FE distributor

[fekbmax]

Who makes a good distributor at a reasonable price ? I need a good bullet housing with a quality cap and rotor but that's it. Need a crank trigger distributor and I sure dont want to spend 3 to 4 hundred bucks on a dizzy just to gut it out and lock up the shaft.
Been kinda thinking about a front mount belt driven unit and if I had to pay $350.oo for a dizzy to gut I'll just get.the belt driven unit offs my buddies small block and just fab me a mount. Sucks MSD dont make a.crank trigger dizzy for the FE any longer.

[gregaba]

Why not use a stock one? It would be cheap and you can find them every where.
Greg

[Nightmist66]

Are you running a dry sump? If not, you will still need a stub shaft to turn the oil pump....

[fekbmax]

Why not use a stock one? It would be cheap and you can find them every where.
Greg

Worn shaft, bushings, worn pump shaft register, deflection,  ect. Not intrested in useing a 50 year old part . Sure I could replace the bushings and what not but with a Wet sump system at 7700 rpm I'm not looking to spin another oil pump shaft inside a worn out dizzy shaft. Been there, done that.

[gregaba]

That sounds like a good reason to me.
Greg

[BattlestarGalactic]

What about a "new" one from local parts store?  For mid 70's truck.  Should be Duraspark and all new parts(chinesium).

[Falcon67]

I'm running a stocker Duraspark base in my 351C door car - breaker plate locked, MSD pickup, big cap/rotor.  No mods to the body, 6500~7000 for years now.  Timing perfect, big moly pump drive and no issues with that either.  I run a crank trigger on the dragster - if the MSD distributor on that died, I'd yank the home made unit out of the door car in an instant and not think about it.  I keep a drilled old Ford big cap that I use to set the rotor index with the crank trigger.  I run a similar unit on the 302 using a small AMC 304 cap to clear the tunnel ram, been running that one for several years.  You built an FE that can run to 7700 but you'd like to cheap out when it comes to the distributor?  If you're worried about 50 year old units, spend the $ on a new unit or do the extra fab and hoop jumping to run the belt drive.

[fekbmax]

First off although I am a cheap bastard , the intention to "cheap out" on a distributor was never my intention.  I was merely asking what the best option was for a bullet dizzy with decent quality shaft and such that I could strip out for a crank trigger ignition.  If cheeping out because I don't wanna buy a $400.oo + MSD or such only to strip out $250.oo of components I don't need and will never use then so be it. I'm not beyond using a new factory style dizzy and if I can find a source for a small cap 361/391 dizzy then I'd go with that and benefit from the larger oil pump shaft. Yes, I know the shaft hole is larger, got that covered, already have a bushing in my block as it is so I could knock it out. Yes I know the oil pump drive socket would need to be bigger, I have a p0p oil pump for the bigger shaft and a p0p drive shaft as well. I was just asking cause I thought maybe someone knew right off hand of a decent brand dizzy maybe closer to $200.oo that would be a good candidate for stripping and locking out. Shoulda just did the research and never ask. I got it under control though.  I could prob get that Jessel belt drive from my buddy for a couple hundred bucks, the fab, time, and hoop jumping cost me nothing, I enjoy making stuff (as some of you may know). Thanks for all the input. I'll think twice before asking stupid questions again. Hey,,, Maybe since I'm such a cheap bastard I'll pop for one of those $50.oo pro comp units, they sure are purrrdy... 

[Falcon67]

Apologize for coming off snarky - wasn't my intent, but there it is.   

If you want a small "HEI" cap type deal and an FE distributor uses a 12127 part code base, look up a AMC 304.  There is a "HEI" style cap for those and since AMC used Autolite distributor bases, it fits. 


My real point is that I run a lot of rounds - a lot.  Got both slow cars and a really fast one.  Running either the MSD base or a older Ford part as a base unit has not been an issue.  All my Cleveland based engines run HV pumps and I have not noted any excessive wear issues on either the drive shafts nor the hex bore in the distributor.  You could easily save big $$ using a decent 12127 base from a Duraspark unit and removing the guts to reduce internal inertia. 

Granted, the belt drive unit will look much cooler on the motor.   

[fekbmax]

Apologize for coming off snarky - wasn't my intent, but there it is.   

If you want a small "HEI" cap type deal and an FE distributor uses a 12127 part code base, look up a AMC 304.  There is a "HEI" style cap for those and since AMC used Autolite distributor bases, it fits. 


My real point is that I run a lot of rounds - a lot.  Got both slow cars and a really fast one.  Running either the MSD base or a older Ford part as a base unit has not been an issue.  All my Cleveland based engines run HV pumps and I have not noted any excessive wear issues on either the drive shafts nor the hex bore in the distributor.  You could easily save big $$ using a decent 12127 base from a Duraspark unit and removing the guts to reduce internal inertia. 

Granted, the belt drive unit will look much cooler on the motor.   

What rotor would I use with that setup ? Duraspark small cap rotor or the AMC 304 rotor? Wouldn't happen to have a part number for the rotor would you so I dont haveta get in a huge debate with the parts counter guy.

[fe-starliner]

+1 on the 304 AMC cap and rotor.  It's something I could also use.  Did an extensive search of internet auto parts outlets, Summit, Jeg's, etc. and nothing like the small cap, male connectors could be found.  Where did you buy yours?

[gdaddy01]

parts counter guy can not find it , if you do not have make , model and year , I like to watch their head spin when asking for stuff that I need working on my junk .