does it work to move it to the trunk or up under the dash?

David, I like to put them in front of the radiator.  On my Mustang, it is under the hood latch.  Needs to be close to the engine in my opinion.  Years ago, I got Precision Oil Pumps to do the billet filter brackets with an extra 1/2" pipe hole.  He sells them.  I use a 45° fitting and #10 line to get right into the main galley.  The FL-1A filter will not flow backwards, as some do.  I recommend the regular Motorcraft filter for the best results.

Thanks Blair.  Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?

[Rory428]

Thanks Blair.  Seems that the side-oilers have a plug on the front of the oil galley...maybe a good spot to tap into the pressure side?
[/quote]That side oiler passage is pretty small....