Has anyone built a concrete block or cement walled garage recently?

[My427stang]

As a background, I am approaching 25 years of USAF time and have dropped my retirement papers.  Significance is that rather than moving every 3-4 years, and buying the house I plan to sell each time, I can put down some roots.

I spent 1/2 of my life in old school shops that you had very little concern of where welding, grinding etc went, because both of our businesses were in concrete structures.  Nowadays, steel buildings are the norm, but I still consider building at least maybe an extended foundation.  Is it affordable to go concrete?  or are there solutions for steel buildings that are a better bet?

I'll never get back to the volume of the old days, but I do intend to increase significantly and want to build something that doesn't limit me.  Current 4.5 car attached garage is a dream for most things, but I really need the ability to go big and dirty, and keep all the toys inside and away from Nebraska snow, hail, wind, etc

[Drew Pojedinec]

It is really hard to beat a metal building.
My 30x50 cost 20k installed, insulated, and with concrete etc.

Best bet is to call a local contractor and see what prices are.

[Joe-JDC]

I have built three detached garages over the years, and a couple of lessons I have learned from each of them. 24 x 40, 24 x 20, and 24 x 45. None were big enough after a couple of years.  Make your entry door extra wide and tall, and if possible an exit door of same size.  Make sure the floor/pad is extra thick 7"+, and 3-5000 PSI rated with 7/8" or so rebar in the floor.  If you go concrete walls, then the foundation/footer needs to be over 18" deep everywhere, and especially if you want to have a lift/hoist or two, then reinforce that floor area before the concrete pour.  Make the walls high, at least 12' for lift with room for hood to be opened on vehicle.  Have a drain built into the floor in whatever area you plan on assembly or cleaning of parts or engines.  Make sure your electrical power source has adequate amperage available(over 200 amps) for multiple units running at once: AC, welder, compressor, etc..  I would also incorporate/build a "safe room" for tornado or emergency if possible with a sink/toilet.  In my current shop, I have half of it with a second story floor for storage, and I wish I had built the walls at least 14' high instead of 12'.  I keep a vehicle on my lift and park one under it.  Give yourself plenty of door opening room between stalls.  If you have room at the exit door, give yourself a large apron for parking and pressure washing undercarriage/engine blocks, portable sand blasting, etc.  Just some of my wishes for my next build.  If you decide to build a floor pit for oil changes, etc, then incorporate a built in floor safe/gun safe.   LOL, Joe-JDC

[My427stang]

Thanks guys, project will happen likely this summer.  Great info to kick off planning!

[HarleyJack17]

Have not built but have been quoting and comparing for a year....
What I found is there is not a massive difference, cost wise, of stick, pole, or steel.  The only thing to be aware of on metal buildings is the type. There are a lot of cheaper ones on the market today, they are cheaper for a reason. For a home hobby type they may work fine but for heavy use, possible overhead lift etc. you need a quality red-iron building.
The largest cost changer I found was on the slab.  Footers will close to double the concrete cost.  Not sure on your area but you may could get away with piers vs linear footings.
Like others said, plan ahead and write it down....otherwise come build time it will cost you 2x more than had you nailed it down on the front end....one of my biggest complaints on building our house a couple of years ago.  Good luck, and no matter how big you build it, it will not be big enough...remember that!

[Falcon67]

It is really hard to beat a metal building.
My 30x50 cost 20k installed, insulated, and with concrete etc.

Best bet is to call a local contractor and see what prices are.

They are also a problem to heat and cool.  Depending on your climate, metal will sweat like crazy.  And if you plan to work in there a lot and condition the space, lots of time you wind up building insulated walls inside of walls which increases your cost well over the always attractive raw building package. 

I would not build concrete or concrete block walls - again, if you plan to hobby in there you'll be adding 2x4 studs internal with insulation. Concrete is cold and will also sweat in certain conditions, especially if warm air is contained inside when the outside goes real cold.  Without some sealing and insulation to keep the warm air out of contact with the cold walls, they will condense moisture out of the air. 

Foundation is dependent on what is required in your area and the type of building going up.  12x12 footers are the norm here if you want even an accessory building to last.  Flat work for a decent shop is not recommended.  A larger building will demand more of the foundation and as everyone knows - if the foundation isn't right, the rest of it will be trouble.  Your specific area may vary.  Yes, your slab can easily be 2~3x the cost of the building depending on size.  Depending on requirements you could be anywhere from $8 to $20+ sq/ft. 

I personally prefer stick built because all your cost and environment control is part of the shell construction and not something you add on later.  I get to work in a climate controlled 24x40 shop that we brought in for $16 sq/ft total.  Only thing farmed out was the foundation.  That may not be your thing - if you plan to contract, hang on to your wallet.

