FE Bearings. What is the best current choice?

[67428GT500]

Are most still running the Tri-metal Clevites? Or has something come out to replace them? I don't know much about King bearing and the aluminum materials.

                                                                                    -Keith

[blykins]

I use a lot of Federal Mogul bearings (125M, etc) on FE main journals.  I use some Kings as well if the situation dictates it.  Factory FE rod bearings will usually be FM. 

Working on a sled pulling FE right now and sent a set of FM 125M main bearings to Calico to be coated.

For aftermarket blocks, I’ll use FM or Clevite main bearings and usually FM or Clevite rod bearings.

[Barry_R]

Primarily F-M race stuff here, with Clevite as the fall back product.

[jayb]

I like Federal Mogul 125M for the mains, and Clevite CB-743 for the rods on stroker cranks with the BBC rod journals.

[67428GT500]

My follow up query: Who has the bearings? Summit offerings are limited and I see none on Evilbay. I need .020 rods and mains.

                                                                                                                          -Keith

[blykins]

The 125 bearings are not offered in a .020”.

You can run the King bearings.

[67428GT500]

Okay.... Which King bearing?

[turbohunter]

I’m going to take a shot at this because it’s an area I don’t fully understand also.
I am not an expert. Trying to learn.
Since the op has a .020 under crank he needs an OVERsize bearing???
So in the Summit catalog?
 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kgb-mb559am020/overview/make/ford
I did a search for a bearing for a .020 under crank.
Feel free to criticize and or inform.

[blykins]

That’s the correct part number.

If you wanted to run a race bearing, you’d have to run a .020” Cleveland bearing like a 146M20 or a Clevite MS1010H20, but you’d have to grind the tangs off.

[67428GT500]

Yes, I was in the Summit catalog. There were no performance listings in .020. They are called undersize because the crank is undersized.
I looked for the FM, Clevite or other bearings with coatings. I didn't see any. I know many don't like aluminum based bearings.
I had a cylinder wall crack for a second time on a 400 mile engine. I'm done with the block and I don't want to remove the engine from my Shelby again when this is done.  Clevites are readily available in the tri-metal P bearing.  I there is something better, I want to use it when I reassemble the bottom end.
I already bought the JE pistons this go around. Strangely, they didn't list a recommended piston to cylinder clearance either.

                                                                                                                -Keith
                                                                         

[turbohunter]

Welcome to my cracked block world.
Or me to yours, or something.

[67428GT500]

Hopefully, this will be my last go. I have never had an issue of this nature with any build. I have no idea who is particularly competent in the greater Dallas-Ft Worth area as far as a machinist.
                                                                                     -Keith

[turbohunter]

From what the local guys here tell me, it just happens sometimes even though you have them do all the right checks.
Although I’ve never heard of our forum hero’s having a problem.

[jayb]

From what the local guys here tell me, it just happens sometimes even though you have them do all the right checks.
Although I’ve never heard of our forum hero’s having a problem.

Most people are too ashamed to admit it LOL!  Seriously, a cracked block can be a difficult thing to find.  Sometimes they will even pass a pressure test when cold, then open up and leak when they are warm.  I had an aluminum block that did that; had to tear it completely down, and heated the freaking thing up with a space heater before the pressure check showed the leak.  It was BEHIND one of the iron sleeves in the block.  I pulled the sleeve and then I could see it.  When the engine warmed up the aluminum would expand, a leak path from the crack in the block would form behind the sleeve, and water would drip past the sleeve and into the crankcase.  Drove me nuts trying to find it.  I bought the block brand new, so I wasn't figuring I'd have a problem.  Silly me 

[Rory428]

I guess I`m not up on all the greatest and latest pieces available for FE engines, but I have had pretty good success with plain old Clevite "77" rod and main bearings (yeah, the fully grooved mains with the big oil holes on both 1/2s). Used them on my F350s stock 390, stock and street strip 428 CJs, as well as the FEs in my Fairmont for 3 decades.