Author Topic: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.  (Read 2014 times)

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67428GT500

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Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« on: October 10, 2019, 12:36:13 AM »
After a few bugs I think much has been worked out.  I had a new Mr. Gasket 180 degree thermostat stick in the open position. I replaced it with a Robert Shaw 180. Immediate change in temperatures, but still running warmer than it was previously.
The alternator is a dual belt unit. When I put the new Marti belts on they have the Ford white ink printed numbers on them. I lined up the printed information on both belts when they were installed. When I checked the under the hood post my drive with the new thermostat I noted the belts were no longer lined up. That was proof that the belts were slipping.  The NOS ford temperature sending unit had arrived as well.
I loosened the alternator back up, lined up the belts and made sure to use a pry bar to apply more tension on the belts.

I removed the distributor cap, sat it on top of the front carburetor  and pushed a rag in around the distributor to retain any coolant that may come out of the intake when I removed the temperature sender to replace with the NOS Ford. I noted a huge amount of air was vented and very little coolant. Of course I was quick trying to keep down the mess.
I didn't loose enough to justify adding coolant. I went for a 15 mile drive. The vehicle ran at about 1/4-3/8 of the gauge the entire time.

My presumption would be that there was air in the cross over in the intake to the heads and that the belts were slipping under load which would have impaired water pump and alternator function.

Hopefully this will address the hot running engine.
                                                                                      -Keith
« Last Edit: October 10, 2019, 01:07:07 AM by 67428GT500 »

My427stang

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2019, 07:14:56 AM »
Sounds like it's fixed, but if the belts walk on you again, don't keep pulling on them, just a good way to take out alternator and water pump bearings

We used to have to buy matched sets of belts in the old days, somewhere that stopped.  I like to think that it was because manufacturing got better, but it could be that the demand is low and nobody cares.   All it takes is a little different length of belt and/or a little wear on whatever pulley had a tighter belt in it's long life to slightly change belt speed and they can walk.  It likely adds a a little wear to the belt, but not enough at the miles we put on these cars

The thermostat alone likely made the most difference, if stuck open, who knows what it was really doing when hot, might not have been fully open.

Glad to hear it's running well
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

Chrisss31

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2019, 08:11:53 AM »
We have equipment here at the shop with a 4,5,6 groove pully.  It was explained to me that when they make belts they are made in one big sheet and cut apart into individual belts.  If you buy matched sets they are just belts that were consecutive numbers on that big sheet.  If you look at the numbers after the part number and get some that are close together it helps.  Of course a specialty belt place will have a bunch to pick through.

Heo

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2019, 10:37:08 AM »
When i want matched sets of belts i go to the company that
service industrial AC and Refrigerators. They have matched
sets and are much cheaper to. Some times i get them for free
or  they tell me to drop by with a bag of cinemon rolls or such



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

My427stang

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2019, 11:25:34 AM »
Additionally, how you tighten can make a difference too, pry bar on the alternator housing will cock the alternator within the tolerances as you pull on it.  Where I can, I now use a big adjustable wrench on the alternator where the adjustment bolt is, more secure and closer to the belts.  Not perfect, but better
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

67428GT500

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2019, 11:52:02 AM »
The heater hoses run on top of the fuel log. I have been getting a little bit of raw fuel smell, which I thought may be the fuel percolating in the fuel log with heat being transferred to the fuel log from the heater hoses that run along the top. Drew did my carbs and they run great. I am just trying to eliminate a few bugs.
I saw the insulator sleeves on Summit's website but I don't want to run something silver that looks like it came off the space shuttle. I did fine one with velcro I could remove for shows after driving there I guess.
Any ideas are welcome.
                                                                                       -Keith

                                 
« Last Edit: October 15, 2019, 10:42:29 PM by 67428GT500 »

67428GT500

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2019, 11:54:51 AM »
Remember I have a lot of chrome plating. I have to be careful how I adjust them so I don't mar the finishes. The power steering pump was a real pain in the posterior to adjust.

                                                                                                                     -Keith
« Last Edit: October 15, 2019, 11:14:49 PM by 67428GT500 »

fryedaddy

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2019, 02:32:48 PM »
After a few bugs I think much has been worked out.  I had a new Mr. Gasket 180 degree thermostat stick in the open position. I replaced it with a Robert Shaw 180. Immediate change in temperatures, but still running warmer than it was previously.
The alternator is a dual belt unit. When I put the new Marti belts on they have the Ford white ink printed numbers on them. I lined up the printed information on both belts when they were installed. When I checked the under the hood post my drive with the new thermostat I noted the belts were no longer lined up. That was proof that the belts were slipping.  The NOS ford temperature sending unit had arrived as well.
I loosened the alternator back up, lined up the belts and made sure to use a pry bar to apply more tension on the belts.

I removed the distributor cap, sat it on top of the front carburetor  and pushed a rag in around the distributor to retain any coolant that may come out of the intake when I removed the temperature sender to replace with the NOS Ford. I noted a huge amount of air was vented and very little coolant. Of course I was quick trying to keep down the mess.
I didn't loose enough to justify adding coolant. I went for a 15 mile drive. The vehicle ran at about 1/4-3/8 of the gauge the entire time.

My presumption would be that there was air in the cross over in the intake to the heads and that the belts were slipping under load which would have impaired water pump and alternator function.

Hopefully this will address the hot running engine.
                                                                                      -Keith
i have a new mr gasket 180 stuck in the open position right now.i wonder how often this happens
1966 comet caliente 428 4 speed owned since 1983                                                 1973 f250 ranger xlt 360 4 speed papaw bought new

67428GT500

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Re: Hot running engine.... Seems to be resolved.
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2019, 09:19:55 PM »
After a few bugs I think much has been worked out.  I had a new Mr. Gasket 180 degree thermostat stick in the open position. I replaced it with a Robert Shaw 180. Immediate change in temperatures, but still running warmer than it was previously.
The alternator is a dual belt unit. When I put the new Marti belts on they have the Ford white ink printed numbers on them. I lined up the printed information on both belts when they were installed. When I checked the under the hood post my drive with the new thermostat I noted the belts were no longer lined up. That was proof that the belts were slipping.  The NOS ford temperature sending unit had arrived as well.
I loosened the alternator back up, lined up the belts and made sure to use a pry bar to apply more tension on the belts.

I removed the distributor cap, sat it on top of the front carburetor  and pushed a rag in around the distributor to retain any coolant that may come out of the intake when I removed the temperature sender to replace with the NOS Ford. I noted a huge amount of air was vented and very little coolant. Of course I was quick trying to keep down the mess.
I didn't loose enough to justify adding coolant. I went for a 15 mile drive. The vehicle ran at about 1/4-3/8 of the gauge the entire time.

My presumption would be that there was air in the cross over in the intake to the heads and that the belts were slipping under load which would have impaired water pump and alternator function.

Hopefully this will address the hot running engine.
                                                                                      -Keith
i have a new mr gasket 180 stuck in the open position right now.i wonder how often this happens

I found several in reading different forums and even on the Summit feedback forum. I bought the genuine Robert Shaw unit this time.
I also was using a Napa temp sender. I found an NOS Ford unit in the box went that route. It also reads lower than the Napa unit.
However, with that said I found and fixed three issues at once. Belts loose, thermostat..