Anyone proficent with 1967 Mustang power disc brakes?

[Falcon67]

I thought about something else. The brake hoses aren't U.S. made. I ran into an issue years ago that when the manufacturer crimped the hose they all but closed the hose off. The fact that the pistons are all the way in the bore and there was about .010 clearance. I also considered that there isn't enough room for fluid to apply enough pressure. I am good with brakes and have never had this kind of issue. At the end of the day it's going to be something so simple it's stupid.                                                                      -Keith

Room for fluid isn't an issue unless the piston(s) are blocking the feed port.  It's all about MC piston area vs wheel piston size.  FWIW - I use single piston "Granada" swap disks on both the Mustang and the Falcon (3250 lbs race weight).  These are manual disk/drum, 10x2 read drums, organic pads.  Stops fine street or strip.  I at one time tried metallic embedded front disks, they wouldn't stop for shit nor hold the car in the burnout box.  They are still in a box in the shed somewhere, brand new, 20 years later.  I put the disks on the car in 1995 and have yet to change pads, been running every other week plus street since then.

[e philpott]

Maybe a bad set of brake pads ? My shop sometimes runs into bad pads or glazed pads when all else checks good but hard to stop and requires lots of pedal effort  . Just had a Trailblazer in here for hard to stop and extra pedal effort that ended up being a glazed set of pads that were overheated at some point , had a Dakota in here several months ago for hard to stop and back brakes locking up almost every stop that a new set of rear brake shoes fixed

just a thought

[Falcon67]

Good point - made me remember back when I had my 79 T/A.  I spent a lot of time pulling the "performance" pads off the car and buffing the surface with a 60 grit flap wheel to bust the glaze off.  Can't imagine why I spent so much time keeping the brakes up to snuff... 

[67428GT500]

At some point as much as I don't want to screw with it being it's a real Shelby I may just go to Wilwoods on the front. Hawk pads are 135.00. I know the ceramics on my other vehicle have to warm up before they get grabby. I even have over-sized rear drums with an 11X 2.75 shoe. Aggravating to say the least being I didn't skimp on anything.
                                                                                          -Keith

[plovett]

When I converted my '67 Cougar from manual four wheel drums to manual front discs, I consciously went with a 68 setup.  I wanted the simpler and cheaper single piston setup.  I got a factory front disc setup off of a '68 Cougar and put it on. 

I used a Ford Maverick manual front disc master cylinder.  For me, it works perfectly.

paulie

[machoneman]

"I am also running Hawk pads."

Well, even Hawk makes many a pad.

I'd try as others have noted another pad. I also have some killer pads in a box for my 12.75" rotor'ed Baer Racing fronts on my '70 Stang that ONLY work on a track after heating up. For my mostly street driving, a softer set work great.   

[67428GT500]

These were a problem out of the box. They were too thick so I had to actually remove .080 to slide them into the caliper. I checked disc thickness to make sure the NOS rotors weren't out of spec. They are even correct. I called Hawk and they jerked me around because I had them sitting here for 12 months while I was reassembling the shell.
                                                                                  -Keith

[e philpott]

Remove another.080 and see if it helps . You need some gap to have some fluid volume between caliper and pistons or they won’t have a chance to build pressure... or ... get some pads that fit correctly

[Falcon67]

FWIW - run Strange Soft Metallic pads on the rear of the dragster (no fronts of course) and haven't had any stopping issues or glazing.  And I get hard on the brakes after the finish line. That is the recommended pad for under 150 MPH.  The system is a manual MC with single 4 piston S series calipers on the rear - stopping 1660 lbs from around 125 MPH. Might try shopping for a similar type of pad. 

[67428GT500]

I bought the SSBC kit to test the system. A 50.00 tool I'll probably use once. I have it if I need it at this juncture.

[Falcon67]

If you need it, once is more than enough.  Proper tool aids diagnosis, leading to a proper repair.  Besides, who doesn't want another tool.  I have a nice tool for getting the rockers out from under the cam on the 2.3L Pinto/Mustang motors.  No 2.3L motors in sight around here, but - you never know when I might need it again. 

[TomP]

The cheapest parts store pads are usually the softest and those stop best, just wear out quicker.

The hard pads are also hard on rotors and you need to be hard on the pedal to stop unless you are road racing where you use the brakes often. The rotors will not get hot in normal driving unless you are hard on the brakes a lot of live in the hills.

But as for what difference it makes a local 90 year old Mary Kay lady still drives the pink 60 Caddy she got for being tops in sales back then. She lives on an island with a wooden bridge with a stop sign at the end and was teriefied ater having the brakes done at a shop and the car skidded so easily.
 I drove it and could no believe that huge boat could put me in the windshield at 70mph even with the booster unplugged. With just a light touch on the pedal. A normal stop just skids.

 Another elderly lady to the rescue at DV Aldous, a brake place that had been there forever. She knew her stuff. "The shoes are too soft, we can reline them with harder material. Those huge Caddy brake shoes are not available in a wide selection of compounds at parts stores."
 I put the harder relined shoes on and what a difference. Now it takes a ten pound push to stop normally where it took a 2 ounce push before.

[67428GT500]

POst purchase of the SSBC pressure tool I have about 400lbs of pressure. That won't get it done. It should be at least 1200lbs at a minimum.
I'm leaning towards a bad new NAPA brake master.
                                                                               -Keith

[fryedaddy]

it might not have nothing to do with your problem but i recently bought 4 new flexible brake lines.the ones at the wheels and 1 was blocked off inside and 1 more was barely able to drip.i had to take them back and swap them.

[Falcon67]

POst purchase of the SSBC pressure tool I have about 400lbs of pressure. That won't get it done. It should be at least 1200lbs at a minimum.
I'm leaning towards a bad new NAPA brake master.
                                                                               -Keith

What's the bore on that MC?  You may have to shop for a MC with a smaller bore.  like in the 15/16" or a hair smaller.  MCs like a 1" or 1.125 will give a high pedal and low pressure.