Frame Rivet Replacement

[urchinhead]

FE era Ford trucks have large 1/2” solid steel rivets on the frame. One of the leaf spring brackets in my truck bloated between the perch and frame during the factory install and pushed the lower bracket 1/8” away from the frame, and there is some resulting wear at the opposing shackle mount.

I was able to remove the original rivet and find replacements, but not the air hammer setting bit for this size. Has anyone replaced these, and should I plan on making my own die?

[cammerfe]

I think I'd use a button-head bolt oriented so the nut/thread side has clearance.

KS

[urchinhead]

A carriage bolt would work, but I was hoping to figure out what it would take to make a factory style attachment, and also learn something new. It looks like the Model A guys heat up rivets with an oxyacetylene torch and then peen them over with a special sized air bit and bucking bar on the back side. 1/2” is larger than what most places stick for bits.

[cammerfe]

As I understand it, rivets must be at least dull red to upset properly. A bucking bar for back-up and an air hammer with a special bit to match the rivet size is also required.

KS

[427mach1]

Are you sure you want to try this at home?   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn1m1egXY5I

[Heo]

This guy even makes his own rivets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBctd88yzPw

  I cheat and just make the tool for the air hammer
in the late. I drill with a center drill then i take a tungsten file for the die grinder,
 with the right radius put it in the drillchuck in the lathe and
drill the radius with that

[wcbrowning]

Very cool!  Thanks for sharing that!

This guy even makes his own rivets

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBctd88yzPw

  I cheat and just make the tool for the air hammer
in the late. I drill with a center drill then i take a tungsten file for the die grinder,
 with the right radius put it in the drillchuck in the lathe and
drill the radius with that

[urchinhead]

Are you sure you want to try this at home?   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn1m1egXY5I

That is exactly what I want to do at home!

I ordered some rivets from Big Flats Rivet Co., but I have not been able to find a driver for the large 1/2” rivets in the frame. Please let me know if anyone has a lead, and thanks for your videos.

[RustyCrankshaft]

I bought a 1/2" and 3/4" ductile set and bucking bar from US Tool a few years ago when my home turned ones finally wore out. They're online catalog is terrible, I had to call them to get what I wanted. NOt sure they still offer them in the size you'll need, but they probably do if you call.

https://www.ustool.com/riveting-tools/accessories.html

[urchinhead]

I bought a 1/2" and 3/4" ductile set and bucking bar from US Tool a few years ago when my home turned ones finally wore out. They're online catalog is terrible, I had to call them to get what I wanted. NOt sure they still offer them in the size you'll need, but they probably do if you call.

https://www.ustool.com/riveting-tools/accessories.html

Right on. I will call them this afternoon. I did find a supplier that sells the larger driver for a 1/2” rivet, but it requires a larger shank tool (1.217”) such as Chicago Pneumatic CP60 or similar.

[RustyCrankshaft]

Hopefully they get you set up.

It won't look factory, but having stretched and shortened a LOT of big truck frames, it's acceptable to replace those rivets with bolts. They should be grade 8 min, and I always use flanged head with no washers. Never had a problem, even on triple and quad frame off-road trucks.

The Ford uppfitters manual actually states that if you weld within (varies depending on vintage) 1" of the rivet that it has to be driven out and replace with a bolt before the weld heat will relax the fit.

[urchinhead]

Apparently they don’t employ techs that can help you over the phone at U.S. Tool, but I can email. I also found another source, so I will keep everyone posted. Now I just have to figure out the best way to heat the rivet.

I guess I’ll also have to buy a lathe, just not now.

[Heo]

Apparently they don’t employ techs that can help you over the phone at U.S. Tool, but I can email. I also found another source, so I will keep everyone posted. Now I just have to figure out the best way to heat the rivet.

I guess I’ll also have to buy a lathe, just not now.

Without a lathe i would be handicaped. I think it is the machine
i would chose if i had the option to only have one machine

[urchinhead]

Hopefully they get you set up.

It won't look factory, but having stretched and shortened a LOT of big truck frames, it's acceptable to replace those rivets with bolts. They should be grade 8 min, and I always use flanged head with no washers. Never had a problem, even on triple and quad frame off-road trucks.

The Ford uppfitters manual actually states that if you weld within (varies depending on vintage) 1" of the rivet that it has to be driven out and replace with a bolt before the weld heat will relax the fit.

Any recommendations on the bucking bar shape for the already formed head of the rivet? I don’t want to flatten out a round/button head if I can avoid it.

[RustyCrankshaft]

To make it look as close to factory as you can get it, depending on what you come up with for tools, anything with round shape should get you close and you can chase it from there. You'll just have to see what you can find for tools off the shelf. Otherwise you'll need to do some lathe work. Could make your own out of some H13 as it air hardens pretty well, or H11 which would probably also do the trick.

I agree Heo, a lathe is a pretty versatile machine if you had to be limited to one machine.