My recommendation would be to create an account at https://www.garagejournal.com/  - access The Forum and start reviewing builds in the Garage Gallery.  There are hundreds.  You can also review lots of threads on the same subject you are posting here.  Lots of small - and huge - shops out there in the world. 

>I spent 1/2 of my life in old school shops that you had very little concern of where welding, grinding etc went,
I weld, grind, etc in a building with OSB walls.  It's not an issue.  If you have concerns, you can cover the walls in your welding area with Hardipanel or concrete backer board if you think you need it. 

[64PI]

My shop is a 40' x 40' metal Quonset hut that was on the property when I bought my house. 8 inches of concrete and 200 amp service. the 2 vertical wall ends I have studded with 2"x 6" lumber and insulated with R19. The round portion of the Hut I'm insulating with 1" thick foam board the bends to the contour. Using 5/16" coupler nuts and short bolts with fender washers to hold the insulation in place. HVAC tape over the seams. My shop is heated and has no issues with sweating. I plan on adding onto the building in the future. I will do a concrete pad, 3 courses of 10" block and 2"x 6" walls on top of that. Stud walls are easier to insulate and makes hanging stuff on the walls a lot easier than a metal building. You can cut, grind and weld all you want with OSB walls. I usually hang out for a half hour or so after any hot work before I shut the shop down.

Fred

[Drew Pojedinec]

Chris, I live in South Ga so about the same climate as you.
Sweating walls does NOT happen if the sheet is factory insulated.
It was literally $300, and worth every penny. Coming from the greenhouse industry, I was keenly aware of this issue and made my desires clear to the builder.

If I ever built another shop, I would do it exactly the same, but I would build larger so I could frame in an abrasives room with a fan drawing air out, a storage room, and a clean room.  Those last two, would be climate controlled with a dehumidifier. 
I can’t explain the frustration of assembling 30+ carbs a month without a clean room.

[Joe-JDC]

You specifically asked about concrete or metal, but my current shop is 2x8x12' studs stick built on 24" centers, and R-33 insulated, with brick outside matching my home(HOA requirement).  Easy to heat and AC.  My only issue is occasionally I need the ability to hoist something and a steel beam overhead would be a blessing.  The 12' walls are a necessity with the lift.  Joe-JDC

[TripleJ]

Check out Miracle Truss  https://miracletruss.com/ steel buildings. they use steel roof and walls with 2x6 wood studs in the roof and walls
so it is easy insulate . I build a 48x30 with a full foundation and radiant heat. You can also use sonotubes and float the floor.

[Falcon67]

Chris, I live in South Ga so about the same climate as you.
Sweating walls does NOT happen if the sheet is factory insulated.

We're a lot dryer here than S. GA.  They do sweat in south Texas and will here during rapid temp changes we sometimes get in north/western Texas.  I've seen - before insulation - my Hardipanel walls sweat inside if we get a cold front while the inside is still warm.  With proper insulation and minimization of air infiltration in the wall, they will not sweat.  My experience with metal buildings is like giant garage doors - without some sort of insulation they are cold/hot as hell and radiate those temps into the interior such that massive oversized conditioning systems are required.  Most people end up insulating for sure if it used for more than just equipment storage.  I would only say that the insulation typically used on metal is not going to be ever as good as sealed stud walls with filled cavities.  But any effort to insulate is good.  Concrete/cinder block would be my last choice for wall material.  If going with concrete/etc - look into CMU wall construction. 

>I can’t explain the frustration of assembling 30+ carbs a month without a clean room.
Why my shop is divided into a work/parking area and a "tool room" setup. 


>The 12' walls are a necessity with the lift.  Joe-JDC

Haha, no they are not, not when you built the building and are not afraid to take an axe to it 



Then some rework of the ceiling later...

[Drew Pojedinec]

Awesome setup.

Love to tool room. Next move, that is gonna happen.

[bigbadblue]

 Your Nebraska weather would be similar to ours in Iowa. Below zero last night. So I would highly recommend in floor heat. Hear it all the time from people that are so glad they did. No sweating, easy to heat, comfortable, dry, snow melts and evaporates. Percent of people that use in floor in their new houses/garages/shops is over 80%, the rest wish they would have. Now that is with a second source of heat. But once you have the floor warm the rest is a matter of adjusting to comfort.
 If nothing else at least insulate your slab. 1-2" blue board. Besides insulation it cushions your concrete minimizing cracking.  When I say warm I don't mean more than 70 Degrees that is to warm, your feet don't like warm. But you can kick it up for painting. My shop heats with just a little overhead heater. Steel building 6" studs R19 and sheetrock.  Good Luck.